F 350 4x hub stuck on...OMG

[riotwarrior]

Well I have been trying to get my LH front wheel bearings done. RH side completed no issues...replaced some warn parts but all good.

Now the LH side I started with I took off 6 bolt outer portion of manual hub, now I just remove large circlip and slide out hub...there is no clip on the stub axle...don't know why but none....

WELL MAY the DEVIL himself musta put that sucker on, try as I could, I could not slide the locking hub out of the wheel hub...NO WAY AT ALL..

So that was all yesterday...

Today, attempt again....NO CAN DO.

HEAT that lil double splined gear that goes on stub axle and engauges manual hub still no luck...MORE heat...no luck...NOW MOREMOREMORE heat no can do...

Took the grinder...cut a circular cut about 3 inches from outer edge of wheel hub right through the whole hub. Then two cuts inline with the axle to make two pieces of the outter wheel hub.

Now I managed to split the aluminum hub off the rest of the stuck hub. and the whole thing is no showing the small double splined gear.

OK it's like this...heat that gear now that I have access...LOTS OF heat....try to beat a nice split into it with the cold chisel....um nope...so out with torch and man I don't think I have ever done such delicate cutting...slowly cutting away the gear down to the stub axle and not damaging the stub axle...did that in two places 180 degrees apart and hammered and pried those two parts off the stub axle finally....will post pics later when I get em loaded to photo bucket...but trust me...it was a freakin night mare...good thing I didn't sell my other 60...Woot...

stuck on

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cutting around hub

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splitting hub

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cutting gear off...ugh...sooooo carefully

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gear cut and now prying it off splines...finally

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Prying off second part....ugh

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LAST BUT NOT LEAST..THOSE TWO LIL PARTS I TOOK OFF....FINALLY

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Now I can go back out there....and finish removing brake rotor and then replace that hub with one from my other 60....

 

[towcat]

this is going to be interesting. heat, hammer, chisel. all the items for good carnage.
go find a D50 hub in the wrecking yard before pulling apart a complete D60

 

[riotwarrior]

this is going to be interesting. heat, hammer, chisel. all the items for good carnage.
go find a D50 hub in the wrecking yard before pulling apart a complete D60

Interesting is quite a substantial understatement...let me tell you....and I'm supposed to be going wheeling this afternoon for a 70MILE 4x4 trip hard core...adding a front locker in when done this part....got me a Spartan lunch box locker...going to be even MORE fun ..

I have a complete 60 I'm gonna rob for parts...no 50's around here anyway!...just a few 60's

 

[towcat]

looks like the orig parts was heat seized to begin with. yup......you were entertained today.

 

[subway]

That's some impressive torch surgery!

 

[riotwarrior]

That's some impressive torch surgery!

Thank you very much, I was slow and methodical, doing my best to not nick my axle. All in all it turned out ok, a little filing on the splines as I could see some damage from previous work...and I did nick it with the cold chisel when clearing slag from the torch.

Once all filed the other splined portion of another hub slid right one perfectly smooth no binding and not sloppy.

brake cleaned it all up and then greased it up nice and assembled the other hub I had removed for the job.

One thing both hubs looked like this upon opening up and removing the outer locking dials....OMG...

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Nice eh packed with saw dust...just like my friggen cowel was and the Heater is too....amazingly packed!

This is the end result of all my labour today....now I gotta get that Spartan Locker in...ugh...

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Test drove it and all I can say is it works...love it!

 

[gdhillon]

Lookn good Al, maybe the guy used to take it 4x4ing in sawdust?

 

[BrandonMag]

Nicely done, sir!

(That looks like it was as big a pain in the ass as getting my passenger side Dana 50 hub off.)

 

[Iowa 73]

Just an FYI for next time: the lockout hub can bind and not come out if you have a bad knuckle ujoint. The stub shaft will get cocked and place side pressure on the hub, and it will not come out. You need to use a pry bar on the stub shaft at the ujoint and a couple screws in the hub. Work at it and it will come out.

 

[riotwarrior]

Just an FYI for next time: the lockout hub can bind and not come out if you have a bad knuckle ujoint. The stub shaft will get cocked and place side pressure on the hub, and it will not come out. You need to use a pry bar on the stub shaft at the ujoint and a couple screws in the hub. Work at it and it will come out.

If you even remotely think I did all that without eliminating all other options available to me you are sadly mistaken. This is not my first 4x and 4x wheel bearing job... Seriously to think I didn't exercise all options to me before destroying a perfectly good usable hub....you must think I'm not very capable......

Ya ..pryed, hammered, heated, cooled, lubed, tried slide hammer no fit, tried puller no fit....ya...NO NO NO...and I got's the tools man...I got's the tools...and surely very much more than capable to use em!

Thanks for the suggestion though, it didn't work either!

 

[icanfixall]

Ouch... But filled with sawdust... Who does that.. A used car lot or what... I understand sawdust in the rear differancial oil will make a bad gear and bearing set sound great... Till its driven off the lot... then it goes to hell quickly.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ouch... But filled with sawdust... Who does that.. A used car lot or what... I understand sawdust in the rear differancial oil will make a bad gear and bearing set sound great... Till its driven off the lot... then it goes to hell quickly.

Gary the truck was used almost exclusively on logging landings as a service truck. Every fricken crevice crack and opening everywhere is stuffed with sawdust...in the heater box...in the cowl, between fuel tank and skid plate....everywhere is covered in sawdust and dirt/mud/grease/oil etc...*****

On another note, the roll pin holding the cross shaft in place was well..argumentative and it was an argument I did not want to pursue, thus no locker installed. There was however about an inch of water in the pumpkin...ugh!....so I cleaned it all up inside best I can, gears look ok just a lil surface rust on outer edge of ring gear...all others fine.

Take a look here at the cleaned, and cloverthinner wiped surface all prepped and RTV'd...did similar to the cover as well...then tightened down just snug ....let sit over night to cure, tomorrow I'll torque the cover correctly. I like to let my RTV set prior to full torque!

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did the outside of bolt holes on the cover then bolted it in place!

Was told along time ago....things need to be well...better than sterile clean...body's fight infections....parts have to go together perfectly the first time....or you do it again! No room for error!