Coolant change keeping it simple.

[phmezz]

I will be taking my radiator into the shop to fix a top seal leak. I plan to do a system flush when I put it back in. All the information on coolant choices is confusing. Am I OK to just use 50/50 Fleet Charge (pre-charged SCA) and use test stips every six month or so? I really don't want to add a coolant filter and make this a complicated project. I just want to keep it simple.

Thanks.

1993 F250 7.3l IDI.

 

[whiteboyslo]

Yeah, that's fine. I have yet to find 50/50 premixed Fleetcharge sitting on the shelf anywhere, so I buy the non-mixed and mix it myself with distilled water.

Mike

 

[Mulochico]

You should be good with the coolant. The only thing I would caution you about is the "fix" on the radiator. I went thru 2 radiators (rotating one as the other got "fixed") with top and bottom tank seal leaks. After about 6 months, no matter how well the seam was sealed, they started to seep. I finally put a Champion aluminum radiator on and haven't had a problem since. They cool better and are cheaper that the brass/etc. If you can afford it, I would get the aluminum radiator.

I will let other chime in on making sure you get the flush junk completely out of the system and make sure you use distilled water (not tap or hose) to mix coolant or the contaminants will mess up your system and possibly the sca's. I believe Fleet Charge is premixed

 

[phmezz]

Thanks, I think I'm going to just buy a new radiator. Checked out Champion and prices aren't too bad. Can I just drop the radiator in and all the existing fittings will attach? Anything weird I should look out for. I guess I will be replacing the thermostat and serpentine belt while I'm doing all this.

Thanks for the advice.

1993 F250 7.3l IDI.

 

[gatorman21218]

Fleetcharge is NOT premixed. I dont get why people buy premixed coolant. The full strength stuff is like 3 bucks more plus a dollar for the distilled water. Its twice as expensive to buy the premixed stuff.

But yes its good stuff. You dont have to worry about the filter. Just buy the test strips and check it every time you change the oil. I've never had to add any additives to the fleetcharge, but then again I have never been a full year without some sort of coolant leak or water pump or new engine etc.

 

[yARIC008]

I would just use a green low silicate coolant like Zerex or Fleetrite if you can still find it. Is Fleetcharge stuff pink in color? seems like I used it right before my motor cavitated through a while back, can't remember now...

 

[gatorman21218]

yes its purple

 

[whiteboyslo]

Pinkish is how I would describe it. They do make a pre-mixed version according to their website, but I've never found it sitting on a shelf anywhere. And, as has been mentioned, the cost is usually pretty ridiculous, especially if you're flushing the whole system. Either way, the coolant comes preloaded with the SCAs meant to ward off cavitation, and that's the key thing you're looking for.

The Champion radiator (Part Number CC1165, I think), is a 'drop in' replacement, hypothetically. In reality, their fit and finish leave a bit to be desired. You may have do a small but of bending, trimming, and adjusting to get it in just right, but given their cost, the effort is worth it. The other thing to keep in mind is that these trucks came with two different radiator sizes. The most common (usually referred to as the 'tall' or 'skinny' radiator) is the one the Champion will replace. The other radiator is often referred to as the 'short' or 'wide' radiator, and I have no clue what folks are using to replace these other than the common replacements you find at the parts store. You likely have the former in your truck. In fact, by 93 there may have only been the one option. Not sure.

Mike