Finally got another one

OLDBULL8

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pedosile? = pedestal

what is the CDR? = Crankcase vent. Located right behind the intake, about 4" dia. 1-1/2" thick, hose goes into the valley pan and a short one into the intake.

If you return the oil from the turbo to the valley pan, punch some holes in the baffel thru where the CDR hose goes into the valley pan, otherwise the oil will overflo and leak down the back of the engine.
 

Diesel JD

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Can't beat either of those prices. You're going to earn it. Since you know how to wel and fabricate well you may be able to devise your own solution to the downpipe issue. All you need is to modify the exhaust flange to take a 3" downpipe and that turbo is kick butt awesome....at least to 12-15 psi which is as high as you want to go on stock internals with a stock turbo anyway, even with studs. Being your truck is an 86 it's going to have the screw in head latching relay glow plug controller so at this point you have two very good options. Option one is to grab the glow plug controller and wires from that 93 truck. They do not do well in extreme heat and Ford and IH knew this and moved the controller away with some slightly longer wires and associated odds and ends. My truck had a stock latching relay and I upgraded to the later system. My controller has always been in the battery tray where the old 6.9 power relay lived. If you do this spend the few extra bucks it takes to get the factory glow plug harness out of there unless it is real mouse eaten. This is SO much easier to do correctly than modifying your 6.9 harness for the ZD9 PTC glow plugs. The second option would be to keep your current glow plug system, unscrew the in head controller and replace it with a suitable pipe plug to get it out of the way and wire up a momentary toggle. It sounds like only you will be driving this truck and you are more than competent to do most all work on it. For people like yourself a momentary toggle is a great solution. I'd rather see you have 12V slow glow glow plugs form a 78 Olds diesel with that setup but they are expensive, the factory motorcraft ZD-1-A will hold up to the use of a toggle as long as you never leave them on more than 8-10 seconds. Anyways the momentary toggle is very simple even for a guy like me who's not very good at electronics,the pros of this are that you can save $$ and leave your current glows in there if they are motorcraft/beru or another premium brand like SLM/LDM or Wellmans. We don't like autolites or champions with these trucks. They have some good products but IDI diesel glow plugs are not one of them...no one knows why..we just know they tend to overheat and swell and lead people to have to worry them out, pull the head or risk engine damage by "passing" busted glow plug tips where this is relatively uncommon with better plugs. the berus work the best with either stock system. 12V AC Delcos probably are a great idea with a momentary toggle if you can get them cheap enough and you don't care about a long glow time. For me the 12V stuff is theoretical as the stock plugs are only rated at 6V, so they will heat up majorly fast. I have used ZD-1-As on a momentary toggle, and the ZD9s in a solid state(87 and later) stock system as well as Delphis in a 83-86 stock system, all worked well. As far as the turbo goes you must get all the cast pieces, up pipe, casting collector, turbo/snailshell and pedestal. You'd be more likely to be able to make some of this stuff than others but why do that when it's all there and cheap. As far as I know there really aren't a lot of little parts you are going to miss. The CDR(aka tuna can, PCV, crankcase vent adapter) is going to be mounted on one of the valve covers. You need this and the VC unless you want to rig up your own system or run a road draft tube but again...why do that when it's there? Also make sure you get the intae hat/swirl chamber right under the air box. You don't need that downpipe or crossover stuff, you're going to upgrade the DP anyway and crossovers are easy to bend out of stock exhaust tubing. It would still be helpful to have the old one as a template. Mine was full of rust and I was scared to use it. Good luck...I'm gonna imagine you'll earn that cheap turbo price by the time it's said and done.
 

NMB2

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Lots of good info there that I was wondering about. I knew about the glowplugs (this is my 3rd IDI). As for the turbo parts, I am very mechanically inclined and these motors are stupid simple so I figured I would be able to grab everything I needed without a list. I just wanted to make sure there wasnt a difference in something major like intake manifold or anything like that.

If its just a flange that bolts to the turbo for the downpipe that will take me literally 30 minutes to modify. Just cut the old pipe off, enlarge hole if needed, bend pipe, weld.

I know where the relay is, but what is "latching relay" Not that its important, just curious what you mean.

Do you have a picture by chance of the controller and harness I'm looking for from the 93? I'm sure it will be easy to get to once I rip the turbo parts off, I just want to know exactly what I'm looking at so i dont miss any little "odds and ends" associated.

This all sounds pretty easy to me. I did this kind of stuff for a living before I joined the Army, now its just recreational.

I have just never torn into one of these motors before, which doesnt intimidate me, because an engine is an engine to me. Just want to make sure I grab every part associated with putting that turbo kit onto my 6.9 which I'm pretty sure I can figure it out on my own, but would rather here of the little things here, instead of finding out on my own.

Thanks for the help.
 

idi traveler

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On the 93 the CDR is on the drivers side valve cover and a hose from it gos to the air box on the small inlet half way from the air filter to the turbo. I plugged the inlet and installed a RDT because of the oil being introduced ahead of the turbo. The solid state GP controller and relay is on the passenger side valve cover, be sure to grab it. Good luck.
 

Diesel JD

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PM me your phone # and I'll text you a pic of my solid state controller when it gets light out. As far as the "latching relay" I may be speaking out of turn in using that term, but you probably know all about how nasty it can be if you have had IDIs before. The problem was Ford forgot to failsafe the latching relay and often failure mode was that it stuck in the "on" position and fried the glow plugs. I'm convinced this led to a lot of engine damage when people tried to remove the resultant mess. I feel very confident with your skill level you should make your own larger exhaust flange for the ATS, they don't always give good customer service and hey you can do it yourself. Likewise, I don't know how big a pipe you can bend in your shop but if you have the tools to do it I can't see why you wouldn't just get your own piece of 3" tubing from NAPA or a big truck store or wherever and bend your own downpipe. If not, then do some digging, one member here chopped and welded a stock 3" downpipe intended for a 94-97 PSD to fit an ATS factory turbo, I know you could figure this out yourself but why reinvent the wheel, he did a nice clean job and with your tools it'll be easy.
 

rjjp

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Thank you OLDBULL, I'm not verry good at spelling, especially when I'm tired.
 

NMB2

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here is my J-yard treasure from today. After looking at the pics I took in the dark I realized that I left the j-yard so fast I forgot the damn turbo hat thing that connects turbo to intake manifold. NO biggy, I will just have to go back and get it tomorrow, I left it in the passenger seat.

onto the pictures:

This is what $135 got me, (plus the missing peice i have to go back and get)

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but the money is of no importance, the bigger price I paid was this:

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I spent from 0900 tuesday to 0100 wednesday at the range doing zero/qual and night fire, in the 110* weather, Full battle rattle. Then I go out and get the **** burnt out of me today. I'm hurting to say the least.
 

NMB2

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also, Is this just a Garrett T-3? Where can I find the right rebuild kit for this turbo? I was looking at some for T3's (yes I realize most are different internally), but most were around $80. Thats worth it just for the extra assurance.
 
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NMB2

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Here are better pictures of everything now.

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NMB2

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little bit of an Update: I got to come home from the field over the weekend and now I'm about to go back out but I was able to get the turbo pulled apart, there seems to be nothing damaged, just stiff bearings. So I will order the rebuild kit ( $80 ) and should be good as new. I was able to trace the flanges for the up and down pipes and get them cut out. Now I just need to decide on what size pipe. It seems the best sizes would be 2.5" for the up-pipe and 3" for the down pipe, does this sound about right??

Once I rebuild the turbo and get it bolted on, I will be able to start routing exhaust. Also, I have the C6 now and plan to swap to the ZF5, any major differences in th transmissions I should know about before I start making exhaust peices?
 

icanfixall

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Have the turbo balanced before you install it on the truck. They turn in excess of 120,000 rpm. They are balanced to the a 10th of a gram...
 

Diesel JD

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You def want 3" or bigger down pipe. The bigger you go the more clearance issues with the firewall you'll have and this is why Ford went with the lame crushed up downpipe you discarded. IDK if you could see any benefit above 3" for a downpipe or not. 2.5 is pretty standard for your up pipe, but here's an idea..since you are in a position to make your own stuff how about 2 up pipes one for each side as in the Hypermax pulse turbo? I don't know how that would work with the factory turbo...just throwing out the idea.
 
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