icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Can anyone tell me part number for the cold advance and fast idle coolant sensor found behind the thermostat housing? I searched the PARTS BIN but found no senders of any kind. Thanks...
Coolant sensor
- Thread starter icanfixall
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
E8TZ9E939A
It may be listed under a switch, not sensor.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
It may be listed under a switch, not sensor.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Problem solved!!! This friggen "switch had grounded out causing all my electrical issues. SOOOO. How does the plug fit on the electrical switch??? It has a brass and a copper side. The copper side is hot from the plug and wires. Sounds stupid simple but you can imagine installing a replacement and getting these two plug connections on the wrong spade I'm thinking copper spade to copper connector in the plug.. But just have no idea. Going to check the new switch to see what side is hot or open. May have to warm it up to 120 degrees so it opens and acts to shut off the fast idle and the cold electrical advance in the injection pump. "found" three of them in the Pic n Pull today.....
My understanding is it doesn't matter, it's just two pins right? It should be closed cold and open at 120. I might be wrong but that's my understanding.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I don't think it matters.
It's a normally closed switch, and opens at whatever temp.
But it shouldn't be grounding either pins.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
It's a normally closed switch, and opens at whatever temp.
But it shouldn't be grounding either pins.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Thanks for the reply's. In the home electrical field the copper side is the ground. The wide blade is the ground if you have the two spade wall plugs Sadly all the sensors I "harvested" from the engines today did not have the electrical plug on them.But no telling if someone had replaced the sensors either. At least I have my rig back. I just wont have the fast idle or the cold advance.We never really have that cold of weather and our city has one of the longest growing seasons in the country. Anyone that knows me knows I'm no gardener but my wifey sure trys to make me like it by giving me way more than I can handle.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
A toggle switch and wire is cheaper than the switch. Lol
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I located this switch on ebay because a member supplied the oem part number. This is exactly my switch.I realize the electrical plug can fit either way copper to brass or copper to copper. Now remembering that the plug is also a copper and brass spade. My question remains what way does the plug correctly fit this? Copper to copper or??? Will be checking today why the oem switch failed.For members not knowing about this switch. This is a normally closed switch supplying power to the fast idle and injection pump cold advance. Sad part is this wire in the engine harness supplies power to the fuel shutoff solenoid and the solid state glow plug controller. The water in fuel light and the low vacuum along with the fuel heater is also part of this power supply. the switch is normally closed until the coolant temp reaches 120 degrees. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OE-180...ash=item4d38a4534c:g:CQMAAOSwtfhYnWiW&vxp=mtr
Last edited:
madpogue
Full Access Member
IOW, it's not _polarized_. I would just connect it whichever way minimizes the twisting of the wires in the harness. Generally, things of this kind that are polarized, they _usually_ have the good sense to arrange the terminals in a T or some such.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Thanks everyone for the great comments. I have spoken with two of the best idi members namely Russ and Ron. Both have no knowledge as to why the copper and brass connections. As we know no matter what... These sensors are normally closed till the coolant reaches 112 or 120 degrees. then they open shutting down the power to the fast idle solenoid and the cold advance solenoid.I tested these circuits and they both now work without blowing the self installed inline fuse.the line stays normal in temps. No hot to the touch feel. No to disect the sensor and find out why it failed to ground.Still I want to know why there is a copper spade and brass spade. there must be an engineering reason for this.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I'm sure some thing to do with heat transfer. Lol
They did the same thing on the powerstroke with icp sensors. One version had brass pins. Even called for a certain pigtail to match. But it didn't matter, it all interchanges.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
They did the same thing on the powerstroke with icp sensors. One version had brass pins. Even called for a certain pigtail to match. But it didn't matter, it all interchanges.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
madpogue
Full Access Member
One engineer wanted copper terminals. Another engineer wanted brass. This is how their boss decided. That's the "engineering reason".....
Well, one side is likely designated hot but on a simple contact switch it doesn’t matter which side you break. Same effect.
Hopefully this sorts your electrical issues Gary. We all know how you enjoy them.
Hopefully this sorts your electrical issues Gary. We all know how you enjoy them.
