Blue smoke issue

[ifrythings]

Some background info
7.3 fresh rebuilt engine with turbo internals,
Balanced
J2 cam
Studs
093 turbo system with rebuilt kit done, 3" outlet mod with 3" down pipe and 4" the rest of the way with open/ free flowing muffler.
New stanadyne G code injectors
Ip is a used one from my old motor that worked just fine and was NA and timing set at 8 degrees ferret method.

On cold startup it will run a hard to see blue haze till the high idle and cold advance kicks off then it looks fine, no white or black fuel smell that I could tell.

On driving, if I hit it ******* the go pedal it will just blue out behind me like no tomorrow till I let off, if I'm easy it stays clean.

I have not yet turned up the pump for the turbo, do I have too much timing for this engine? Is this a turbo issue? Hot or cold side leaking oil (though I don't see any oil in the exhaust)? Rings just not seated yet? Don't seam to be loosing oil that I can tell.

Also electric fuel pump that's 5psi at idle dropping to 3 or 4 psi 3000rpm no load.

Any input is appreciated!

 

[hesutton]

Blue smoke is usually oil or fuel in the exhaust. Leaking injectors will blue smoke, commonly seen at idle and on decel from higher RPM. Oil could be from lots of places, CDR, turbo, valve guides, rings..... and so on.

8 degrees BTDC isn't too much timing.

Injectors tested before install?

Oil consumption?

Heath

 

[franklin2]

I have seen engines "wet stacking" and during that time they will have a blue haze to the exhaust. Here's some info on it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wet_stacking

 

[ifrythings]

The injectors are new and no I didn't check them before putting them in, I'll pull them if no other suggestions come up, the engine is fully rebuilt with new valve guides and seals and valve job. The cdr is new and going into the valve cover as factory had it, turbo I rebuilt with a kit from Russ so that could be leaking but I would think it would blow blue all the time if the turbo was bad.

Deceleration seams to clean up if I'm going ******* the skinny pedal then nothing.

Oil seams to be stable without losing any that I can tell but I haven't really driven it a ton because of this issue. I'm going to have to say no to the wet stacking as this thing doesn't sit there for hours idling. Any other ideas before I pull all the injectors and test them?

 

[riotwarrior]

How many miles on rebuild?

This would be my first question

How loaded and hard have you driven it?

How much boost are you seeing?

What EGT do you see?

How are you driving it....what break in procedure are you using?

What oil is in it how many miles since it was changed?

There could be more ?'s but lut us start there.....as u are missing shiteton info to work from.

JM7.3CW

 

[hesutton]

You comfortable with the head work? Did you pull the springs and check the valve to guide tolerance after the new guides were pressed in and reamed to your valves? Machine shops have the hardest time with these IDI heads.

Piston ring gap good when rebuilt?

I don't trust new injectors without testing them first on a pop tester. Too many times have new out of the box injectors leaked, pissed, or opened way too early. Most are good, some are junk from day one.

If you only see blue when turbo drive pressures are significant, might pull the DP and intake boot off the hot and cold side and look for clues.

Heath

 

[ifrythings]

How many miles on rebuild?

Pretty much zero as I don't need an inspection hit from the blue smoke

This would be my first question

How loaded and hard have you driven it?

I've driven it once to move it was a maybe 4-6km and a 5% grade hill for about 1 km

How much boost are you seeing?

Haven't hooked it up yet

What EGT do you see?

Haven't hooked it up yet either

How are you driving it....what break in procedure are you using?

Driving it like a dd for the one time I drove it

What oil is in it how many miles since it was changed?

super tech oil15w40 and haven't changed it as it has almost nothing on it

There could be more ?'s but lut us start there.....as u are missing shiteton info to work from.

JM7.3CW

I had to move to a new place so I was a bit rushed getting it together enough to be able to drive it hence why I don't have much of anything on it for km.

You comfortable with the head work? Did you pull the springs and check the valve to guide tolerance after the new guides were pressed in and reamed to your valves? Machine shops have the hardest time with these IDI heads.

Piston ring gap good when rebuilt?

I don't trust new injectors without testing them first on a pop tester. Too many times have new out of the box injectors leaked, pissed, or opened way too early. Most are good, some are junk from day one.

If you only see blue when turbo drive pressures are significant, might pull the DP and intake boot off the hot and cold side and look for clues.

Heath

They machine shop did all the work and assembly so I'm not sure what the tolerances are besides in spec, I will pull injectors first as they are easy to check then move onto the turbo.

 

[hesutton]

They assembled the engine completely? Well, dang. No way to check that stuff before if they buttoned everything up and gave you a complete long block.

If, it just has run a very short amount of time, it may be nothing more than oil in the cylinders and other assembly crap getting burned off.

I prefer the "work the engine" break in method. Takes forever to get it broken in with daily driving.

Heath

 

[ifrythings]

I've ran it a few times up to temp to but never drove it till the first time, I'm having a hard time seeing that any oil would be left in the cylinders as would that not be burnt as fuel in combustion? Would oil in the intake make it blue or just burn it as fuel too? I'll pull injectors and the turbo and see if any is bad, if not I'll try to run it without the turbo and see otherwise I'm thinking internal problem

 

[79jasper]

Pre intake, it will be burnt as fuel. Won't really be a color difference.


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[IDIBRONCO]

It could be that your rings haven't seated yet. If the injectors and the turbo check out good, I'd say drive it a while and keep a close eye on your fluids, especially the oil.

 

[79jasper]

^ that's what I'd go with.

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[riotwarrior]

Itbhas not gotten neqr enough time or heat to even remotely begin a break in....

Load bed full of gravel or sand and find a good hill and pull it hard...cool it down then do it again....do NOT stay fixed at 1 given rpm for long periods....dont idle to warm it up...bad juju...there

Load it n run it hard...

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[franklin2]

Itbhas not gotten neqr enough time or heat to even remotely begin a break in....

Load bed full of gravel or sand and find a good hill and pull it hard...cool it down then do it again....do NOT stay fixed at 1 given rpm for long periods....dont idle to warm it up...bad juju...there

Load it n run it hard...

JM7.3CW Eh!

I disagree. Most engines do have a break-in period, and while you can run it hard to help break in the rings, these are about 10 short duration full throttle bursts running the truck empty, not long hard heat building pulls with a loaded bed.

Running it hard in short bursts will increase the pressure behind the rings, pressing them out to the cylinder walls to speed up the break in process.

Running it hard for long periods can build too much heat creating a glaze on the cylinder walls making it harder for the rings to seat.

 

[riotwarrior]

I disagree. Most engines do have a break-in period, and while you can run it hard to help break in the rings, these are about 10 short duration full throttle bursts running the truck empty, not long hard heat building pulls with a loaded bed.

Running it hard in short bursts will increase the pressure behind the rings, pressing them out to the cylinder walls to speed up the break in process.

Running it hard for long periods can build too much heat creating a glaze on the cylinder walls making it harder for the rings to seat.

See..this is why I love the forum....

Albeit my way is different...I am not saying 20 mile hill..but a good grade....allow cool do it again....do it a few times....10 is your magic # mine is I will decide when doing it.

These engines need to work to break in

Unlike a gasser thas only flung oil on cylinder walls these have a stream of oil spraying cylinder walls.therings are extremely well lubed...so heat must be made to get rings to seat correctly ....

JM7.3CW Eh