Help- NO glow plug action, in the middle of a move!!!

[reklund]

Guys-
I'm in the middle of moving from Albuquerque to Las Vegas for my new job. I NEED my diesel to drag the trailer out there. The past week it's been really difficult to start, and I'm getting NO glow plug action that I can tell.

I took the time today to install 8 new Motorcraft glow plugs, and still get no action- the WTS light illuminates, but the voltmeter doesn't do it's usual dance. I've already packed my service manuals, and I'm pretty sure they're in Las Vegas, while I'm in Albuquerque this weekend.

I see in the owners manual that there are 2 fuseable links to the glow plugs, but I assume that those are good if the WTS light works. Is this correct?

I've run out of daylight and energy today, so I'll look again tomorrow and see if I can check for voltage at the main cable to the controller. If there is voltage there, and no voltage at the GP connectors, can I assume the controller is faulty?

If that is the case, I usually opt for only factory parts, but doubt I'll get one tomorrow. If I am forced to use NAPA parts, they offer 2- a $90 and a $290 version. Anyone have any experience with these?

Ryan

 

[Diesel JD]

Honestly since you're in a pinch, I might be tempted to wire the glow plugs for a momentary toggle until you get settled in your new place. My understanding is that with the solid state system like you have the fact that the glow plugs are on does not mean the light will illuminate and the fact that the light is on does not mean the plugs are getting juice. That blue wire actually controls the light. Most problems with the solid state system seem to be with the relay or a bad ground. I really don't know enough about it at a technical level to advise you how to check if the fusible links or relay might be bad, but I would expect your problem to be here. It's not unheard of for a controller to fail but it's not too common either the way it was on the 83-86. Like I say there are instructions here how to make even the SS sysem a momentary toggle. It probably is a $20 fix or less and then you can diagnose it properly when settled in you have your tools and manuals and the stress of the move is off of you. Be safe out there and good luck with it.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I see in the owners manual that there are 2 fuseable links to the glow plugs, but I assume that those are good if the WTS light works. Is this correct?

That assumption could be wrong tho - the WTS light is triggered by the controller, it has no direct relation to the plugs. Try measuring voltage at one of the plugs that's easily accessible (I think the front one on the driver side head is good for that purpose) while the WTS light is on, this will tell you if power is actually getting to the plugs...

 

[argve]

Check for voltage on the big lug of the solenoid that has the feed wires connected. These should be two yellow wires if I remember correctly (could be wrong) these will go to the battery via fusible links. If you have power on them, then check for a good solid ground for the controller. Both of these are common areas for failures.

One of the small wires on the solenoid is a triggered +12V and the other is a ground that if I remember correctly is controlled by the glow plug controller (again it's been years but for some reason this sticks in my mind).

Let us know what you got....

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Argve, you are correct on your wiring - two yellow (may look whitish by now) 10 gauge wires power up the relay, a thin red one is the key-on for both the relay and the controller, there's a thin white one the controller uses to ground the relay and energize the plugs, and there is also a black wire that grounds the controller to one of the intake manifold bolts IIRC. Here there be some pics:

 

[THECACKLER]

In a pinch I have connected a set of jumper cables to hot wire the GP's.
Red to Bat +,
Black to the lug that connects to the GP's themselves ( the zig-zag metal thing on the GPR ),
Then run the jumpers up over the cowl and into the cab by the vent window to where I can manually power the GP's from the driver's seat by connecting the ends together for a few seconds before and while cranking. 7 or 8 seconds max.

 

[icanfixall]

I'm thinking the main electrical connecter that runa all the engine electrical items may have some corrosion in it. This plug is on the passenger side of the motor on my 89 rig. Yours may be found on the drivers side fender too. Mine burned up those two large yellow wires that feed the power to the controller. Ford felt that two tiny wires were cheaper than one large wire. And when it gets reduced internally thru that large connecter... Well plenty of heat from resistance builds... Any crap or corrosion and it just can't maintain the power. I actually saw smoke billowing out frontunder the hood and cowl when mine went. I thought I burned up a starter. In a pinch you can run some 4 or 6 gauge speaker wire from the fender solenoid directly to the controller without a quick disconnecter like we have now. Then later on install a disconnect connester. Really the only time you need the connecter is when you remove the motor and even then I personally remove the engine wire harness first before the motor comes out. Hopefully this helps you out and gets you on the road... Safe trip and might see you in Vegas some time... Seems like we have several members living there... I need an excuse for a road trip.... Maybe a timing clinic in the future.....

 

[reklund]

Got it fixed guys- thanks for all the help!

Turns out I had a loose connection at the main power feed into the GPC. The large gauge wire terminal was loose on the stud, and all corroded. I removed it, cleaned it up with a brass brush, and reinstalled it properly. With the 8 new glow plugs, it fires right up!

The only casualty was a rubber CDR hose specific to my Aurora 2000 turbo kit. I'll call ATS Monday and hopefully be able to get one. For now, I made a new one out of some plumbing parts. I think I'll finally get around to painting and installing that ATS drivers side valve cover with the provision for the CDR mounting once I get to Vegas. Who makes the good neoprene valve cover gaskets? I have a set on there now, and can't remember where I got 'em years ago...

Right now, I still have the Banks IP cover adapter and a piece of heater hose running over to the CDR on the drivers side of the airbox. I had it just sorta sitting there, zip tied to the airbox, and the vibration caused the ATS adapter hose thing to crack.

It's always something....

I'm up for a meet in Vegas anytime. My Snap-On MT1480 is in storage in Albuquerque, but I could get it out there if it became necessary...

Ryan