Cost of convertnig Dually to SRW?

fields_mj

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I'm considering a purchase of a 2000 crewcab dually that currently has a flatbed on it. For my needs, the added width of the dually would actually be a problem, but I could live with it for a while if need be. I'm wondering what it would cost to find SRW axle and install it?

I'd be working in my driveway, so I'm also curious on the difficulty of such a project, and what parts of the process should be left to a good mechanic with the appropriate tools. I'm very mechanically inclined, but I'm limited to an impact, wrenches, sockets, stick welder, angle grinders, and the all important hammer... I've done most of the work to my '93 over the years, but bigger repairs (swapping gears, new front axle, anything injector/fuel related beyond filters and returnline kits) I've delegated to a mechanic. Some times do to a lack of tools, some times do to a lack of facilities, and sometimes do to a lack of time. Since I'm keeping the '93, I'll have the time to do the work, and I'm confident that mechanically I'm up to the task, but I've never done it and I need an idea of what I would be signing up for before I go spending any $$.

Thanks,
Mark
 

IDIoit

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a rearend swap isnt all that bad.
rearends from 99- 2000's are different in the aspects of brake caliper location, and the hub bolt mounts are different.
if you had a complete rearend, this is a simple swap over.

altho ive been meaning to search how to change over the hubs from DRW to SRW on my 2002 F350.
a dualie would be nice, but a single rear wheel would be better for my fabrication plans.

basically, im subscribing :D
 

towcat

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depending on how fussy you are, you can make it expensive or not so bad.
the front will be more expensive than a older truck.
you will need to get a SRW unihub assy and possibly a SRW rotor. that's roughly $400/side new.
the rear if you're not fussy on the looks, you can mount a SRW wheel on a DRW axle with only a minor increase on the track width.
see below pics for an example of the increased offset.
i started with the blue boxed trailer which had a pickup DRW axle under it.
I removed the DRW box and mounted a SRW box and SRW wheels.
it's noticeable but not the end of the world bad.
hope this helps.
 

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fields_mj

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The truck I'm looking at is a flatbed so I presume that there wouldn't be any difference there. Id plan on getting a complete srw. Looks like they are around $500 new on ebay and half that used. Am I correct thinking that it would pretty much be a bolt on and go? Break connections and such already lined up?

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Double-S-Diesel

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on the front all ya gotta do is pull the dually adaptors, there is enough stud lenght for steel wheels, other wise for alum wheels ya can swap studs or swap bearings.
the only difference ive seen in the bearings from a srw to drw is the lenght of the studs (with exception to the e-99 late 99 stuff)
on the rear if its a pickup and not a cab / chassis to swap the rear end is one way, if you dont swap the axle the wheels will stick past a bed side.
 

fields_mj

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I guess I don't understand why I would need to change anything on the front axle. I *** thinking that it would be a matter of tracking down a srw axle and just swapping that out.

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snicklas

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You don't HAVE to do anything with the front axle, but you will have to carry 2 spares, a dually rim for the front, and a single for the rear.... A dully truck has an adapter on the front so a dually rim, turned dish out will fit in the proper orientation with the bearings, and sit inside the fender were it belongs. If you put a standard rim on a dually front axle, the wheel will stick out of the front wheel well, and may put a side load on the bearings..... with the setup it would look like a ricer with the wheels stuck way out......

So, I would recommend doing the full conversion and make all 4 wheels singles, or leave them all duals..........
 

LCAM-01XA

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I'm considering a purchase of a 2000 crewcab dually that currently has a flatbed on it. For my needs, the added width of the dually would actually be a problem, but I could live with it for a while if need be.
Two questions here, does the current flat bed cover the dual rear wheels completely width-wise? And when you go SRW, do you plan on losing this bed and either dropping a pickup box in its place or just going with a narrower flat bed? We know a fella who switched his DRW pickup-box truck to a 7ft flat bed and kept the dually rear axle under it and only singled-out the front axle mostly so he can run wider wheels and tires for better flotation in his fields. 90% of the time he runs identical fat single wheels on the factory DRW rear axle and the bed covers them completely but they do not sit too far in under it to look stupid. Then when he decides to load up with something heavy or hook up to the big horse trailer he just pulls the singles from the rear axle and reinstalls the duals it came with from the factory - the outer wheels are now wider than the bed and stick out a bit, but not too much to make it look stupid, and he has a pair of narrow fender flares he pins in place to cover them so they don't sling mud and stones at his own mirrors or whatever happens to be behind him. Kinda the best of both world, if we had a flat bed on any of our trucks we'd be doing what he's doing :D
 

Double-S-Diesel

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you need not change the front the dually adapters bolt on to a standard axle. only difference in lenght of the studs on the wheel bearing, i ran singel wheels up front on my 99 for a while until I got a set of dual wheels
 

fields_mj

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Thanks for all the info. Looks like the swap should be well under $1K, and doable in the drive way for the most part.

I went and took a look at the truck last week and decided it was a no-go. The body was in much worse shape than my '93. Huge holes rusted through both rear cab corners, bottom of the cab was rusted through all the way across on the back. Interior was in so-so shape from what I could see. Price was $8500. It's missing the manual transmission and transfer case, but the cost included replacing/installing those. Several parts of the dash were laying in the rear seat. Not sure if the price included getting all that put back in and working or not. By the time I converted it to SRW, I figure I would be closing in on $10K. Not sure if I'd have room in that $10K for a SRW bed or not, but even if it did, I'd be looking at another $3~$4K or more to deal with the cancer, and at that point I'm in the ball park of a truck that doesn't need any of that work.

Thanks for all the info though. As I continue my search for my next vehicle, it opens up my search criteria.

Thanks again,
Mark
 

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