Found some yucki

[waynetrain]

I sure hope so about to put it on and take it for another one I'm not going to get happy yet

 

[trackspeeder]

yeah that's very scary when a range sensor fails because you would think it was mechanical.very frightening.


.

Nothing worse while driving along with your favorite tunes cranked up. Then this happens.

Oh, turning up the radio doesn't fix this problem.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I sure hope so about to put it on and take it for another one I'm not going to get happy yet

so to replace it,first set your driveline brake so she can't go anywhere on ya.chock the wheels too.

shift into N.

remove the shift linkage.

remove the 2 bolts holding the sensor on.

unplug the sensor.

see those 2 lines in the attachment i posted? line those up and install the sensor in reverse order.

before plugging the sensor in,take your electrical cleaner you bought (that is the good stuff by the way! it's wht i use too) and clean that connector very good with it.then plug it in.


if the plug simply plugs in,your all set.if it doesn't you'll need to re-pin.post and let us know for instructions.

be safe! remember,set e-brake and chock wheels first! no truck is worth getting crushed over.

 

[waynetrain]

I installed the neutral safety switch per @FORDF250HDXLT instructions minus shift linkage removal, drove it for about another 20 minutes or so drove fine and then yep just Cruisin along does the same exact thing only in 3rd It seems. slow down 2 about 10 miles an hour to drop it in second took off drove fine until the next red light and just constantly repeated that all the way back to my shop. it's like it's stuck and once it does that it it appears to be stuck in second gear my fluids topped off I checked all my lines and make sure there's no air being sucked into the transmission so I'm back to square one I guess it's such a beautiful day though I would have loved to have been cruising around looking for cars to pick up.
I checked the wiring harness everything looks great I even pulled out the magnifying glass just to be super sure so I can see any corrosion on the tips of the pins before I swap them over to the new harness

so to replace it,first set your driveline brake so she can't go anywhere on ya.chock the wheels too.

shift into N.

remove the shift linkage.

remove the 2 bolts holding the sensor on.

unplug the sensor.

see those 2 lines in the attachment i posted? line those up and install the sensor in reverse order.

before plugging the sensor in,take your electrical cleaner you bought (that is the good stuff by the way! it's wht i use too) and clean that connector very good with it.then plug it in.


if the plug simply plugs in,your all set.if it doesn't you'll need to re-pin.post and let us know for instructions.

be safe! remember,set e-brake and chock wheels first! no truck is worth getting crushed over.

 

[riotwarrior]

Just an FYI.....

A local auto marine electrical guru gave me a good pointer....take a self contained spot sand/soda/glass bead blaster.....glass n soda are preferred....one of those small hand held jobs with media container built in...using soda or glass bead he blasts corrosion off/out of electrical connectors and then uses contact cleaner and good ole dialectric grease.....

You must be registered for see images

Just an additional cleaning tip I picked up.

Now I am on the hunt for one of those for soda/glass bead to do just that

JM7.3CW

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

oh yup,just pop the cable off the shift linkage i meant there,of course no need to remove the shift linkage.poor wording.

so it sounds now like it's not falling into N but selecting the wrong gear. likely that bad teca relay (but if the od light and switch are working ok now,that might of just been corrosion) or the tach sensor and or wires to it are the issue there now with causing the messy tach signal.
the tach needs to read 100% accurate at idle through wot.so you've got to address this now.it's starting to sound like the tach sensor or it's wires will be the last of your issues.

the joys of resurrecting old vehicles.don't worry.eventually it will no longer be,one thing after another.instead, it will be one thing and then another.

 

[waynetrain]

Hello gentlemen! Its been some days since i last updated. I am still in limbo with this trans. Nothing has changed since my last update other than im still not able to work the truck and it is stopping my business from growing. I am in the position to invest in a NEW E4OD for this truck if need be on borrowed money and time.
It is still popping out of gear randomly but mostly after 15-30 minutes of just simply driving the truck to force it to do this (no gunning the gas ) just simply driving as IF i was going to pick up a car etc.. of course after it has its jumping issues and shifting issues, it will run like a dream but i notice a loss of power in the accellerator in between the shifting problems.
Do you guys have any suggestions on sites i can order a new or rebuilt unit at a reasonable price. I am honestly not too concerned with warrant length, i just want to start towing. Just so everyone knows this is a small rollback and i will not be towing over my capacity just to make a dollar. i will only be towing smaller sedans , maybe a few small pickup trucks the insurance companies send my way.
--- In case you have read other post i have recently replaced Solenoid pack, Tach Sensor, Trans range sensor / Nuetral safety switch

I read a post today on another forums that came up in google search someoen had similiar issues, paid $2,000 for a rebuild and it did the same thing, end result was the valve body, which should of been done with rebuild, was doing something that deals with the fluid pressure causing the popping out of gear at highway speeds and locking up TC. I do not have the knowledge other than $$ to drop the pan and do any internal work myself.

you opinions, guidance and knowledge are greatly appreciated, just please consider before you express your thoughts that all of the progress i have made here has been because of you all with out you, i would not have made it this far! The info from these local guys that would blow your mind if i told you some of the things they have said to me about this truck...... 6 shops do not have the time within the next 4-8 weeks to rebuild my trans. One that would be willing to make time said his main ford guy got fired for smoking **** in the back of the shop and he is not an expert on e4od,,,, smh....

I have checked out MONSTER TRANS and a few other sites but not too fond of them, i would like to get one ordered and at the shop this week.

If you would like to call me 706-617-0075 Wayne Jenkins thanks for your time fellas

 

[junk]

To me I'd probably take it to a tranny shop who knows e40d and let them diagnose it. Sounds like you have bad wiring or something. The fact it seems to do ok when it's not acting up makes me think wiring or sensor.

 

[waynetrain]

same here @junk and its so annoying lol, i can say every single day since my last post i have gone over and over and over the wiring but i honestly feel im missing something which noone on the forums can help me with lol

 

[waynetrain]

just met with a guy down the street, a transmission shop called transco transmission, said he would rebuild it for 1200 including valve body, 200 for new converter, 200 for labor
he said if i drop it off tomorrow evening he can have it ready for me thursday evening

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

It is still popping out of gear randomly but mostly after 15-30 minutes of just simply driving the truck to force it to do this (no gunning the gas ) just simply driving as IF i was going to pick up a car etc.. of course after it has its jumping issues and shifting issues, it will run like a dream but i notice a loss of power in the accellerator in between the shifting problems.

ok lets make sure we understand what your saying so we know what you know.

expand on this:
"It is still popping out of gear"

popping out of what gear and then into what state when it does it? for example:
the converter is unlocking
or
it's downshifting from od into 3rd
or
the trans feels as if it's dropped out of OD and gone into neutral.

if you cancel od does it still do it?

--- In case you have read other post i have recently replaced Solenoid pack, Tach Sensor, Trans range sensor / Nuetral safety switch

you didn't replace the teca relay? when it "pops out of gear" does the od light go dim (along with a 0 reading on the tach) ?
you were supposed to start with this back in a previous thread,so i hope you just forgot to add it to the list.

 

[waynetrain]

ok let make sure we understand what your saying so we know what you know.

expand on this:
"It is still popping out of gear"

popping out of what gear and then into what state when it does it? for example:
the converter is unlocking
or
it's downshifting from od into 3rd
or
the trans feels as if it's dropped out of OD and gone into neutral.

if you cancel od does it still do it?

It does the following: At random speed, assuming its in drive with OD activated it will pop out of 3rd into neutral - I press the pedal it revs up high as if its in neutral, sometimes it will catch and go into whatever gear assuming 3rd or 2nd if i had slowed down enough. When it has done this, i have down shifted manuall and it has gone into second and i proceed and it will shift fine.

I have pressed the od button to turn od off with it not wanting to do what i just explained at all rev, rev no catch slow down, put it in neutral or 1st then take off either it will run good or not its so random and not consistant with the sht its doing. Sometimes ill press the od button and it will downshift from the neutral state , after it has *popped out of whatever gear, then seems to slide into gear instead of shifting as if it doesnt want to CATCH so to speak. I have tried different variations. It has also bogged the engine down to cut off (assuming that is TC locking up??) which is another issue but has not done it in a while.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

your symptoms are still that of a failed range sensor.you lined up the two lines correct? there's no issue with starting the truck in P or N right? your not finding the need to hold up on the shift lever to get the ignition to work.the shift cable doesn't feel stretched out/have a sloppy column shift?


the converter remaining locked when coming to a stop,hasn't happened since replacing the solenoid pack.is that safe to say?

 

[waynetrain]

I really hope im explaining it halfway decent. Also whether button is pressed or not, i can start out from a stop and it will accellerate very nice shift smooth, sometimes it doesnt want to go into 3rd gear and is super sluggish.

 

[waynetrain]

your symptoms are still that of a failed range sensor.you lined up the two lines correct? there's no issue with starting the truck in P or N right? your not finding the need to hold up on the shift lever to get the ignition to work.the shift cable doesn't feel stretched out/have a sloppy column shift?


the converter remaining locked when coming to a stop,hasn't happened since replacing the solenoid pack.is that safe to say?

No sir, column and shifting level feels pretty good and tight, i have had a vehicles that was loose years ago so i do have that understanding thankfully lol.
when i first put the trans back in after that front seal it wouldnt start due to the shifter not lining up but i adjusted it and its all well.

it has not per say done that since the S.P was replaced but has came very close when i mentioned it feels like it looses power in random gears that feels trans related.