condensation or water?

[IDIoit]

if the heads have to come off, than that's what will happen.
but I firmly believe its something stupid.
ive had heads rebuilt by the same place that ive been running for 10 years without an issue.
after my break, I will be doing a coolant test and a leak down test.
engine is dissembled and ready for tests.

on a side note, @typ4 's stock turbo updating castings are so tight I couldn't disassemble the slip fitting, ended up unbolting it at the turbo

 

[gandalf]

For what it's worth:

Years ago I had that same milky sludge in the oil fill tube on my old VW camper. I'm reasonably sure that was condensation, being an air-cooled engine. I wouldn't absolutely rule out that possibility on your's.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

if the heads have to come off, than that's what will happen.
but I firmly believe its something stupid.
ive had heads rebuilt by the same place that ive been running for 10 years without an issue.
after my break, I will be doing a coolant test and a leak down test.
engine is dissembled and ready for tests.

on a side note, @typ4 's stock turbo updating castings are so tight I couldn't disassemble the slip fitting, ended up unbolting it at the turbo

I smeared all of the donut connections with nickel neverseive when i replaced my castings from him and 6k miles later still had trouble getting the up pipe off. I got it out with a little work but nothing was rusted, just a tight fit. Neverseize to me in like a high temp paint that keeps things from rust and never scratches off to let moisture in because its also like a grease.

That is alot of sludge but im willing to bet its from condensation from your engine test stand. I bet that engine oil never got truly up to temperature and you started it several times. I'd clean it and run it with regular driving for a couple days and see if any comes back. You should be able to drain a few ounces from the pan into a cup and let it settle back out to see if its pink coolant or clear water.

Im curious how valve seals would let steam in though? They'd let exhaust gas in but if anything thatd heat up the oil. Unless you mean the intake seals and maybe hes getting condensation in his intercooler and pushing it through the engine. What does the inside of the CDR look like?

 

[BDCarrillo]

Water is a byproduct of combustion, thus an exhaust valve stem leak could let it gunk up

 

[IDIoit]

THANK YOU EVERYBODY FOR YOUR WORDS OF ENCOURGEMENT/NOT SO ENCOURAGEMENT..

I have found the issue.

let me start off about how my morning went.

first off I pulled the drain plug on the oil pan to find about 8 oz of coolant in the bottom.
not happy.

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so I pressureized the coolant system.
and found 2 external leaks!!!
I was also applying 16-17 psi into the coolant system ( on a 14 pound system)
while I waited for a while to see how much it would leak down, I did a leak down test.

Initial pressurization

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pulled all my refurb'd (CDI's Misters) injectors out, and 7 of them are leaking...
that explains the shake at higher RPM's
I will be doing a pop test on them later this evening.

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I went all around and found all 8 cylinders to be "slight to set"
all escaping air (100 psi) was coming from crank case, the rings are not fully set, but there doing a good job.

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all 16 valves are in good shape, no air out of guides.

After 1 hour of 16.5 lbs,
It has dropped to 13-14

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Off comes the intake and valley pan.
Thought of you... @Greg5OH
The intake gasket I would never reuse.

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Dances like a preschooler and sings...
"Oneofthesethingsisnotliketheother!!!
Can you see the culprit?

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the last picture is with the coolant system pressureized to 16 psi again.
water is definitely coming out through this plug.
I should have changed them when I got the heads back.
my machinist doesn't touch em because he thinks of me of rather capable of changing my own freeze plugs.
he has told me this a few times, I guess he never got through my thick skull
I usually change them all the time, but what can I say, im a pothead, and human(kinda) to boot.
another lesson learned.
will be replacing the plugs and lifters tomorrow after the lifters get here.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

How old are your misters? I have noticed an erratic shake at idle and almost sounds like a miss and sometimes when driving cruising at 60mph I'll get a power surge as if I have pushed down with 20% more throttle and I've always suspected it may be my misters or pump. I only have 8k or so on them.

Sorry to hear about the coolant in the oil. It could also be leaking from the timing cover to where the water pump mates.

 

[F350camper]

Holy bejesus you totally called it way up there in the thread! Nice!

 

[laserjock]

Well, at least it's not catastrophic. I wouldn't think it would have hurt the bearings in that few miles right? Is that a tear down to flush it or a couple oil changes to clean up?

 

[DaytonaBill]

You, you pothead!!!

Lol!

 

[icanfixall]

Glad you found the issue Brian. Nothing feels as nice as finding the problem and fixing it. Apply some Permatex Aviation cement on thos plugs when you install them. I have no advice on where to find them or if International Or Ford sells the. But at least they are cup type. I hope you can find stainless steel plugs too like the block plugs. NEVER use brass block plugs in our idi engines...

 

[IDIoit]

How old are your misters? I have noticed an erratic shake at idle and almost sounds like a miss and sometimes when driving cruising at 60mph I'll get a power surge as if I have pushed down with 20% more throttle and I've always suspected it may be my misters or pump. I only have 8k or so on them.

Sorry to hear about the coolant in the oil. It could also be leaking from the timing cover to where the water pump mates.

surging is due to not enough volume pre IP. your lift pump needs work/help/replacement
my sticks are 2 years old, but went through a cracked head situation. I did send them back to Mel and get re-done, but they are leaking.... gonna grab a set of BB's from a member.

Holy bejesus you totally called it way up there in the thread! Nice!

I had a bad feeling that was it, because I didn't replace them, I had thought about tapping them to NPT, but I neglected to do so...
im really glad I don't have to pull the heads.

Well, at least it's not catastrophic. I wouldn't think it would have hurt the bearings in that few miles right? Is that a tear down to flush it or a couple oil changes to clean up?

I have not driven this truck much at all, only on in town trips to the post office, etc.
I think they will be alright. a few oil changes will be in order.
I don't think I did any damage as the engine never really went above 2500 rpms due to me just fartin around, and not having the engine dialed.

 

[subway]

Don't feel so bad, a dropped a wheel off my truck with my family in it soon after I got mine together.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[IDIoit]

these plugs are a royal pita to get out!
I was hoping to save atleast one of them.....
no dice, ive got 4 out so far, and could not get one out without mangling them.

hope I can find new plugs or ill be trying to tap to NPT.

 

[laserjock]

Can you do that? Aren't some of them covered up by stuff (like the intake)? Getting something to tighten up as a pipe thread at a specific height is a royal pita.

 

[IDIoit]

Can you do that? Aren't some of them covered up by stuff (like the intake)? Getting something to tighten up as a pipe thread at a specific height is a royal pita.

looking at it more closely, it cannot be done. atleast with the heads on the engine.
there is some casting in the way to get a clear shot with the drill/tap
but getting them to sit flush isn't an issue, there pretty deep.