Couple of questions

[79jasper]

Anyone be interested in a DIY to remove the key interlock thing? (Push to release) on OBS trucks.
Would there be a easy way to seperate the cargo light from the dome light? My 79 Chevy had a separate switch up above the drivers seatbelt.
Also would there be a way to delay the wipers from the washer sprayer? Most newer cars have about at least a second delay between spraying and the wipers moving. I believe this could help prolong wiper and windshield life.
If anyone has any suggestions post them up. Also if anyone has any random miscellaneous questions like mine, post em up.


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[LCAM-01XA]

Yes on the interlock thing, always hated them basterds, and we got a 460-powered OBS that can really use losing that stupid feature.

There may be a diode between the cargo light and the dome light. On older trucks when you turn the switch all the way to the left it is the cargo light that receives the current, and the dome light gets power from it via said diode. When your door is open, however, it is the dome light that receives the power, and the diode blocks the cargo light from powering up. I always thought that's a dumb design so I flipped the diode around, now when I open doors both cargo and dome lights come on together, while if I turn the switch all the way to the left only the cargo light powers up. So tell me what your truck does now, and what you want it to do, and I'll try to come up with a way for you to make it happen.

The wipers delay could possibly be achieved via a small cap wired inline somewhere. Lemme look at the circuit diagrams to see how exactly that mess works, and I'll get back to you.

 

[79jasper]

I can make a new thread for the interlock.
Currently rather I open a door or turn the switch, both come on.
I wouldn't be against adding a separate switch. Also I wander how great the factory wiring is.
Reason being, I added brighter bulbs to the dome and cargo. At first I only had one brighter bulb in the cargo and one factory bulb, in which the dome was pretty dang bright. But now that the factory bulb burnt out and both are the silver stars, I can tell the power is being sucked down. It's still fairly bright, but not like before.
I guess could say I wouldn't be against putting both on switches. I leave my drivers door open a lot when I'm being a mobile mechanic, and would sort of like the option of killing the lights.


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[LCAM-01XA]

Older trucks have a 4-wire harness for the lights - constant 12V for map lights, door-trigger for dome light, switch-trigger for cargo lamp (and via diode to dome light again), and ground for cargo lamp (since it's a plastic housing, dome and map lights ground thru cab sheetmetal). Sounds like in your truck Ford pulled another bean-counting move and spliced the cargo and dome lights together at the lamp-end of the harness. This allows them to power both with a single wire (as opposed to two separate wires like how older trucks are) which frees up a circuit in the 4-wire harness to use as a power for the hi-mount brake light. Thus no need to change the harness running under door and up the B-pillar, just the dash harness got changed but. But I'll have to confirm that, and truck to do so is not here right now). What all that means to you is there is no easy way to separate the dome and cargo lamps, if one is powered so will be the other one. You can disable door jamb switches tho, and leave the lights to power off the main lights switch only. Or unplug just driver-side switch, but leave passenger-side connected, this will kill the lights when driver's door is open but they can still be powered via the dash switch or the passenger's door.

Factory wiring is IIRC 16awg. GM uses that to power headlights for hours on end thru the night, and it doesn't burn out. I think you'll be fine with your slightly brighter bulbs, this is not a H3 situation where a 100W bulb drops right in the place of a 55W one.

 

[79jasper]

Oh…
Maybe I could put a small switch down low to cut the power to the door switch?
That way I could keep it normal when I want it.
Somewhere I have the cargo light switch from my Chevy. Maybe I could just tap in the factory wire up there, then go to the cargo light.
On my Chevy, I don't think I could turn the light on by itself, it just took it out of the circuit. Can't remember though.


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[LCAM-01XA]

Oh yeah, the wiring for the driver side door switch goes right behind the left kick panel under the dash, just trace the 3-wire harness coming from the door switch and splice a lighted mini-rocker switch inline with one of its wires. Which wire to chose depends on what you want to come on, as in addition to the dome/cargo lights it that door switch also engages the annoying chime under the dash - if you want both lights off and chime silenced with door open (I would, lol) then you need to interrupt the door switch power feed, good chance that's a light-green wire with a yellow stripe. Cut that and install the mini-rocker in the kick panel or wherever else you want it, then connect the LG/Y wire coming from the dash to the "power" terminal of the rocker, connect the LG/Y going to the door switch to the "load" terminal of the rocker, and then ground the "ground" or "earth" terminal of the rocker. As a result when switch is on for normal operation of dome/cargo light and dash chime the switch will glow in whatever color you chose when you were buying it, to disable the door switch just trip the rocker to off and if its own indicator light shuts off you're good to go.

 

[79jasper]

Sweet.
I would probably mount it down low somewhere. Who knows really. Lol


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[BDOGONE]

Switch to LED lamps. No heat. Low draw. Their readily available.


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[79jasper]

Actually was going to do that eventually.


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[79jasper]

Well after some searching and closer attention to my truck, I've noticed if I spray right after I just sprayed, it's quick. Wipers will move maybe a few inches before the window is soaked down. Apparently the newer trucks have a check valve in the line, so I think I'll add one.
Would still be nice for more of a delay, but it's not that big of a deal. At least until I get a new windshield. Lol

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[4x4manonbroke]

I notice this in the Bus' i work on too .. they have a small filter/check valve .. I will see if i can get a part # for this too ..

 

[79jasper]

That'd be great.
I really had no idea where I'd get one that would work. Lol

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[LCAM-01XA]

Wait, what do you want exactly? For the spray to come one first, then the wipers to move, right? Does that check valve you mention serve to prevent washer fluid from raining back into its tank? Also apologies for not getting back to you on the delay, I ain't got the OBS wiring diagrams yet, and what I have now is for bricks and older, which is a different system.

 

[79jasper]

All I have is a SD engine/pcm/IDM diagram. Lol
And yes, spray before wipe.
Correct, just keeps it from draining back to the tank.
I seem to get maybe 6 months (at most) out of wipers.

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[LCAM-01XA]

What wipers are you using? Expensive doesn't necessarily mean good...