Found my Dana 60- Now for some swap questions......

[mattplumber]

Going to pick up my d60 today. Its a 1997 DRW 4.10. Got it for 700 bucks and it is a real 64k mile axle thats been stored indoors since 2000. It is a "bare" axle meaning that it doesn't have any springs, steering, track bar, etc. Its also missing the locking hubs.
I do have a few questions though for the experienced people here that have done the swap.

1. I am currently SRW. I can swap over my d50 hubs and such to the 60 directly and make it a SRW with no mods, right?

2. If the answer to question 1 is yes, then does that mean I can use my current calipers? Or am I still going to have to source new ones since the 96-97 calipers BOLT ON and mine have slide pins.

3. Since the axle is bare, I know I need some 350 front springs, track bar, bracket, and steering linkages to complete the swap. Oh, and a driveshaft too. I KNOW using the TTB springs is a NO NO, but will the u-bolts and hardware I have transfer over?

Im sure i'll have more questions as I begin to swap parts, but thanks in advance for all the responses. I know a bunch have done this swap and I tried searching and reading through all the threads and posts last night but got confused and gave up...........

 

[mattplumber]

Oh, I'm gonna start poking around for some 350 springs too. Is there any way to VISUALLY tell the difference between 250 and 350 springs. I have a feeling that alot of sellers out there are trying to pass 250 springs off as 350 springs.

Also what is the REAL difference between the 2 springs? Load rating, spring rate, etc..................?

 

[rjjp]

U-bolts will not swap & 350 springs have a slight arch to them, plus they have a much lower spring rate.

 

[gonecrazyi]

I've got spare springs from when I lifted mine bit your a bit far away.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Going to pick up my d60 today. Its a 1997 DRW 4.10. Got it for 700 bucks and it is a real 64k mile axle thats been stored indoors since 2000. It is a "bare" axle meaning that it doesn't have any springs, steering, track bar, etc. Its also missing the locking hubs.
I do have a few questions though for the experienced people here that have done the swap.

1. I am currently SRW. I can swap over my d50 hubs and such to the 60 directly and make it a SRW with no mods, right?


2. If the answer to question 1 is yes, then does that mean I can use my current calipers? Or am I still going to have to source new ones since the 96-97 calipers BOLT ON and mine have slide pins.


3.I KNOW using the TTB springs is a NO NO, but will the u-bolts and hardware I have transfer over?

D50/D60 hubs are interchangeable yes.no mods required.

you'll need brake calipers that hook up to the new axle.so if they bolt on,then you won't be able to use the old style.


you cannot safely re-use your old U-bolts anyway.the threads stretch when they are torqued and are weakened once removed.you'll need to buy new hardware.

Also what is the REAL difference between the 2 springs? Load rating, spring rate, etc..................?

D50 springs are much different than D60 springs.
D50 springs are very stiff and completely flat.they arch negatively when installed.
D60 springs are positively arched and have a lower spring rate.
swapping in a D60 straight axle already stiffens up the ride over independent suspension.you don't want to exaggerate things by using d50 springs.

 

[mattplumber]

Any Idea how much shipping would be? They just really have to be tagged or stickered to ship I think, not much "packaging" involved. The ones i've found anywhere close to here want about 75-100 bucks for a stock pair but can't tell me whether they are 350 or 250 springs and I know if I just buy them, they will end up being another pair of whooped out 250 springs and I will have wasted my $$.
Where in fla are you?

 

[mattplumber]

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattplumber View Post
Also what is the REAL difference between the 2 springs? Load rating, spring rate, etc..................?
D50 springs are much different than D60 springs.
D50 springs are very stiff and completely flat.they arch negatively when installed.
D60 springs are positively arched and have a lower spring rate.
swapping in a D60 straight axle already stiffens up the ride over independent suspension.you don't want to exaggerate things by using d50 springs.
__________________

My current setup has my stock springs at like 3/8" of an inch away from my bumpstops, and my stock 235/85 tires rubbing at ride height. I couldn't IMAGINE a rougher, stiffer ride. ANYTHING is welcomed improvement at this point.
And to clarify, I f I do encounter a pair, the will have "some" arch to them rather than being compeltely flat. Sorry for sounding weird, but I want to make damn sure I don't shell out good dough for another set of d50 springs.

 

[gonecrazyi]

What's your zip. I'm near Daytona beach. The springs are still bolted into an f350 4x4.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Going to pick up my d60 today. Its a 1997 DRW 4.10. Got it for 700 bucks and it is a real 64k mile axle thats been stored indoors since 2000. It is a "bare" axle meaning that it doesn't have any springs, steering, track bar, etc. Its also missing the locking hubs.
I do have a few questions though for the experienced people here that have done the swap.

1. I am currently SRW. I can swap over my d50 hubs and such to the 60 directly and make it a SRW with no mods, right?
Yes. Unbolt your DRW hubs and sell them for $200, then bolt your D50 hubs right on.
2. If the answer to question 1 is yes, then does that mean I can use my current calipers? Or am I still going to have to source new ones since the 96-97 calipers BOLT ON and mine have slide pins.
You will need calipers for a 95,96,97 axle to work on your "new" dana 60, and also the caliper mounting brackets as well(if your axle does not have them), but you can get them with "most" LOADED calipers
3. Since the axle is bare, I know I need some 350 front springs, track bar, bracket, and steering linkages to complete the swap. Oh, and a driveshaft too. I KNOW using the TTB springs is a NO NO, but will the u-bolts and hardware I have transfer over?
Yes, you need f350 DIESEL OR BIG BLOCK springs, small block will do you no good. Yes you will also need a track bar and mount(about $100-150). front drive shaft is not totally necessary but a F250 d-shaft will tend to vibrate above 50mph if in 4wd or hubs locked. If you are going to use the F350 d-shaft, you will also need a Front pinion yolk from a F350 1356 t-case, similar to the one that is in your truck. NO GO on the u-bolts. They are a one time thing, they are like torque to yeild head bolts, you need new ones, But Jeffs bronco grave yard has them for about $35. You will also need the drivers side u-bolt plate. It is a cast piece of metal formed to the contours of the pumpkin and the axle tube. If you decide not to use one, you need to cut/notch the pumpkin webbing to locate the u-bolts correctly and you will also need to make a top spring/shock plate)
Im sure i'll have more questions as I begin to swap parts, but thanks in advance for all the responses. I know a bunch have done this swap and I tried searching and reading through all the threads and posts last night but got confused and gave up...........

I hope that answers any of your questions. Feel free to PM me, i have done the swap a couple dozen times

 

[fuzzydog]

I just did this, in fact I torqued the ubolts last night. You got some good info here. I don't necessarily agree with needing the F350 springs - I left my 250 springs on but haven't driven it extensively, just up and down the street and it feels about the same as before. The big test drive is tonight so I will report back.

One question,which is related so not exactly a hijack, is about the driver side ubolt plate. My D60 is an 89 kingpin, my F250 is a 91. I didn't get the ubolt bracket with the axle but got it from someone else and the fit seems kind of sketchy. There is a groove in the plate for the diff rib but they don't mate up nicely. In other words, the diff rib is resting securely on the middle of the bracket, but the edges of the bracket don't seem well supported by the axle housing. It is hard to explain, but it almost seems like torquing the ubolts will cause the axle bracket to break along the middle? Anybody have any clue what I am talking about?

 

[mattplumber]

Many Thanks Brad. Just what I needed to know.

I did pick up the axle today and what a beauty it is. It looks like brand new. It was actually a SRW axle that was misidentified by the yard, I complained a little and ended up getting the axle for $450. I suddenly quit complaining........

This thing is massive to say the least, a vast improvement in beefiness, even if it is only riding in the bed of the truck at this point.................

 

[mattplumber]

What she looks like.

 

[Diesel_brad]

looks nice and clean