Head gasket question

justinray

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Cavitation occurs quicker without a thermostat, but other than that.. there is no way to regulate engine temp without a thermostat, the temps would take a while to get up, but once they got there, they would skyrocket quickly. Sure it helps with the heater.. But without it, the coolant in the radiator has no time to cool down and do its job, its the constant rotation of cool coolant into the engine from the radiator and hot coolant from the engine to the radiator that keeps an engine cool. Without a thermostat, both areas start cold and steadily gain heat until something fails.
 

MUDKICKR

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Cavitation occurs quicker without a thermostat, but other than that.. there is no way to regulate engine temp without a thermostat, the temps would take a while to get up, but once they got there, they would skyrocket quickly. Sure it helps with the heater.. But without it, the coolant in the radiator has no time to cool down and do its job, its the constant rotation of cool coolant into the engine from the radiator and hot coolant from the engine to the radiator that keeps an engine cool. Without a thermostat, both areas start cold and steadily gain heat until something fails.

that is a very interesting theory, and cavitation has nothing to do with this conversation, but what your saying is, the thermostat closes when hot to help cool the engine.
the radiator is a heat exchanger, thats its purpose, and for the thermostat, it opens when it gets to its heat range, then stays open til the coolant cools down to when the thermostat closes again, and when the thermostat closes the coolant gets into the heat range to open the thermostat again. now, thinking about what i just said, the thermostat opens and closes while the engine is running, which means if the thermostat stayed closed, the engine would overheat, but if the thermostat stayed open, it wouldnt get hot. have you ever had a thermostat stick open and the heater not blow hot air? or the engine not get into operating temp?
 

justinray

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I have had customers think they didn't need the thermostaton a short drive, it won't get up to temp, but on a longer drive, it will get up to operating temp, and the coolant will not stay in the radiator long enough to cool it, and just get hotter and hotter, until you reach an overheating condition.
 

MUDKICKR

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I have had customers think they didn't need the thermostaton a short drive, it won't get up to temp, but on a longer drive, it will get up to operating temp, and the coolant will not stay in the radiator long enough to cool it, and just get hotter and hotter, until you reach an overheating condition.

i guess we will have to agree to disagree. its been fun discussing this subject, but i think we are getting offtrack with the OP issue at hand. i could debate this further, if needed, but in another thread. i could also pull out my certifications and experience , but thats just monbo jumbo due to this being on a forum. if the OP was closer to where i live id offer to help diagnose the problem, help repair it, or repair it for him, but like i said before good luck.

also just a side note, why dont you try some stealseal?
https://secure.steelseal.com/index.php/t2b?mboxSession=1347237243974-799695
im really interested to see if this stuff works, and im going to try it in a 04 sebring 2.7. i really dont want to do the headgaskets on it, so i hope it helps, but if it doesnt then i will be pulling the heads. the customer wants to try it as well as i do, so we will see if it helps.
 

itsacrazyasian

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I have had customers think they didn't need the thermostaton a short drive, it won't get up to temp, but on a longer drive, it will get up to operating temp, and the coolant will not stay in the radiator long enough to cool it, and just get hotter and hotter, until you reach an overheating condition.

This is very true. Had a Scion Xb in the shop for an overheat condition. Customer had removed tstat, then tried with just the guts removed thinking that the coolant was going through to fast.

I installed a OEM thermostat and his overheating problems went away. It really is because the coolant didn't have enough time to cool in the rad before it entered a hot engine.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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also just a side note, why dont you try some stealseal?
https://secure.steelseal.com/index.php/t2b?mboxSession=1347237243974-799695
im really interested to see if this stuff works, and im going to try it in a 04 sebring 2.7. i really dont want to do the headgaskets on it, so i hope it helps, but if it doesnt then i will be pulling the heads. the customer wants to try it as well as i do, so we will see if it helps.

holy hell! for $110 i will just fix my issue the right way.
 

89greendiesel

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if i stick with stock head bolts then nothing, if i go with studs then it would just be probly IC and increase boost. i would much rather go for performance with a new diesel.



new meaning.......08-'10? Cuz the common rail 6.4's can put 600hp to the ground with a tune, intake, and exhaust. That, my friend, is super.......duper.......ridiculous.

pm me if you're interested in selling
 
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justinray

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new meaning.......08-'10? Cuz the common rail 6.4's can put 600hp to the ground with a tune, intake, and exhaust. That, my friend, is super.......duper.......ridiculous.

pm me if you're interested in selling

Ummmmm.. I may have missed something, :dunno..
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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new meaning.......08-'10? Cuz the common rail 6.4's can put 600hp to the ground with a tune, intake, and exhaust. That, my friend, is super.......duper.......ridiculous.

pm me if you're interested in selling

yes, new meaning 6.4L PSD. no i'm not selling my truck now. i will sell it when i have a job that pays and has something to do with what i am going to school for, either auto or welding. then i will get a "new" truck.
 

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