E4OD problems

[OLDBULL8]

Seen lot's of E4OD trannies, never seen one with a tube like that coming out of the dust cover. Is that where the fluid is coming from, or is it from the short vertical tube? What is the color of the fluid? Red or Brown? Any oil on the dip stick yet? There is a vent on top of the tranny, clean around it, then remove and check for plugged.

 

[7river]

Seen lot's of E4OD trannies, never seen one with a tube like that coming out of the dust cover. Is that where the fluid is coming from, or is it from the short vertical tube? What is the color of the fluid? Red or Brown? Any oil on the dip stick yet? There is a vent on top of the tranny, clean around it, then remove and check for plugged.

Ok, thanks OLDBULL8, I'll check that.
Fluid was clearly coming out this drain tube the first time, then at end of this long trip, it was everywhere and didn't seem like it was filling the container I had under the dust cover tube. Going 60 MPH so the air sprayed it. First time I was in traffic.
I'll crank her up and see if it leaks after I check this vent.

 

[trackspeeder]

Outside temp was about 80 deg. I only drove 65 with no real load but wife and little little ones... And my wife is small.
Maybe the cooler is clogged?
Whats the difference with a 4R100?

It's possible the cooler is plugged.
The 4R100 is an updated E4OD.

 

[trackspeeder]

If the tranny overheats it will blow out all it's fluid?
Or do you suspect the converter seal failed due to the heat?

Yes, the seal is known to fail in high heat conditions.

 

[7river]

Still didn't get to check the vent. (three kids and self Employed) Also going to pull the cooler lines and blow them out. I called Brian's truck shop in Arkansas. he was recommended as being a top notch tranny shop, only deals with the E4OD and 4R100's. He also suggested it may have over heated and to blow the cooler. Sounds like his units are expensive so I will hope it's just the cooler. He mentioned if the seal is bad may want to put a later TC in there that has more clutch material. Said the new one would have six bolts instead of four. Guess I will have to drill out the flywheel?
I'm going to run 3/8" aluminum lines for the cooler cause I have it left over from veggie conversion. Anyone know if it's a special fitting in the case or if I can just pull the adapter after I pull the lines and get a 3/8" adapter? I'll get the fittings for the rad cooler and factory plate cooler as well. Is there a kit for this? Seems there should be.

 

[icanfixall]

Most lines on the E4OD cooler to and from the trans are 5/16 stock from the factory. Later on sometime after 1989 when the first E4OD was installed in a truck they changed to 3/8 line. The return line enters the rear housing on the trans. That fitting on the trans is a check valve. Don't try to run without it. The purpose of that valve is to keep the atf in the torque converter when you shut down. If you allow the converter to MT you will not be able to drive off after a restart for several minutes plus the converter is running dry. I don't really think drilling a flex plate is the way to make a 6 bolt converter to fit. Its not just adding two more holes. You would have to redrill all 6 because of the circumfrancial demensions on the bolt pattern.... Brian probably is able to sell you a psd modified wheel that fits our cranks. The idi and psd cranks are way differant. We have 9 bolts and they have 10 and they are much bigger. I have the bts triple disc converter in my truck with the Upgraded BTS E4OD trans. The 4 bolts are able to hold the hp and torque easily plus... the stock units have 25 square inches of friction material where the triple discs have 150 square inches of material. We wont ever break one of those converters in our rigs. I installed my trans myself alone. It was pure hell. No floor jack will lift more than 17 inches. The trans needed 28 inches minum sitting on top of the trans lift dolly. Now don't think your going to drop the trans. Roll the 300+ lb trans off the jack. Tug it out from under the truck and then push the new trans under and lift it on the same jack. I built all kinds of stuff that I'm not proud of to get the truck high enoufh for the trans. Even then I had to turn the front wheels to lock. Then slide and tip the trans forwards under the edge of the truck. I was kinda like a high jumper never actually completely high enough getting over the bar when jumping. I tilted that damn trans everyway I could to get it under the truck. Then finally under and in place only to find out the engine was about 3 inches too high for the trans dolly jack. So dropping the truck... climbing in and out from under the rig wore this old man out in a hurry that summer. But at least it was cool under the truck in the shade.... Yes.. Its a job we all should do once and never again....

 

[Compu Doc]

You can get a multi disk torque converter in a 4 bolt design. I have one in my truck although not the one in the link provided. In the list it is part number D106

http://tpiconverters.com/converters/diesel-towing/

As for the seal itself the tranny would have to be pulled or the engine pulled. There is also a bushing behind the seal that should be replaced as well as the seal if that is the problem.

 

[trackspeeder]

Most lines on the E4OD cooler to and from the trans are 5/16 stock from the factory. Later on sometime after 1989 when the first E4OD was installed in a truck they changed to 3/8 line. The return line enters the rear housing on the trans. That fitting on the trans is a check valve. Don't try to run without it. The purpose of that valve is to keep the atf in the torque converter when you shut down. If you allow the converter to MT you will not be able to drive off after a restart for several minutes plus the converter is running dry. I don't really think drilling a flex plate is the way to make a 6 bolt converter to fit. Its not just adding two more holes. You would have to redrill all 6 because of the circumfrancial demensions on the bolt pattern.... Brian probably is able to sell you a psd modified wheel that fits our cranks. The idi and psd cranks are way differant. We have 9 bolts and they have 10 and they are much bigger. I have the bts triple disc converter in my truck with the Upgraded BTS E4OD trans. The 4 bolts are able to hold the hp and torque easily plus... the stock units have 25 square inches of friction material where the triple discs have 150 square inches of material. We wont ever break one of those converters in our rigs. I installed my trans myself alone. It was pure hell. No floor jack will lift more than 17 inches. The trans needed 28 inches minum sitting on top of the trans lift dolly. Now don't think your going to drop the trans. Roll the 300+ lb trans off the jack. Tug it out from under the truck and then push the new trans under and lift it on the same jack. I built all kinds of stuff that I'm not proud of to get the truck high enoufh for the trans. Even then I had to turn the front wheels to lock. Then slide and tip the trans forwards under the edge of the truck. I was kinda like a high jumper never actually completely high enough getting over the bar when jumping. I tilted that damn trans everyway I could to get it under the truck. Then finally under and in place only to find out the engine was about 3 inches too high for the trans dolly jack. So dropping the truck... climbing in and out from under the rig wore this old man out in a hurry that summer. But at least it was cool under the truck in the shade.... Yes.. Its a job we all should do once and never again....

The E4OD had 5/16" cooler lines to the end of production 1998. The 4R100 has 3/8" cooler lines with a pressure bypass to save the tranny if the coolers get plugged.

 

[Compu Doc]

The E4OD had 5/16" cooler lines to the end of production 1998. The 4R100 has 3/8" cooler lines with a pressure bypass to save the tranny if the coolers get plugged.

If you look at the Jasper site the transmission cooler they have is 3/8" that is required to be used on an RV. So it is possible to put a 3/8" cooler on any E4OD and probably should be done for anyone running one.

 

[trackspeeder]

If you look at the Jasper site the transmission cooler they have is 3/8" that is required to be used on an RV. So it is possible to put a 3/8" cooler on any E4OD and probably should be done for anyone running one.

Most coolers are plumed for 3/8" lines. The cooler lines themselves can be changed to 3/8" inch as well. You have to be creative with the fittings.

 

[7river]

Well the cooler wasn't plugged. Fluid that came out of it was dark red but not brown. Smelled good.
I'm really thankful for all the info everyone is giving. Just knowing which direction the fluid went in the cooler was a big help.

Not sure about the vent oldbull mentioned cleaning. The cap seems crimped on. Its not dirty or oily and moves free. Should I pry it off and stick a wire down there? If so and it was clogged at top, figure that would send crap down in the unit?

Now can't I take the cross member off that holds the rear tranny mount to get that thing down easier without a lift? I have very few shop tools, I know how to turn wrenches as I was a marine engineer for 13 years, but I don't know trucks or vans much...I learn quick.
Do you think it's worth it for me to try and pull it myself on the ground?
icanfixit's post makes think I should bring it to a shop. Were kinda tight on money right now.

 

[7river]

Noticed that the exhaust runs pretty close to those cooler lines, is there supposed to be a heat shield protecting the lines? If so, mine doesn't have any. Maybe I should make something up? then again still don't know if heat is the problem.

 

[trackspeeder]

Well the cooler wasn't plugged. Fluid that came out of it was dark red but not brown. Smelled good.
I'm really thankful for all the info everyone is giving. Just knowing which direction the fluid went in the cooler was a big help.

Not sure about the vent oldbull mentioned cleaning. The cap seems crimped on. Its not dirty or oily and moves free. Should I pry it off and stick a wire down there? If so and it was clogged at top, figure that would send crap down in the unit?

Now can't I take the cross member off that holds the rear tranny mount to get that thing down easier without a lift? I have very few shop tools, I know how to turn wrenches as I was a marine engineer for 13 years, but I don't know trucks or vans much...I learn quick.
Do you think it's worth it for me to try and pull it myself on the ground?
icanfixit's post makes think I should bring it to a shop. Were kinda tight on money right now.

If the cap moves around, don't remove it. The only way the vent would get plugged is if you sunk it in mud.

To remove the tranny rent, barrow, or take hostage, a tranny jack. It will make life easier.

Support the tranny with the jack then remove the cross member. Lower it and have a beer.

Have a few more beers to get the tranny out from under the vehicle.

 

[trackspeeder]

Noticed that the exhaust runs pretty close to those cooler lines, is there supposed to be a heat shield protecting the lines? If so, mine doesn't have any. Maybe I should make something up? then again still don't know if heat is the problem.

No. Exhaust heat wont bother the lines.

 

[7river]

If the cap moves around, don't remove it. The only way the vent would get plugged is if you sunk it in mud.

To remove the tranny rent, barrow, or take hostage, a tranny jack. It will make life easier.

Support the tranny with the jack then remove the cross member. Lower it and have a beer.

Have a few more beers to get the tranny out from under the vehicle.

So taking the cross member down is a regular way of doing it?
Do you have to knock out the studs holding it on?
How hi would I need to get the van to get the tranny out?