Fuel Return Line Kit

[tgomes]

So I installed my new fuel return line kit from Conestoga this afternoon with rather bad results Please someone tell me where I went wrong. So I started by removing all clamps on the lines followed by removing the caps IP line and Fuel Filter Line etc. Next I removed the old O rings using a pick, I may have scratched a few with the pick not terribly but there may have been some contact. Next I cleaned up to what I thought was enough with a green scotch pad below the bottom O ring because there was a little rust and again same story above the upper O ring. Next I installed the new O rings with a small amount of petroleum jelly. Then the return lines were mocked up for both sides and installed. I did not lube the inner portion of the plastic caps. wasn't sure if I was supposed to do so. I was trying to be careful not to contaminate the fuel system. Hopefully someone can tell me where I went wrong because I have multiple leaking caps. I suppose ill take this one as a learning experience because this end result in the video below. No sure if its a bad rough idle or just really loud because in-between this repair I cut the muffler off and haven't added back any more pipe. Now its just dumping under the bed.
https://youtu.be/TC8GE1DMFF8

 

[crash-harris]

Did you press the caps on until the "clicked"?

I always thought you were supposed to lube the insides of the caps as well. Someone else that's done it before will probably chime in shortly to verify.

 

[homelessduck]

The o-rings get nicked very easily and won't seal. Always check the caps for rough spots or burrs, which can ruin the o-ring every time you install it and drive you nuts..Also make sure they are seated all the way. Sometimes they take a lot of pressure but it is a very distinct feeling when they snap down.

 

[tgomes]

Yes I did push the caps down until they clicked. However this was done with a 5/8 socked an extension and rubber mallet. Ever so softly....(and that's not sarcasm) I hope I didn't ruin the kit

 

[tgomes]

Hmm these o rings were pretty heavy duty. Should the inside of the caps be completely smooth because there was a lip in the caps

 

[icanfixall]

The initial outside lip is what cuts the o rings on the caps. I use an exacto knife to cut away this sharp lip. This is a piece of casting flash when the caps are made. I did not hear or see any leaks or ruff idle in the vid. Sorry. Only reason I have for the ruff idle is some dirt got into the injectors when you cleaned off the rust you spoke of. The lip or ridge you speak of near the top of the cap inside is supposed to be there. Look in the caps you removed and it will be there too. A closeup pic on the cap to injector hard line would have helped you realize what the air gap should have been with the new caps properly seated. Its not likely you scratched the injectors with the pick attempting to remove the old o rings. For simple o ring removal I use a dental pick to pull the o ring away from the injector and then cut it with an exacto knife. When installing new o rings grease the injector and roll the o ring into the top groove. Then roll the second o ring over the top seated o ting. thats the best way and keeps you from damaging the o ring by trying to get it out of the top groove and into the bottom groove.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

she doesn't sound like she's running rough to me either but if you see some caps are wet then you'll need to fix them.since the kit is new you'll be ok.just go ahead and pull the wet caps.take a look at the o-rings.if they look damaged just replace them.if they look ok,go ahead and apply some more petroleum jelly to the rings and press down firmly.don't use a socket and hammer.just press down until you feel it fully seat.you'll know when they do.
in fact before i did anything,id just go ahead press down to see if i just didn't fully seat them.might be all it takes.either way,you can fix this easy enough.it's when the return lines are years old that they leak easy once disturbed.when new,you can move the lines all around without worry.

on a side note;
how did you (or someone before you) manage to put 350k+ on a truck in New England before rotting out!? that's unheard of.you either kept her garaged in the winter,she's from out west or she's got more holes than swiss cheese by now?!

 

[tgomes]

Well I have to say she isn't the prettiest of girls. Has blemishes here and there but the frame is 100% solid. Just needs a good scuff and paint.

I suppose I will start ripping off these caps to check em out.. Any idea if napa will sell these O ring or should I just put the order in online now

 

[tgomes]

http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-111V75...d=1451914738&sr=8-1&keywords=viton+o+ring+111

Will those work

 

[OLDBULL8]

One mistake when replacing the return lines, is cutting the line too long between the caps. The lines have to be straight and at least 1/16"to 1/8" away from touching the cap at each end, if the line pushes the cap sideways it will leak. The line from IP to the 1st cap, line to filter and crossover should be slack. There is only .004 to .005 compression of the O'ring on each side. Don't be afraid to use plenty of lube, any access will wash out or squeeze out. Any silicone grease or Vasoline can be used. I've even used wheel bearing grease.

 

[IDIoit]

dont ever use any kind of device to install the caps,
always do them by hand.
twist and push.

i dont lube the caps on mine.
i use a spray lithium grease on the o-rings before i put the cap on.
sometimes it can get a little dry, just re-spray.
wont hurt the fuel system.
i bet you nicked a o-ring.

 

[typ4]

I still have lots of vitons on hand. Just sayin

 

[tgomes]

http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-111V75...d=1451914738&sr=8-1&keywords=viton+o+ring+111

I can't wait much longer so I bought these shipped to the door tomorrow 1 day shipping cost me 4 bucks so I am up to 16 bucks for 100 rings. Once they come in ill take off the caps replace the rings and go from there. Hopefully it jumps up into the 40's the next few afternoons. Today the high was 23 and overcast, not ideal for driveway wrenching. Im tracking on everything you guys are saying and I very much appreciate it and I will update soon. Lots of lube no socket to snap them down with these new rings and I shouldn't have a problem. And Old Bull the lines aren't crooked, I made sure of that because well it just looks cleaner that way. Ive seen people have the lines bulging all over the place and it looks tacky.

Below is the routing I chose to use for my truck. Question is where should my IP to the rear T Line be routed on. Right now it is sitting on the intake manifold. I will have to upload a picture of that tomorrow.

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[ironworker40]

I use engine oil on o rings. Check caps for burs. Install top o ring first is a must. There should be a space between the return cap and the injector line nut. Look at them all they should all be the same, this is how I can tell if I don't have one on enough. With the injector line on I use a pair of 90 degree long needle nose pliers to push on caps. It works and I have never cracked one. I suspect you cracked some caps with the mallet. Some caps will click, some won't but you MUST have a space between the cap and injector line nut or it is not on. Try when engine is warmed up in 20 degree temps caps and o rings get stiff.

 

[tgomes]

Ill have to also insect the caps when I reinstall I don't think I cracked any I was very gentle. And the burs you guys speak of where are they.. At the base of the cap or inside of the cap?