help with break problem

Pipeliner_86

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I never did like the RABS valve. I removed mine when I swapped out axles on my truck, made a world of difference. Now my truck stops on a dime, granted I no longer have abs, but that doesnt bother me any. The 35" meats under there grab real good. :Sly
 

1992-6.9

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Where is the RABS valve located and if i jjust unplug it will the pedal stay firm? I've done everyting else. OR do i have to bypass?
 

icanfixall

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My Rabs valve cost me $287.00 about 6 years ago. Boy did I take it in the shorts. I even took it apart and found nothing obviously wrong with it. -cuss
 

yARIC008

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This probably isn't it, but one thing to check is the brake lines going to the front brakes in the wheel wells. They are made of a flexible line so they can move around when you're turning the wheel. Alot of times they leak internally and cause this sort of thing, but they usually also create a pull on the wheel to one direction or the other when you brake because one caliper will recieve more braking force than the other. Anyways, it's worth a check. You can sometimes squeeze the brake line in your fingers and feel if there is brake fluid between the outter rubber hose and internal hard rubber piece that the fluid flows in.
 

Pipeliner_86

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1992-6.9 said:
Where is the RABS valve located and if i jjust unplug it will the pedal stay firm? I've done everyting else. OR do i have to bypass?


The RABS is mounted to the chassie of the truck above the rear axle. It has linkage going down to the rear axle. If you disconnect the brake lines at this valve and then remove the valve, you can put the brake lines back together with a tee fitting. This is how I bypassed mine.
 

Mont91

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Pipeliner_86 is refering to the mechanical anti lock valve that was used prior to the electronic Rear Antilock Brake System(RABS) starting in '88. RABS uses an electricaly controled valve that is located inside the frame rail on the drivers side about under the drivers feet or a little forward.
 

Pipeliner_86

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Mont91 said:
Pipeliner_86 is refering to the mechanical anti lock valve that was used prior to the electronic Rear Antilock Brake System(RABS) starting in '88. RABS uses an electricaly controled valve that is located inside the frame rail on the drivers side about under the drivers feet or a little forward.


That's right, if the trucks being discussed in this thread are newer than mine, and have an electronic system, my post probably won't help anyone.
I wasn't sure, so I posted my experiences with my truck.
 

Mr_Roboto

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Pipeliner_86 said:
I never did like the RABS valve. I removed mine when I swapped out axles on my truck, made a world of difference. Now my truck stops on a dime, granted I no longer have abs, but that doesnt bother me any. The 35" meats under there grab real good. :Sly

I used to have a 02 F350 with a 8' plow. The ABS just made it dangerous to drive with the plow on and wet roads. As soon as the rear wheels started locking up, the ABS released fluid pressure. Which meant no brakes and the pedal heading towards the floor. I personally would rather not have ABS on "real" trucks because the weight distribution changes so much.
 

sle2115

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Mr_Roboto said:
I used to have a 02 F350 with a 8' plow. The ABS just made it dangerous to drive with the plow on and wet roads. As soon as the rear wheels started locking up, the ABS released fluid pressure. Which meant no brakes and the pedal heading towards the floor. I personally would rather not have ABS on "real" trucks because the weight distribution changes so much.

And the weight distribution these things sucks to begin with! My truck as a stocker was very light in the rear and heavy in the front. I could spin the back tires at will once I went to 4.10's, but the tires were not real good. After going to the flatbed and duals, I get much more bite, now would like to have a locker/limited slip.
 

Mont91

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I believe if the RABS valve is bad and for verification, you have to build a piece of brake line that replaces the RABS valve and plug the relief line. Its kind of like cutting the converter out and replacing with a piece of pipe. Not that I have ever done this of course :rolleyes: .



I think the way to do this is to pick a spot that is easy to get to before and after the RABS valve, cut the line and splce in a new chunk of line. This might mean a foot or more line. I would have to crawl under the pickup and look. Either leave the valve in or take it out. Remember to plug the relief line.
 
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