Doomsday Dually Project

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes that is a crank repair sleeve. It's designed to make the back of the crank where the sleeve rides smooth. The seal lip will leave a small groove in the crank after many millions of times of the crank rotating around inside of the seal. You can't install the repair sleeve with the seal and plate installed. before you try to install the sleeve, be 100% sure that there isn't one already on there. If there is, you need to remove the old one first. I use a sharp chisel, held at a pretty flat angle to the back of the crank and break it loose. I hold the chisel close to parallel to the part of the crank with the flywheel bolt holes in it. You want to damage the old sleeve but not the crank. Since the sleeves are made of such this material, once you damage the old sleeve, you will be able to peel it away from the crank fairly easily. Next, make 100% sure (again) that the place on the crank where the sleeve goes is smooth. If not, you will damage the new sleeve on installation and the seal will leak. I "gat" ti drop the transmission and replace the sleeve in an ambulance one time because the guy who built the engine didn't bother to remove the burr that was on the seal area of the crank. I just used a small flat file to smooth out the burr. After I was done, it didn't leak. We also put a thin coat of red Lock Tite on the inside of the sleeve where it sits against the crank. I still do that today even though I'm not sure that you need to. It is a slight press fit so the new sleeve should hold without the Lock Tite, but that's one habit that I still keep, right, wrong, or otherwise.

 

[Cant Write]

Or here’s another possible candidate...

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[Lumberjackchuck]

R&D turbo cam is degree’d in.

Justin’s cheat sheet specifies intake centerline as 112* +/- 2*

Picked up a used JEGS degree kit from someone local and it worked okay. I ended up tack welding some roundstock in the old lifter I’m throwing out anyway to get a solid measurement. Turned it over a few times and the max lift and base circle readings stayed the same so I took my measurements +/- .020 from the max and my centerline was 110.5* with the cam and crank dot to dot.

Justin said it should be dot to dot on his newer cams, but I’m glad I checked it anyway.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Yes that is a crank repair sleeve. It's designed to make the back of the crank where the sleeve rides smooth. The seal lip will leave a small groove in the crank after many millions of times of the crank rotating around inside of the seal. You can't install the repair sleeve with the seal and plate installed. before you try to install the sleeve, be 100% sure that there isn't one already on there. If there is, you need to remove the old one first. I use a sharp chisel, held at a pretty flat angle to the back of the crank and break it loose. I hold the chisel close to parallel to the part of the crank with the flywheel bolt holes in it. You want to damage the old sleeve but not the crank. Since the sleeves are made of such this material, once you damage the old sleeve, you will be able to peel it away from the crank fairly easily. Next, make 100% sure (again) that the place on the crank where the sleeve goes is smooth. If not, you will damage the new sleeve on installation and the seal will leak. I "gat" ti drop the transmission and replace the sleeve in an ambulance one time because the guy who built the engine didn't bother to remove the burr that was on the seal area of the crank. I just used a small flat file to smooth out the burr. After I was done, it didn't leak. We also put a thin coat of red Lock Tite on the inside of the sleeve where it sits against the crank. I still do that today even though I'm not sure that you need to. It is a slight press fit so the new sleeve should hold without the Lock Tite, but that's one habit that I still keep, right, wrong, or otherwise.

You were right, there was another sleeve on there and a pretty good groove in it. Chiseled it, maybe got one little ding in the crank . And I put red loctite on the new one like you suggested.

Just a question about this rear seal though. Should it be flush with the crank? I installed the rear plate and the seal is sticking out slightly beyond the crankshaft. The inner seal piece is riding on the crank, so I think it should be fine. That outer rubber piece might ride on the nose of the flywheel.

Maybe I didn’t press the seal deep enough or the RTV is on too thick.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It probably wasn't the RTV. I like to install the seal flush with the outer lip that goes around it and is part of the plate. As long as the ding wasn't in the part of the crank where the sleeve sits and you installed the seal dry, you'll probably be fine.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

What’s everyone’s experience with this TA-31 RTV. Stuff is still kinda tacky even after 24 hrs… Seems like it hasn’t fully cured. Not sure if that’s normal for this product, definitely not like the permatex RTV I’m used to.

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[Nero]

Body sealant will do that, it's meant to allow for flex. Watched my old man use stuff like that for years. He used to paint cars for 30 years.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Body sealant will do that, it's meant to allow for flex. Watched my old man use stuff like that for years. He used to paint cars for 30 years.

Lol thanks for talking me off the ledge. I was ready to pull everything apart and clean it again.

Yeah I guess this stuff is supposed to be more tacky and that’s why people seem to like it. Doesn’t harden and get brittle like normal RTV.

Also doesn’t smell like vinegar and get you high

 

[Jesus Freak]

Or here’s another possible candidate...

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I love the thread within the thread here.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Heads are torqued. Time for a beer. I only went to 150 ft lbs because that’s the highest my torque wrench goes .

I’m afraid this is as far as I go for now. Decided I want new pushrods now. I took a look and I have no copper left on the tips of any of them. Looks like it’s just a copper coating on a steel ball at the rocker end. Atleast my magnet tells me so.

Anyone know where to get decent pushrods for this truck?

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[IDIBRONCO]

Some pushrods don't have the copper coating. It's been 5 1/2 years, but I'm pretty sure that the Sealed Power ones that I used didn't have the copper coating.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Some pushrods don't have the copper coating. It's been 5 1/2 years, but I'm pretty sure that the Sealed Power ones that I used didn't have the copper coating.

Ahhh okay. I was under the impression that the copper was necessary to protect the rockers. If it doesn’t matter I don’t mind reusing the old. I don’t even know if these pushrods are stock. For all I know I’m like the 7th owner

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Most do have it. I don't think that it can all be worn away on every push rod. At least not without serious wear grooves on both the push rods and rockers.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I think that the copper coating is to mark which end goes up. It isn't intended as a wear layer. I'll try to dig up the IH manual and re-read that section.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

Scratching my head here… are the crank pulley and water pump supposed to line up? They’re a bit staggered here and I don’t remember what it was like coming off.

Dampener is fully seated. I measured 0.200” off of the oil pan so I don’t think I should be backing that off any.

The water pump is a new one… ac delco brand

And I have a washer/spacer behind the crank pulley and one in front.

For the water pump I just have a washer in front.

That’s how it came apart anyways.

Edit: lol I’m wondering now if I put the water pump pulley on backwards

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