Building a 6.9 to kill

funnyman06

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I remember a while ago, someone i thought had a hybrid BD2/ DB4, the DB4 pumps were rated at 40 BHP per cyl. That might be the way to go if the DB2 can not move enough fuel on its own.
 

Abull78

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I think it is possible to see 400 HP from these engines with the right amount of work. A BD2 injection pump was rated from the factory at 25 HP / Cyl, about 200 HP. Sounds like Mel could get you the fuel if you can support the boost levels needed. What kind of twin turbo setup are you thinking about?

Well, as I was saying in a previous post, the turbo sizing is gonna come down to how much fuel I can get shoved into the motor. I am not picky on any particular namebrand, whatever size meets the need is what will be used. I would hope that a tweaked IP would atleast be able to light an S300 up. Fuel is the key here. I PM'd Agnem to see how many cc's the Moose pump can deliver. We will just have to see what the numbers support.

And guys I know I am coming from the Dodge arena BUT, the IDI is a V8, same as a new Pstroke or a Dmax, as I said earlier its gonna come down to available fuel. Anything can be made to handle power. For everyone who has ever said " forget working on that old thing, just buy a new truck, they are faster" I will show you a guy that is beating up new plastic trucks in an old steel one.
 

Abull78

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400hp at the wheels is goin to require upwards of 160cc/1000strokes out of the pump. I bet the DB2 can flow that, but it will require a lot of work.

That sounds promising, I know the DPS IP will do 200cc. Again, I am not trying to build a 10 second drag truck, 400hp seems like a very attainable goal as long as there is fuel to support it.
 

icanfixall

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These idi motors came from a clean sheet of paper. They were never a gasser. Look at what I have done to my motor. All the balancing and align boreing was done to cut down on internal drag. Look at any rod or main bearing when they come out. See some wear on either side... Thats a aligmnent issue so it wears to one side. Thats drag imposed on the motor. The cylinders need to be bored true to the crank. Or the pistons will drag on the bores. Deck the block. All V8 blocks are twisted. So truing this up creates a better volume in each cylinder. CC the precups too. The cup chambers in the heads are really ruff cut. Make them all the same size by the CC method. Barnett Performance offers 2 differant stroker motors. They have a web site... Give them a call and see what they can do for you. Russ (Typ4) does a good job with the cams. He is also as great a guy as Mel is to work with. Read the Hall of Shame for the crap pots some of us have dealt with. You wont buy with anyone listed on there that a given. Twin turbos... Sounds like you really want something.. There is plenty of help offered here free so use it. Many like me have already made mistakes for you so learn from us... Its no shame.... Really.....:D
 

opusd2

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I just get a weird feeling when Electronic Cummins folks start talking about pulling big numbers out of an engine that we old timers grew up with - no electronics and everyday reliability and work as our main goals. It does make me curious to see what someone with a lot of fundage can pull out of our motors though. Like Mel said, there needs to be a good concept adjustment over the difference between the two types of engines and how they are built/used.

There can't be a lot of arguments when I say that a HUGE percentage of the new(er) diesels like the Powerstroke, Duramax, and new Cummins are geared towards new diesel owners who mostly use their trucks for play and show. I remember the huge jump in diesel sales when Dodge introduced the 94 model, it made diesel fuel costs and parts jump in price. When modifications of the Cummins became as easy as stacking electronic boxes and easy mods, WOW! Did the sales REALLY jump! And the newer Powerstrokes enjoyed that with the newer Ford tins, and then came the Duramax which put GM owners into the power chipping arena. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to make power that easily, but I am not a fan of electronics on my diesel. And that is why I love my 86 with 6.9l so much (as well as my 6.2 in my Burb).

You are in a spot where you can play with setting up something to push more power than it was designed, a sweet concept enjoyed by a lot of us. But I really wonder why you just didn't jump on the Cummins installed in Ford bandwagon. A Cummins would be a lot easier with the aftermarket and even OEM support out there, and an inline would handle that power it creates a bit better than the Navistar V8. And if you love the body style of the Ford and power a Cummins makes (which your video would suggest), dropping in the I6 is pretty easy.

Hey, I'm not trying to offend anyone out there, but when it comes to IDI diesels like our Internationals and also the GM 6.2(especially)/6.5 IDIs, their building and use has often been tossed to the side in favor of 4BTs and 6BTs. I imagine it's a lot like shopping at the right store and buying the right clothes - fashion. To me, I love our simple engines because of that fact. If I wanted a powerhouse that would scream with the eliminator strapped to my ass I would go Cummins too for the ease of building and comfort of knowing it would take a load of abuse. Just nothing electronic, it doesn't belong on a tractor therefore not on my truck either.

I am curious as to what you come up with and what directions you go in. And I also wish you luck in the build. I love my 86 too, and I am fine with the fact that it's not as powerful as my brother's 94. I know it works hard in stock form, just not as fast as a Cummins or a turbo'd version of itself, but it does work hard and can pull same huge loads out of the field and through the barnyard.
 

opusd2

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Don't mind me if I sound like an old angry coot, I am not. I am just fricken' tired today with a little boy who doesn't want to miss a moment of life so he tries to avoid sleeping.

Don't mind me, I'd love to be building up a different project right now, for a change of pace. But I love my 86 as it is, the stock 6.9 treats me very well.
 

opusd2

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I'll probably just shoot the monkey and drop a diesel into my 89 GMC for good measure. But nowhere near the project you are describing since I have a pretty much stock 6.2 that runs well. I wouldn't mind living vicariously through you and with your checkbook, so reading about the project would be cool

I need a beer, it's been a long day
 

Abull78

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These idi motors came from a clean sheet of paper. They were never a gasser. Look at what I have done to my motor. All the balancing and align boreing was done to cut down on internal drag. Look at any rod or main bearing when they come out. See some wear on either side... Thats a aligmnent issue so it wears to one side. Thats drag imposed on the motor. The cylinders need to be bored true to the crank. Or the pistons will drag on the bores. Deck the block. All V8 blocks are twisted. So truing this up creates a better volume in each cylinder. CC the precups too. The cup chambers in the heads are really ruff cut. Make them all the same size by the CC method. Barnett Performance offers 2 differant stroker motors. They have a web site... Give them a call and see what they can do for you. Russ (Typ4) does a good job with the cams. He is also as great a guy as Mel is to work with. Read the Hall of Shame for the crap pots some of us have dealt with. You wont buy with anyone listed on there that a given. Twin turbos... Sounds like you really want something.. There is plenty of help offered here free so use it. Many like me have already made mistakes for you so learn from us... Its no shame.... Really.....:D

With your piston selection and head work, what are you running for compression now?
 

papastruck

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Welcome Abull. Barnett High Performance used to have some drool-worthy IDI stuff posted, including 7.6L stroker iirc. All I can find now is heads, but it might be worth giving them a call.
 

rjjp

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Welcome to OilBurners. Someone mentioned something about a stroker kit, I was under the impression that we were allready just shy of kissing the valves with our pistons, how could you stroke it further without getting a differn't block? This should be an interisting build.
 

FordGuy100

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I've heard ofthe striker kits as well. I think they make 7.7liters.

I would stay with Mel on the IP, DPS has some seriously bad rep.

Now hurry up and start we are all waiting for pics ;Sweet
 

icanfixall

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As for my compression numbers I am running 530 lbs at cranking speeds. My oem motor just before I removed it was running 480 lbs. These blocks have a demension that needs to be looked at. Its the top of the block to the center line of the crank. This is 11.137 to 11.141 and its very hard to measure. Plus not having much material to be milled away its gets close. I run a set of Mahle low compression turbo pistons and they have been milled 12 or 14 thousands off the top. Then they were ceramic coated with CBX from Tech Line. So a low comp piston is 10 thousands lower in the bore because the pin is machined that much higher up in the piston.... Then you add what I milled off the tops... Then measure all of them to see how far out of the block the raise.. Thats 24 to 26 as I recall. Then add the thickness of the Felpro head gasket of around 74 thousands. Now subtract 26 from 74 and you have a squish demension of.... About 48 thousands give or take a few thousands.... I did once run my first motor at 56 thousands up out of the block but.... Every piston had a valve mark on it. You could see it but not measure it... That was running just a bit too close for most.... Don't try it... Things will happen and tears will fall....:D
 

icanfixall

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No dyno run yet. Seems ever time I get ready to run one something happens... Right now I'm trying to get a timing meter that works. Then I will pop test and shim my BB injectors and set the timing to 9.5 or 9.7 and run it. Seems nobody knows how or where to send a kent moore J33300 meter for repairs. I have two that don't work. Two other snapon mt 1480 that don't work and one Rotunda that seems to work... Boy can I buy the broken ones....
 

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