F350 axle question...

George D.

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The CV axles are good and plent strong oily thing bad about them is the boot can trap water if you do any fording
 

White Trash

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If you are after sharper turning there are better alternatives that are cheaper and will turn sharper than the RCV's. Don't get my wrong, the RCV's are a BAD ASS setup but for a DD they will wear quickly because they are soft so they don't shatter under extreme load. You can get yukon CroMo shafts and have Branik machine clearance them then use GOOD u joints in them and have tighter turning than your axle can physically allow or your steering box will put out unless you use short steering arms. :D
 

Clydesdale

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PM me White Trash, or call me...

OR IM me...

mr_acheson@rocketmail is Yahoo IM addy

208.353.1793 is the phone
 

George_7.3IDI

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I'm not sure what the current brand of u joint is that is in my truck at the moment since I've never serviced them... but I was told about a year ago when I got an alignment that they were starting to become a bit loose.

@ White Trash... If what you say is true that is interesting but I'm not looking to end up having to get a bunch of custom machining work done. I'd be happier with an off the shelf item that doesn't need to be reworked but would provide better turning radius for when I'm in 4x4 for most of the winter. Besides with the RCV Performance's "you break it we replace it" warranty I would think that would cover the CV joints if they ever fail though I guess I'd have to confirm that so I'm not totally sure.

On another note my truck definitely has ball joints and as was noted previously I believe anything '92 or newer came from the factory with ball joints. If my ball joints ever fail though I've been thinking that I would seriously consider the Dynatrac ProSteer Ball Joints they are expensive but they are also made in the USA and built from chromoly steel. Additionally I've heard that they are designed to be rebuildable with basic hand tools while in place on the vehicle and that the rebuild kits will be cheaper than the cost of new ball joints. In any case that's just my $0.02

George
 

White Trash

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Check out BRANIK'S web site they will sell you already machined shafts ready to go that will not fail in your application. Nothing super fancy about it just tried and true machining for clearance. In all reality you probably don't need something that fancy, a longer pitman arm on your steering box will give you more throw and shorter turning radius than what you have now. The stock 60 shafts will hit at around 38* of turning angle from straight.
 
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