Bio-diesel is probably the most effective viscosity modifying tool I have for the WMO it only takes about 5% for best results but as I mentioned I want that cleaning effect. My welder forgot the inspection cut out on the top of the tank and I didn't notice till it was to late. WMO doesn't carmelize if you run it at the wrong temps, Besides by summer I'll be swimming in diesel and not even use the system. Maybe. But this things great for the road and I could find a fill up of WMO just about anywhere, whereas folks are fighting for WVO these days.
So your suggesting I use that HP-1 20 micron filter "ahead of the pump eh" I guess it is just a rock strainer anyway. High flow and high pop pressure, but still pulling instead of pushing the fluid through might cause some problems. whats your experience with that and what exact filter do you use?
One thing driving me nuts is I don't know what kinda gear pump that is. Its got a plate on it with some numbers but thats about it for identification. Got it for $20 out of a surplus store. Works OK but I think its pretty worn out. And you were right on about how long it takes to fill that thing, forever pretty much covers it. I also calculated 60 gph on the filtering process. so it takes about 3 hours 20 to actually get one good filter on the fluid and even then its probably not all clean due to mixing issues. I let it run whenever the truck in running and then filter it again when I fill up the forward tank. So far I've kept straight diesel in the back tank to start and stop on.
The radiator fluid is sacred in my book, Engines gotta be allowed to heat and that heat drawn in a specific way off the block less I end up with uneven heat distribution. And its slow. The exhaust heat exchanger is fast, cheap, and serves to "draw" the fumes through the system. As long as I don't boil anything I'm fine.
I tortured myself with maybe cutting a circle out of the tank to run an exhaust stack up. But the modification at this time is just to expensive, that and I can always go back and do it later once I get all the kinks worked out of the present set up. Silly as it sounds this is pretty much turning out to be a practice unit. I'll do one up eventually thats not a hodge podge of idears
I think my cheapest and most efficient plan on getting 24V to that motor has been found. Two bed mounted bats with a larger alternator and some heating pads for the forward tank to provide the resistance.
Now to go learn what size wire I have to run from where back to the bats. Its gotta come off the regulator doesn't it? not straight off the alternator ?
I should know that one but I'm not really a mechanic
might be worthy of its own thread = how do you wire in a separate battery off an existing alternator
The reason I suggested lowering the pump itself was to help overcome the lift or "suction head" that gear pumps are not good for...they can push like heck, but pulling a draw is problematic, until well primed and in your case, well heated fluid. The dilemma with those bronze gear pumps is wear. They really wear the end plates creating a loss in pressure. Also, even softer chunkies can mar the teeth causing yet another point of wear/loss of pumping ability.
The tank access plates are really easy to install. I sell pre-fabbed access plates with gaskets, bolts and plates. Basically, choose a hole size, use a hole cutter to size, drill holes for bolts, install plates. The neat thing about having a plate, besides tank access for cleaning and inspection is, you can install lotsa stuff on them, fuel supply lines, return lines, gauges, senders... whatever you need. If you eff it up, get another plate! No worries about mis-locating anything in the main structure of the tank. I have them in all my customers boats for easy inspection and some modifications.
Don't forget about the heating pads for filters. They're stuck on the outside, with less volume than the tank and will harden up faster. You could use one of those as your resistor, very small amperage draw...when you need the big tank heated, use a 110V house system like your block heater. Needs bigger power to heat anyway, this way you don't over-stress your 12V electrical system. 200gal is a lot of heating in 40 degree weather....imagine lower temps! Oh wait... you already have a 12V hot water heater element installed in the tank? Why not put two or three in there, plus the filter heaters.
When you "upgrade" your alternator, you should be going to a single wire hook up. That one wire will go to either your isolator or directly to one of the 12V batteries.
Before spending all that money on batteries and wiring, get the alternator. This way you will have the power at hand when you start putting things together.
Wire size = total amps x length plus 10% times 2... I like to make sure there's plenty of copper in my runs... prevents lotsa over-heating. I figure in 10% extra just for additional working room. I like to leave 3-4" at each end for cutting out corroded wire down the road. Boats are corrosion havens. Ground directly to the frame of the truck under the bed. Your tank should be grounded too, to prevent static discharge, especially on reacted fuel that may have too much alcohol left in it from processing... or motor oil that may have been victim to fuel dilution....you never know sometimes. Fuse the hot link too. Those pumps will freeze up on you from time to time, gotta knock start 'em like a bad truck starter. This will cause a spike in power... don't want it to fry wires.