Fuel problem...injector pump is getting fuel but won't push fuel?!?!

Thefarmboy21

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Alright fellas, I have an 87 F-250 with a 6.9 and it has the new style glow plugs etc... I just put an older motor in the truck to replace the one that slung a rod. My problem is that the injector pump won't send fuel to the injectors. I used a vac pump to get fuel up to the fuel pump, then did the bicycle valve in the filter head and I opened the two 1/2" bolts on both sides of the IP and they both pushed out air then fuel. No matter how much I crank the IP won't pump fuel to the lines and injectors. I havent checked to see if the IP has power to the fuel shut off but the cold start solenoid has power because it flips my throttle back every time I hit the key so I figured the IP probably had power. Also I disconnected the white wire from the GP controller so I didn't burn them up. I ran my batteries dead twice trying to get fuel pumped up and got nothing. I know my first step is check the IP for power but after that I'm stumped. The truck would start up before I changed the motor but had two holes in the oil pan lol. The new motor is an older motor (Blue with old glow plugs) and all I did was change GP's and wiring harness and drop it in. Never heard it run tho. Any ideas??? Anything you've got would be greatly appreciated. I'm fairly new to the IDI world but I'm no stranger to the garage or toolbox an I've done a lot of IDI homework while doing the motor swap. Thanks guys!
 

OLDBULL8

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First thing you have to do is make sure the fuel shut off (FSS) on the IP is working. With the key ON, engine OFF, remove the wire to the FSS, the one on the front side of the IP, by touching the wire on and off the IP connection, you should hear a clicking sound. The FSS mechanism is spring open, it may be stuck. Remove the rubber line on top of the IP, hold a can there and have someone crank it over, you should have fuel come out there. If you have fuel there then crack open a turn or two all the steel lines to the injectors, that relieves air to the injectors, tighten them back up as you see fuel come out of them.
 

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Thefarmboy21

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Just as I feared....the injector pump DOES have power to everything at the IP. I tested it with at meter and checked at 11.33 volts and I also unplugged it and everytime intouched the plug to the terminal you could hear the solenoid clicking inside. But still won't push out fuel or even air??? Any ideas?
 

bghnkinf350

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Loosen the injector lines slightly at the injectors (1/4 to half turn). Hold the throttle open all the way and crank for 20 second intervals with a break in between. As fuel starts coming out of each line tighten them.

Air can be a huge ***** and pain to get rid of.
 

justinray

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Holding the throttle wide open to start is a myth, it doesnt matter where our throttle os at start, because the rpm's are lower than the fuel meters 'working range' so it dumps full fuel at any throttle at start, so you can turn the key on, jump the solenoid and watch it while standing at the engine bay.
 

6.9poweredscout

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Holding the throttle wide open to start is a myth, it doesnt matter where our throttle os at start, because the rpm's are lower than the fuel meters 'working range' so it dumps full fuel at any throttle at start, so you can turn the key on, jump the solenoid and watch it while standing at the engine bay.

How come on the visor of my truck ford recommends full throttle while cranking below 32 degrees, and half throttle above? I also saw the same thing by IH in a S series equipped with a 6.9.
 

justinray

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Im not sure, but could it be because your truck wasn't originally equipped with a DB2?

On edit: Sorry, I see you said your Ford. I don't know, but everything I've read about a DB2 has said any throttle change at starting speed changes nothing.
 

Agnem

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Not true. The DB2 govenor mechanism does apply more fuel than idle at start up, but more fuel can be gained by advancing the fuel rack.

Now as for these "half inch bolts you removed" What in Gods holly name possessed you to remove those? You just cut the hydraulic head loose from the pump body. Your lucky the whole thing didn't just explode on you! Your pump could be completely *****'d now.
 

Agnem

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It is, yes. The govenor does advance the throttle to about a quarter throttle at start up, but moves to idle as soon as it spins up. You can get more out of it by advancing the throttle lever as indicated.
 

Thefarmboy21

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I only took one out then put it back. Then just cracked the other loose. Both let air out then a little fuel. I just thought they were bleeders :/ I didn't turn it over with them out. I may have turned it over with just one cracked open. They tightened back up so....did I jack up the pump?
 

Black dawg

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I only took one out then put it back. Then just cracked the other loose. Both let air out then a little fuel. I just thought they were bleeders :/ I didn't turn it over with them out. I may have turned it over with just one cracked open. They tightened back up so....did I jack up the pump?

NO you didnt hurt the pump. at this point I would check for fuel from the return of the pump. If there is return fuel, I would pull the lid and make sure the gov linkage and metering valve are free. The lid must be put back on correctly or you will have a runaway.
 

Thefarmboy21

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Ok. Yea that's my next step but I've heard too many stories about runaway and wasnt sure if I should try or not. So is there anything special I have to line back up or what? I've looked t the inside shot of the pump but never had one apart and idk what the inside of the cap looks like. I have a spare pump BUT I'm pretty sure it works so I'd rather screw up the one that I'm unsure of...I'd rather have to change a pump than have two bad ones and still have to change it haha. Thanks for the help thus far guys!
 
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