Fuel Tank Fun!

Clb

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Mine has been on fotofukkit strike for a good month' no help from their tech dept so far.
The issue it seems is....the fsv gets stuck from junk in the tank, do throw a filter in front of it when ya get there!
 

SirRea63l

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Yeah, I do plan on putting one after each tank, just the little inline types.
 

SirRea63l

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It has been a fun week, I found more reasons to poke the Ford engineers in the face, but it is over with and done now.

Tanks are clean, inline fuel filters just after each tank, new fuel selector valve in place, (bit the bullet and got the OEM, it just made things easier and I found it for a exorbitant decently price), rubber portion of all fuel lines replaced, Facet/Duralift pump mounted. Now comes the fun part, I have the Painless fuel pump relay kit, no issues there, what I am looking for is a better way to tap into key on power than the FSS or running a wire to the fusebox. I know I may be forced to run into the fusebox and I know there should be a grommet on the firewall by the brake master cylinder, but I have not found it. I really don't want to tap into the FSS.

Has anyone found a better place to run the key on power from under the hood? There is a large distribution block by the washer reservoir but I doubt any of those are ignition switch controlled. I have searched a few different forums (this one is still the best) but seems everyone either does the FSS or runs a wire.

Edit, this is on the 94.
 

crash-harris

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Only wire I've found has been the one for the FSS. I have it tapped for signal to an oil pressure switch that activates a relay for the electric lift pump.
 

SirRea63l

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Thanks, I will dig around some more in the morning and see if I can find a pass through in the firewall. I know there has to be one, I just have to find it.
 

laserjock

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Look for a red wire with green stripe. I think you may be able to find a key on 12v at the glow plug controller.

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Looking at this the red wire post should be an option.
 

SirRea63l

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Thanks, I will check that one out in the morning. I did find a long grommet, couldn't see it from the steps tool, but did from the ground. One drawback to these high vehicles is visibility in the engine compartment, I have the same problem with the Chevy, maybe I am getting shorter as I get close to geriatric age.
 

laserjock

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Fuel heater line is another option. Most guys delete it.
 

riotwarrior

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You have a zf...there is likely a 1.5 x 6 inch rectangular rubber plug below drivers hood hinge. It is where the COMPUTER plugs in for E4OD or gassers. If your ride was zf factory not converted there should be no wiring passing through there.

Here just wqlked out shot this pic...it is of E4OD 7.3 truck so computer is there were I am pointing. Yours likely a large rubber plug...lots of room to pass wires of all kinds through.

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Hope this helps...means removing kick panel to access IIRC

JM7.3CW
 

riotwarrior

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And can be used as so.

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FYI...a variety of paint pens ...or sharpies...held against wires makes tracers....makes home wiring easier...than follkw the yellow brick road ya got going on there

Could be yel blk tracer or yellow red or white or blue etc....I do it all the time myself.

Just saying
 

crash-harris

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Yeah, I didn't think of that until after I routed them. I even have blue, red, white and yellow paint pens. All the yellow ones are trigger wires from the overhead switches to the relay panel I put in. At least they're all in split loom now :D
 

SirRea63l

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I have it done, yes the large rectangular grommet is there but I used the fuel heater line which is of ample size and right where I needed it to be. I buttoned everything up, installed the Painless relay kit, super easy, primed the system and after about three, 15 second bumps of the starter, it fired right up. I need to tidy up the wiring loom a little before taking any pics. The engine was thoroughly coated in oil and diesel remnants so I washed it down with a couple bottles of Fast 505. I didn't get it all but enough to make me happy. I will let it sit until tomorrow so any water that got on the glow plug controller can dissipate.

Some things I did while I have the bed off. The rollover valves got removed and cleaned. They were stopped up and after cleaning they opened up like they should be, and closed when inverted. This should also help with fueling as it is an open channel for air to escape while filling up the tank. I replaced all the rubber fuel lines from the metal in the frame rails to the tank. The only ones I left were the return lines that connect to the tank. I may go ahead and replace them but I need more clamps first. I ripped out all of the brake controller wiring mess and left the factory one in place. My trailers all use the 7 pin setup so I didn't need the two 5 pin round setups. I still have the 6" drop hitch receiver to get in place, but I will have to grind the welds off the bumper first so it can be removed. There was an extra vacuum hose on the frame rail by the drivers side rear wheel, it was just hanging. I found that it should go to the axle as there was still part of it attached, new hose cured that. I am assuming it is a vent, but there are also brake lines running to it. I will have to find out what it really does. I think I am going to order the new shocks and put them on while I have the bed off.

Next week I am going to change the thermostat, I have had a new Ford one for about 6 months and after removing the alternator bracket to get to the mechanical fuel pump I noticed there is halfway decent access to the t-stat. Having a "cleaner" engine should help. Thanks to everyone with their guidance and suggestions. This is truly the best board on the net for these old trucks.
 

crash-harris

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What did you use to clean the tank vent valves? That's something on my list.

As for the hose on the axle with brake lines running to it, it is indeed the diff vent. They just used the threaded vent fitting to hold the splitter block to the axle. Those 2 systems aren't connected.
 

SirRea63l

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I used Kano Labs Flow Away, it works brilliantly.
 

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