Head gasket question

'94IDITurbo7.3

HAMMER DOWN!
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Posts
5,353
Reaction score
3
Location
Fowlerville Michigan
Ok, so i want to have ALL parts/gaskets before i even turn the first wrench on this.


I will need:


head studs/bolts
head gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
intake manifold gasket/valley pan
valve cover gaskets


is that all the gaskets i will need? what are good brands to get and were do you recommend i get them from?


i am going to pull the engine and fix my oil pan while i am there as well.


what kinds of engine hoists and stand are capable of holding up these engines?


Thanks
 

89greendiesel

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Posts
252
Reaction score
0
Location
columbus
yes, new meaning 6.4L PSD. no i'm not selling my truck now. i will sell it when i have a job that pays and has something to do with what i am going to school for, either auto or welding. then i will get a "new" truck.


heck yeah! i am always looking at an 08-10 6.4:D
 

89greendiesel

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Posts
252
Reaction score
0
Location
columbus
Ok, so i want to have ALL parts/gaskets before i even turn the first wrench on this.


I will need:


head studs/bolts
head gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
intake manifold gasket/valley pan
valve cover gaskets


is that all the gaskets i will need? what are good brands to get and were do you recommend i get them from?


i am going to pull the engine and fix my oil pan while i am there as well.


what kinds of engine hoists and stand are capable of holding up these engines?


Thanks


If you're pulling the motor, you'll probably end up wanting to do more thing than you are planning on doing (the gaskets listed). At least that is what would happen to me....i know it, and there is no way to plan for that.

Pretty much every engine hoist and stand is capable of lifting/holding these big buggers. Plan on 1000lbs weight ratings and higher for your stand/hoist. Most are rated to 1 ton

I generally buy felpro gaskets. Never had a problem with them.
 

wmoguy

Registered User
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Posts
2,291
Reaction score
5
Location
Colorado
Get heads checked out and milled for smooth mating surface. (if needed)

Typ4 Cam
 

wmoguy

Registered User
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Posts
2,291
Reaction score
5
Location
Colorado
i am only pulling head and having them check out and then new gaskets. not tearing into the engine.

NO CAM!:rotflmao

Dude if your pulling the block, removing heads etc... You are almost there!!!! Get the cam. When mine comes out you can bet your **** the cam is first on my mind.
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
If you're pulling the motor, you'll probably end up wanting to do more thing than you are planning on doing (the gaskets listed). At least that is what would happen to me....i know it, and there is no way to plan for that.

Amen to that, 89greendiesel. My 7.3's almost ready to go back in after head gaskets. Although the engine seemed to run fine, I thought I might as well pop-test the injectors while the heads are getting TLC. 5 out of 8 bad, so a new set of Delphi BBs. :shocked:

Well, an old IP won't like full pressure all of a sudden, and you can imagine the horror of changing an IP in a van, so doing that now, too, while the engine's on a stand. Yep, that's about $1K I didn't plan on. :frustrate Hopefully the snowball will stop soon!

How is your injection system, BTW, '94IDITurbo7.3?? ;Really

Oh, and many on this board recommend Victor Reinz gaskets, available at CarQuest. That's what I'm using. Good luck to ya!
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
CarQuest may take a few days to get the gaskets. They're pretty common around here.

The injectors will need to come out when the heads go to the shop. My injection shop sez the copper gaskets for the nozzle end are only available in the return line kits, though I imagine the International dealer can get them for a price. Just preparing you for that possibility, unless someone here knows a source for those gasket washers. That would be one more set of gaskets for you to figure out before reassembly. ;)

Injection shop also says that the plastic return pieces on top of the injectors need to be replaced after one removal. Anyone have an opinion on that? ( I could use the answer to that one myself on the next few days! Thx!) :dunno
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

HAMMER DOWN!
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Posts
5,353
Reaction score
3
Location
Fowlerville Michigan
i will replace all the return line caps and o-rings and the copper injector washers. you can get all the copper washer for like $10 from the dealer IIRC.
 

itsacrazyasian

residentcrazyasian
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Posts
2,128
Reaction score
1
Location
boca raton, fl
they sell a injector installation kit that includes orings, new return lines and caps and copper washers when you look for your gaskets. i bought mine at advance, with a cardone box and part number and a dipaco product in the box... clean up the plastic return caps before install. i cut every single one of the orings because of that...
 

hesutton

The Anti-Anderson
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Posts
8,200
Reaction score
738
Location
Bowling Green, KY
My two cents......

If you are pulling the engine for the heads, take a look at the main and rod bearings. You're taking the pan off anyway. That way, you'll know if they are in good or not so good shape. Have a good look at the cylinders as well for any issues. If you aren't (and I didn't see that you were planning to) changine the lifter/push rods/rockers...... be sure to put them back in the same position they were removed from. I'd recommend replacing the main seals (front and rear) if they are leaking. No better time than the present to do them.

The cam isn't a bad swap, but it will require removing the front engine cover. And, you've got be be able to pull off the stuff on the front of the cam and press them back on. Some shots of the process in my 6.9 crew cab gallery in the Webshot link in my signature.

Have the heads tested, inspected, and machined (if needed) by a shop that knows what they are doing with these IDI's. Pay particular attention to the valve guides. If they are worn.... now's the time to fix it...... a dropped valve is not a fun problem to have.

As far as gaskets.... I've gotten some great prices on head gasket sets and valley pans from Reliant Gasket. They have an eBay store. If you can't find what you want on eBay... just call them. They have it, just not always listed on an eBay auction. By the way, their stuff is Victor Reinz.

With the turbo... I'd also mod the valley pan baffle to ensure good oil drainage from the turbo. Again, photos in my webshots. Also, pick up a tube of Permatex Ultra Copper silicone for the oil pan. You should get some good silicone with the Valley pan (If VR brand) and make sure you are generous with it on the rear of the block. That area is too small (IMHO) and you've got to put pleny of silicone there to keep the rear of the valley pan from leaking.

You will need to get a set (4) of dowels for the heads. Get'm from Ford, roughly $12.

I'm a fan of ARP's torque lube for the head bolts/studs. Great for ensuring you get the correct torque on those heads.

If you've got any questions about the head gasket job.... just ask away. I've had to do that on the crew cab not too long ago.

Heath
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,333
Posts
1,130,557
Members
24,137
Latest member
m2rtin

Members online

Top