Check your Nuts!!

junk

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I normally run lug nuts on with my air gun at the lowest setting. Try to make sure the wheels tight on the hub. Then when everything down on the ground I torque them. I normally try to make sure the torque wrench moves the lug a little bit before going tight.

No one else has touched this truck so it had to be my fault this wheel is loose. But I've put like 1,000 plus miles on it since the last time I had the rear wheels off. Easily could have left them loose I guess. Just glad it didn't happen when I was towing my big trailer.

I did have a loose nut behind the wheel, but it was the one holding it on!
 

DOE-SST

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i drove 30 miles with 5 of 8 lug nuts removed and the remaining 3 loose. This was the front right wheel on a E350 1-ton van. When I first noticed a wobble, I stopped and found the problem. I didn't have any spare nuts so I borrowed a few from the other wheels and made it home safely. It ruined the wheel. My case was an amateur attempt by a disgruntled business partner to create an accident. He had put the wheel cover back on so his handiwork wasn't visible. Nice to know that dirty little trick isn't very effective.
 

OLDBULL8

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Did you know? ALL LUG NUTS SHOULD BE CHECKED AFTER RUNNING 50 MILES after any wheel is removed/replaced. Who does that? Not me.
 

IDIoit

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Did you know? ALL LUG NUTS SHOULD BE CHECKED AFTER RUNNING 50 MILES after any wheel is removed/replaced. Who does that? Not me.

i do, ive had this happen too many times ive learned from my mistake.
 

The Warden

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Did you know? ALL LUG NUTS SHOULD BE CHECKED AFTER RUNNING 50 MILES after any wheel is removed/replaced. Who does that? Not me.
I'm actually pretty religious about it...I'll check the lugs at 50, 100, 150, and then the next two or three fuel-ups afterwards. Knock on wood, I've never had a lug come loose, but it's always been a concern for me...
 

jwalterus

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one place I truly TRUST , and thus the only place I'll have tires mounted up here, is the ND tires plus stores (not part of the national chain though)
their policy is to use impact guns capable of 80 ft-lbs max, and hand tighten all lug nuts with a torque wrench to spec, then you bring your vehicle back in at 50 and 150 miles after the install and they have a guy whose ONLY job is to re-torque customer wheels at this point, you pull in and he'll have you re-torqued within 10 minutes of telling one of the people up front you need the re-torque

needless to say, they have never had an issue like this ;Sweet
 

OLDBULL8

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Did you know this? There is a specific way to mount Aluminum Wheels. If not done correctly, they can warp/twist.
First top nut/bolt just snuggged up, 180* bottom nut/bolt just snugged up, 90* nut/bolt just snugged up, 180* nut/bolt just snugged up, etc with the rest of the 4 nuts/bolts, then half torque the first round starting at the top to bottom 180*, etc with the rest of nuts/bolts, then tightened to the specified torque in the same manner.

Steel wheels will not warp or twist like Aluminum wheels do, but should be tightened/mounted like above sequence.
 
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