Dually brake drum removal

[G. Mann]

Sorry to give you the bad news but you are spitting in the wind trying to pull the drums. From the pics you have the same rear end I have [I just did the brakes] and you HAVE TO PULL THE HUBS. As soon as you pull the hubs you will see the drums are held on to the back side of the hubs by the lug bolts. You have to drive out the lug bolts and the drums will come off nicely.

Good time to replace seals and bearings while you have it apart as well. Auto Zone sells a nice big thin wall socket to get the hub nut off and to retork it properly.

Good Luck

 

[suv7734]

Another handy trick for helping get it off next time is to drill and tap two pusher bolt holes. Drill the holes on opposite sides of the drum in between the wheel stud holes and then tap them for 3/8" UNF thread. Next time you go to pull the drum (use the silicone grease as OMBill says) just thread two 3/8" UNF bolts into the holes and as you tighten them up it will push the drum away from the hub flange. If it is really tight a few thumps with the BFH, and the pressure from the bolts, usually pops it right off.

 

[RLDSL]

Well, I finally got the things off.
1 BFH
1/2 can of Kroil
2 days soaking
1 mangled forehead
356 choruses of " Gee golly gosh darn"

Just another day in the repair hell known as Ford

Looks like I got my moneys worth out of the shoes. New drum time. I might have been able to use one of them, but I whacked it just a little too hard

Thanks--------Robert

 

[RLDSL]

There is a Ford Special Service Tool for removing brake drums:

Isn't that also the ford special tool for removing headlights, dashboards, fuel tanks, cab mounts, windshields, backseat drivers......

--------Robert,

 

[RLDSL]

omb,
I remember reading something like that a while back with some other car/truck. I couldn't remember any details so I wasn't going to post anything.

Good advice on the Kroil stuff. I've never heard of it but I'm going to find some for when I get a rountuit wrt working on my own rear brakes.

Mike

www.kanolabs.com you can order it direct, andthey usually have a deal for a free can of one of the other things, so you can buy a can of Aero Kroil and get a can of Sili Kroil free, or one of their other goodies if there's something else you need. I usually get it at the HVAC supply house.
It's the best thing made for old nasty rusted parts. I've been using it for years, nothing else comes close.

---------Robert

 

[towcat]

Sorry to give you the bad news but you are spitting in the wind trying to pull the drums. From the pics you have the same rear end I have [I just did the brakes] and you HAVE TO PULL THE HUBS. As soon as you pull the hubs you will see the drums are held on to the back side of the hubs by the lug bolts. You have to drive out the lug bolts and the drums will come off nicely.

Good time to replace seals and bearings while you have it apart as well. Auto Zone sells a nice big thin wall socket to get the hub nut off and to retork it properly.

Good Luck

If your rear looks like this....the drums will slip off
one in the pics are commercial dually

 

[JPR]

I had the left SRW drum locked on a few years ago. Had to pull the axle shaft and then hub with brake drum together. Once I had the drum off and sitting on a couple of 2x4's, it was no problem driving the hub out. In the end, it was quicker to pull the hub and drum than the 30-45 min I had already spent fighting it. I always replace the hub seal when doing the rear brakes, so the hub is coming off anyway.

 

[G. Mann]

OK... now I'm really confused... just what rear end do I have in my 85 F250?

My drums are held on the back side of the hubs with the lug bolts and the hub has to come off to get to the brakes, the lug bolts have to be driven out to get the drums off.

I have 3 inch shoes/ 12 inch drums, and every new 3 inch drum I've looked at won't fit cause the center hole is to small by about 1/8th inch.

My hubs/drums look like the original posters pic in this thread. Anybody that can give me some ID help on my rearend?

 

[towcat]

OK... now I'm really confused... just what rear end do I have in my 85 F250?

My drums are held on the back side of the hubs with the lug bolts and the hub has to come off to get to the brakes, the lug bolts have to be driven out to get the drums off.

I have 3 inch shoes/ 12 inch drums, and every new 3 inch drum I've looked at won't fit cause the center hole is to small by about 1/8th inch.

My hubs/drums look like the original posters pic in this thread. Anybody that can give me some ID help on my rearend?

sounds like you have a dana70.
snap a pic of the rear cover and post it.
that's the best way to help you ID your truck's rear.

 

[gandalf]

This site may help you identify your axle. It has ratios and cover shapes.

Axle Identification

I've always found that simple pictures help.

 

[RLDSL]

Robert, keep in mind that a worn out open diff will act like a posi. Had the same scenario on Goldie and found worn spider gears, ring and pinion and worn inner axle shaft bearings.
If ya got time it might not hurt to get in there and take a peek also.
I swapped the whole rear axle assembly out and the vibration I experienced was gone, so was my posi.

Well, I got the cover off it it looks like posi . Now if I can just figure out which one and what I want to do with it
here's the beast

--------Robert

 

[hesutton]

OK... now I'm really confused... just what rear end do I have in my 85 F250?

My drums are held on the back side of the hubs with the lug bolts and the hub has to come off to get to the brakes, the lug bolts have to be driven out to get the drums off.

I have 3 inch shoes/ 12 inch drums, and every new 3 inch drum I've looked at won't fit cause the center hole is to small by about 1/8th inch.

My hubs/drums look like the original posters pic in this thread. Anybody that can give me some ID help on my rearend?

It's a Dana 70. They started using Ford/Sterling 10.25's in '86.

Heath