homemade bypass filter

SparkandFire

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When I worked on big-rigs, some of them had a "luber-finer" set up. It was a big chrome canister off to the drivers side, and had a large, wet element inside. Those trucks seemed to always have cleaner looking oil than the ones with only the factory setup.

I agree, there has to be a cheaper way to do this than with a amsoil kit?
 

pybyr

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If you convert to an electric fuel pump, the block-off plate makes an excellent place to mount a return line.

Very interesting-- of course also, if one is running a bypass that doesn't need gravity drain for its output (and to my knowledge, only the centrifuges do), you could send oil back in other places, higher up (such as the oil fill tube or the opening on the front of the IP drive cover). My IH/Ford 7.3 engine manual depicts a pipe plug in the rear of the driver's side cylinder head for "bypass oil return." Between that and the 1/2 port on the oil filter mount boss denoted as bypass supply, it's clear that IH was envisioning bypass filtration as a possibility.
 

emmer

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Very interesting-- of course also, if one is running a bypass that doesn't need gravity drain for its output (and to my knowledge, only the centrifuges do), you could send oil back in other places, higher up (such as the oil fill tube or the opening on the front of the IP drive cover). My IH/Ford 7.3 engine manual depicts a pipe plug in the rear of the driver's side cylinder head for "bypass oil return." Between that and the 1/2 port on the oil filter mount boss denoted as bypass supply, it's clear that IH was envisioning bypass filtration as a possibility.

Excellent! I found that there is a filter (Baldwin B50 By-Pass Lube Filter ) that includes the neccasary flow control orifice. It runs about 6 bucks!

Baldwin Mount - OB1305
Filters - B50 (5 3/8"), B164 (7 1/8") ;Sweet
 
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RLDSL

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If you guys want, I can save you a stink pot of money on the Amsoil single bypass filter setup. You don't buy the whole kit, that setup is costy, and it doesn't come with enough hose to do a truck anyway, you just get the filter head by itself and a filter element and get the hose at a local hose shop, some oil rated hose with JIC fittings , a fitting for the oil feed above the main filter and a weld up fitting for the return and you'll save a fortune. I can hook you up if you want. THat is the setup I run on my own truck, I'm not going to waste money on a big fancy setup with parts I don't need. I've been using and selling Synthetic oil for over 25 years, probably longer than most folks have even known they exist ( heck, longer than a lot of the folks on this list have existed :rotflmao I've installed more bypass systems than I can remember. No sense in going crazy on the things, Get by as cheap as possible but still use the best possible filters ;Sweet
 

emmer

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Thanks, thats very kind but I'm afriad the shipping cost to Canada would kill me :(

How much is the filter and the head?

thx :)
 

RLDSL

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Thanks, thats very kind but I'm afriad the shipping cost to Canada would kill me :(

How much is the filter and the head?

thx :)

It's nuts, the US price for the kit for the single remote bypass is $191 and the last time I bought just the head it was around $18
Check your ***
 

04_6.0

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Good find emmer! Do you know the Micron rating for those filters?
RLDSL how much can you get the filter and housing for?
 

emmer

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The micron rating is 2 micron. The fram equiv is pb50 ......it also has the control orfice built in.

A filter head for a ph8A (standard (gas) ford oil filter) is about 33 bucks Canadian, so I'm hoping a filter head for the pb50 is about the same (still hunting)

I think the filter head/filter/hoses and fittings can be had for about $125 (not including taxes).

Keeping in mind that these hoses are not 1 wire hydralic, but just oil line rated for 200-250 psi.

I would say that this type of hose should be fine if the hoses are well guarded from rubbing against metal or exhaust manifolds.

Really, oil gets better with age. The only reason we have to change it, is because it gets dirty. Oil companies would love us to believe that we change oil because it wears out. ;)
 
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Bill-W

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I saw these 30 years ago on taxicabs in new york, they were at 300000 miles and counting, no oil changes, just take out the old toilet paper roll and put in the new one, plus a quart of oil, I have a filter at home and am going to install in my 1990 idi.
http://www.frantzoil.com/catalog.html

This thing is cool! Does anyone on here actually run one? If so how is it working out?

I love the simplicity of it! Just wonder what the wife would think when I tell her the truck needs an extra roll of tp! :rotflmao It would be real easy to pick up a replacement!

Also when you are running a bypass and doing extended drains do you still change the regular filter at 3k?
 

RLDSL

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The Frantz are actually a pretty decent unit. They do a good job of filtering but they are the most basic level of bypass filtration, but if it were a choice of that or nothing, I certainly wouldn't talk someone out of one, The things works well for a long time, then in the late 60's early 70's a handful of racers realized the TP wasn't quite enough, and they started stuffing the frantz housings with kotex to make use of compressed cotton batting for better filtration instead of the TP.( there was a precedent for this, the bypass section of mercedes diesel filters is made of cotton batting , for those who didn't know those bullet proof mercedes diesel engines that last forever have come with a factory 2 stage oil filter for years that consisted of a full flow and a bypass filter all in one drop in cartridge filter, which is the main reason for their longevity) One of those racers was one of the Unser boys( can't remember which one now, it's been a few years) and he's been using synthetics for a long time, even though it had some big oil company name on his hood ( heck, all those guys were running synthetics not made by the sponsors who's logos were all over their cars and uniforms, but the sponsors couldn't care less just so long as they were staying up front and keeping the cameras on them)and he helped develop the first bypass setup for Amsoil which came in a housing that looked like a frantz housing( or a small lubrifiner housing) but consisted of a drop in tp roll shaped cartridge of highly compressed cotton discs that was way more efficient than the TP roll filters. soon after that they went to the spin on filters rated for 2 micron and that will remove particles as small as one micron.
There you have it folks, consumer Bypass 101 in a nutshell.
All this was going on about the time these engines were rolling off the assembly line for the first time.
 

WrickM

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This is really great info. i would love to add a bypass as part of doing everything i can to extend the life of my already well traveled (nice way to say old lol) truck. A cheap bypass kit made for our trucks would be a nice item for the local board entrepreneurs!
 

RLDSL

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Also when you are running a bypass and doing extended drains do you still change the regular filter at 3k?

On my system I'm running the Amsoil bypass filter and a amsoil full flow filter , the PSD spec filter in the full flow position. I change the full flow filter about every 15000 miles or once a year and send in a sample. The full flow filter is rated for 25000 miles in this application, but I usually change it out early just for the heck of it . DO NOT try that with an off the shelf filter from a parts store, they are not rated for that kind of service life. About the only off the shelf oil filters you can get that you can extend your full flow change with is the Donaldson Endurance which will allow you to go up to twice as long as the OEM drain interval between filter changes
 

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