Should be able locate plugs simple nuff
condensation or water?
- Thread starter IDIoit
- Start date
Hows that working out...what size plugs?
Come on...details man...details
Come on...details man...details
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Try the International Navistar dealer. I'm sure they will have them... Or a head rebuilder like Dieselcast either in Oregon or back east. Best way I have found to remove plugs is drill and tap threads. then a slide hammer tool picks them right out.. Bob's your uncle...
I cleaned the bore and measured it to be a .685
have 11/16 plugs that will be here tomorrow morning.
not SS but steel, oah well.. ill rock em with a bit of RTV.
have 11/16 plugs that will be here tomorrow morning.
not SS but steel, oah well.. ill rock em with a bit of RTV.
MTKirk
Full Access Member
THANK YOU EVERYBODY FOR YOUR WORDS OF ENCOURGEMENT/NOT SO ENCOURAGEMENT..
I have found the issue.
let me start off about how my morning went.
first off I pulled the drain plug on the oil pan to find about 8 oz of coolant in the bottom.
not happy.
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so I pressureized the coolant system.
and found 2 external leaks!!!
I was also applying 16-17 psi into the coolant system ( on a 14 pound system)
while I waited for a while to see how much it would leak down, I did a leak down test.
Initial pressurization
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pulled all my refurb'd (CDI's Misters) injectors out, and 7 of them are leaking...
that explains the shake at higher RPM's
I will be doing a pop test on them later this evening.
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I went all around and found all 8 cylinders to be "slight to set"
all escaping air (100 psi) was coming from crank case, the rings are not fully set, but there doing a good job.
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all 16 valves are in good shape, no air out of guides.
After 1 hour of 16.5 lbs,
It has dropped to 13-14
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Off comes the intake and valley pan.
Thought of you... @Greg5OH
The intake gasket I would never reuse.
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Dances like a preschooler and sings...
"Oneofthesethingsisnotliketheother!!!
Can you see the culprit?
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the last picture is with the coolant system pressureized to 16 psi again.
water is definitely coming out through this plug.
I should have changed them when I got the heads back.
my machinist doesn't touch em because he thinks of me of rather capable of changing my own freeze plugs.
he has told me this a few times, I guess he never got through my thick skull
I usually change them all the time, but what can I say, im a pothead, and human(kinda) to boot.
another lesson learned.
will be replacing the plugs and lifters tomorrow after the lifters get here.
PLUGS?!??
I though those were just coolant ports that got blocked off by the intake manifold (sealed by the gasket)? How's coolant going to leak from there if your gasket is good?
nope there are 11/16" plugs in there, then the gasket goes over them, but you don't RTV it, or atleast I didn't, so... it leaked.
MTKirk
Full Access Member
Well, it appears my heads (6.9) are different than yours. As you can see in the pic my ports aren't even round, let alone machined for a plug. Further, I remember when changing an intake manifold gasket about 2 years ago, a bit of coolant ran out of these holes and I scrambled with a rag to sop it up before it got to the crankcase.
I have a theory, `and it goes like this; Ford got complaints of coolant running into the crankcase every time someone removed the intake manifold, to remedy this problem, Ford worked out a freeze plug fix for these holes. Thus mechanics everywhere could pop the intake manifolds without draining the block, or flooding the crankcase.
Why is this important? Maybe it's not, but; consider this: I don't believe the seal of your freeze plugs is essential to engine operation. Thus, while you do have A LEAK at your freeze plug, it may not be THE LEAK. Unless your intake manifold gasket is bad as well, it shouldn't make any difference if the freeze plug is sealed or not.
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and what a great upgrade it was! I was thankfull when I could pull the intake without draining the block.
as I said before I don't RTV these, and with the plugs in there, I shouldn't have to.
but you can clearly see where the gasket has failed.
it may not be THE LEAK, but im crossing my fingers and hoping for the best.
ive go everything cleaned up, lifters sitting in oil, oil drained new filter, and ready to get buttoned up in the AM.
waiting on new plugs.
6.9 engines had open coolant ports that had to be sealed with Gasket Eliminator when the valley pan was installed. That seemed sketchey to me and I had my machinist install pipe plugs there. He was able to do it but I wouldn't try it myself. As shown earlier, the ports on 6.9 are not round.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Today Al (riotwarrior) and I were talking about just this seal of the intake valley pan. Brin please check the fit of the intake to the heads WITHOUT the gasket. See if the intake matches up nicely. If the angles are not correct you will have a leak. Any time heads are machined they get closer to the other head. Then the intake manifold sits up a little proud of the heads where its supposed to create a seal. Being a good machinist like you are you can figure out the angles including the intake gasket and make a skim cut on BOTH sides of the intake manifold so it fits. Then it wont matter if a plug leaks cause the gasket will make the seal. This is my opinion of why you leaked into the oil pan.
and the saga continues.
it does not leak out of the head plugs anymore.
however its leaking from somewhere else.
I pulled the IP gear cover off, (with IP installed, and 2 5/16" bolts locking the cam gear in place)
no visable water from the back of the water pump.
I have the drain plug out, and visually seeing water drip out.
I tried to tighten the bolts for the oil cooler, and the flow seemed to lessen.
so I think im going to pull the oil cooler from the block.
test the tube, and test the headers.
trying to do all I can before I say "F-it" and pull the engine.
it does not leak out of the head plugs anymore.
however its leaking from somewhere else.
I pulled the IP gear cover off, (with IP installed, and 2 5/16" bolts locking the cam gear in place)
no visable water from the back of the water pump.
I have the drain plug out, and visually seeing water drip out.
I tried to tighten the bolts for the oil cooler, and the flow seemed to lessen.
so I think im going to pull the oil cooler from the block.
test the tube, and test the headers.
trying to do all I can before I say "F-it" and pull the engine.
Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
It could be between the timing cover and water pump. That's always what I worry about leaking. What you could do is drain coolant completely, then pressurize to say 20psi a 13psi system should seal at 20psi I would think, listen for any hissing in oil pan or Valley pan then gradually fill the radiator with water until it stops or until water starts coming out of the oil pan drain hole. Then you'd know about where the leak is in the Heights of the engine.
I don't see any leaks behind the water pump.
at 16 psi w/ water
tried to use the bore scope in the drain hole, but the pick up is there.
I pulled the oil cooler, and to my surprise, the front header, didn't look like it was sealed.
im done for the day,
tomorrow I will make some oil cooler block off plates, install them on the block and re-test the system.
at 16 psi w/ water
tried to use the bore scope in the drain hole, but the pick up is there.
I pulled the oil cooler, and to my surprise, the front header, didn't look like it was sealed.
im done for the day,
tomorrow I will make some oil cooler block off plates, install them on the block and re-test the system.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Brian I made up block off plates for every coolant area of these idi engines. Your welcome to use them if you can wait for shipping. I even made head plates that look just like a head gasket.. But they are 1/2 inch thick aluminum with rubber gaskets on them. You bolt them to the block and can see down into the cylinders for leaks.
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