Finally got lift pump changed. Runs, now ABS light on and dead speedometer?

idi_econoline

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Did also change the alternator and the hard supply line to the fuel filter......... but how did that whack my electricals?

Electronic odometer is visible, but didn't seem to advance in my trips around the block.

E4OD also seems a bit confused. Only goes into 2nd when I put the selector into "2"

:dunno
 

jaluhn83

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I'd guess you jiggled a connection somewhere. The speedo gets signal from the sensor on the top of the rear axle, and splits this out to the ABS system and I think the trans, so a lack of speed sensor signal into the speedo I'd expect to cause the issues you're seeing. I would check the connectors on the engine side of the firewall driver's side, and the wiring/connector on the axle sensor. Did you do anything around either of these areas? Anything with the instrument cluster? Might be that moving the suction line to change the fuel pump somehow pulled or rubbed the sensor wire on the frame rail, though it's a bit of a long shot.

Bottom line is I'll bet there's an issue in the wiring somewhere between the rear axle sensor and the speedo.... finding it may be a pain in the rear though.
 

snicklas

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The TECA and fuel heater pull power from the same fuse. I would bet that when he was fiddling with the filter head, he shorted out the heater wires, causing the fuse to blow. No fuse/fusible link, no TECA, no tach, E4OD in limp mode.

Is the O/D Off light glowing faintly? If so, no power to the TECA.... look at Gary's thread (icanfixall) about No Tach... Rig let me down.........
 

idi_econoline

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.....Did you do anything around either of these areas? Anything with the instrument cluster? Might be that moving the suction line to change the fuel pump somehow pulled or rubbed the sensor wire on the frame rail.......

Hmm. Nah, didn't go underneath in back, and really didn't touch the wiring at all. Except for the big, fat engine grounding cable by the lift pump, which I reconnected.
 

idi_econoline

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The TECA and fuel heater pull power from the same fuse. I would bet that when he was fiddling with the filter head, he shorted out the heater wires, causing the fuse to blow. No fuse/fusible link, no TECA, no tach, E4OD in limp mode.

Is the O/D Off light glowing faintly? If so, no power to the TECA.... .........

Fuel heater? Didn't know there is one. Assuming TECA = sensor at the timing gears. Will check if it's getting power and report back. Will look at OD light, also.

Thx, snicklas.
 

snicklas

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Fuel heater? Didn't know there is one. Assuming TECA = sensor at the timing gears. Will check if it's getting power and report back. Will look at OD light, also.

Thx, snicklas.

TECA is actually the Transmission "Computer".... the sensor in the IP Gear cover is tach sensor. There is a relay that powers the TECA which controls the transmission and if its not working, the transmission goes into limp mode, which is the odd/lack of shifting that you are feeling. The transmission still need the tach signal, even though Ford didn't put on on the dash...... is the OD Off light glowing dimly, or is there no light at all? If the TECA doesn't have power, the light will just barely glow.......
 

icanfixall

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The teca relay is found near the window washer bottle on any truck. Finding it on a van is not something I can tell you. My issue was not power feeding the relay. In my suggested posting thread someone posted what the relay looks like and how to test the power feeds to it. We have a ground terminal all the time. We have a hot feed of 12 volts all the time and a signal circut that has 12 volts only when the ignition is on. Engine can or can't be running .. It does not matter. In my case I did not have full 12 volts to the hot always terminal. So I jumpered it from a battery positive and instantly had my tach again. The trans was shifting again too. No matter what. You have this teca relay. Finding it is the big deal now. On my wire harness it turns out someone before me did a wire repair to this feed wire. That location was between the battery on the passenger side. On that same side is my starter solenoid. All the power to everything goes thru that solenoid. The power wire on my truck was 2 yellow wires. Behind the battery was a fuse able link that failed so the crappy repair was 2 or those blue crimp connectors and no shrink tubing. So battery acid got to the connections and ate away the copper wire. Mine actually came apart when I was lifting the wires to cut off the wrap to see what was the wire colors. No not one auto parts store had what I needed to repair this so off to Ecology auto wrecking walkin and take what you want for 2 bucks.. I actually paid for 2 sets of all the fuse able links in this really bad area. So I have probably 12 or 14 of them now. Please read all the great information in my thread. A big thanks went out to Al and Russ. Russ suggested a fuse able link problem and Al taught me over the cell phone how to use my digital voltmeter conductivity part of the teater.
 

madpogue

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TECA, tach sensor, TECA relay, etc. will not make the speedometer fail. When you add up an inop speedometer, an odometer that displays but does not count, an ABS light and a shifting problem, the common thing among them is a VSS issue - VSS itself or the wiring, connector, etc.
 

icanfixall

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So is the 92 model year truck and van have an electronic speedo or is it possibly cable driven? I'm thinking electric so that does sound like a vss problem. Could be the sensor or the wires to it.
 

jaluhn83

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Tangent, but note that the VSS on the rear axle was standard for 87+ (IIRC), so having one does not mean you have an electric speedo, though it's the same sensor with or without. Earlier years used it solely for the ABS, and had a mechanical speedo with another sensor to feel the cruise & E4OD computer. 92+ integrated everything where the rear axle sensor feed the electric speedo that then spits out a conditioned signal for the cruise and trans computer, throught the ABS system still gets signal directly.
 

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