Fan clutch removal.

[S-west]

Are there any tricks that you guys know to remove a stubborn fan clutch? I have a pry bar wedged on the crank pulley bolts and have a wrench with a 3 foot pipe on the end and I cannot loosen it. I even whacked the wrench with a sledge hammer. Yes i do know it has left handed threads. I just can't get it loose. And my buddy put it on 3 months ago when it was his truck So it's not rusted on, he just way over tightened it apparently

 

[hesutton]

Heat the sucker with a bottle torch and give it a try. If thread locker (I never put it on the fan clutch........ only anti-sieze) was used..... the heat will soften it up.

Several guys have had success with an air hammer.

As long as the pulley isn't moving on you, keep at it....... it will come off. Just keep smacking it toward the right and sooner or later it'll break loose.


Heath

 

[S-west]

Ok I'll try the heat. And I think it's not coming loose with the hammer because the pry bar has a little bit of give so its absorbing some of the force

 

[S-west]

Well it came off! Thanks. Now does anybody know the torque specs on the water pump?

 

[Jbevs]

Tight enough it won't fly off and take out the rad, loose enough to get back off.

 

[icanfixall]

The water pump bolts have a very low torque. You will feel it tighten up and thats about it. Watch the top and bottom bolts. They require some thread sealant because they enter the oil side of the engine. Oil will leak out past the threads and make a horrible mess over time. I hope you placed a piece of cardboard or plywood covering the radiater from the fan blades. Its nice protection of an expensive radiater. Honestly I use a few drops of blue loctite on thos fan nut threads. These engine stop so suddenly they sometimes will loosen the fan nut. Then it continues turning till it falls off and kills the radiater. The nut torque on the fan nut is 160 lb so make sure you get it tight. You do not want it loosening up on you someday. Are you replacing the water pump or the fan clutch or both... I have not read what your doing in this area yet.

 

[S-west]

Well the water pump is a few months old but the gasket around it started leaking so I am replacing the gasket

 

[icanfixall]

Wow.. Thats an uncommon problem.

 

[S-west]

Ya the kid who did it didn't put enough gasket sealer I think. He also did the lift pump at the same time and that gasket is also leaking pretty bad. So that's the next thing to do, and after that hopefully I will be able to focus on plumbing the Holset turbo I got for it

 

[RLDSL]

If the gasket on the water pump was leaking, you may have a pitted water pump plate. This is a fairly common problem . i had a few spare plates and couldnt get one to seal with regular sealer , I wound up picking the best plate and taking a TON of gray RTV and litterally spackeling that crud on like filling a wall hole over the areas where the gasket would sit till there was a basically level surface then setting a bead around the bolt line and letting it firm up and dressing teh pump side of the gasket and setting teh mess together and it finally passed a pressure test. If you have a bad plate and have to do this, be very careful not to use too much to where it will squeeze out into your cooling system or it will clog your radiator, you only want to fill the pits and gaps.

 

[Mulochico]

Well it came off! Thanks. Now does anybody know the torque specs on the water pump?

As per my Haynes diesel repair manual:
Water pump bolts 15 ft-lbs
Fan clutch to water pump 45-120 lbs