Best Overdrive Unit???

GOOSE

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Maybe our snow is slippier than yours? LOL Theres no way to safely drive hwy speeds here when it snows. My truck and jeep are literly all over the road and unsafe at faster speeds. They even close the schools when it snows 1/2 inch because the school busses get stuck at bus stops or end up in a ditch.

I do enjoy watching the fools with chains on the wrone end though. I watched a guy in a rwd Mustang with chains on the front try to drive LOL

I have always been able to do the posted speed limit as long as idiots aren't around me, from a 1/2 inch to 30+ inches of snow. You have to know how to handle turns and stopping. I generally don't even use the brakes, just downshift until I'm under 15mph. 65mph with 8-12" of snow on an interstate, no problem if the road is empty, 15mph when consumed by all the non drivers.:rolleyes: Keep in mind it's very flat here, mountain grades would give me a whole new perspective.

I can't stand how people go from normal to idiotcookoo even when snow is just forecasted, doesn't even have to be on the ground yet.LOL
 

laserjock

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That's not unique to snow...that happens around here every time it rains -cuss -cuss -cuss

Try the DC metro area...:rolleyes:

I still think Nashville was the worst place I have been. Watching them tailgate salt in southern KY was fun. No snow removal equipment so they just tailgate it on the road. That was like driving on marbles. Way worse than the snow.
 

johnnyb1

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I'm just needing the extra highway gear. At 65 mph she's really wound up. Also, my truck is an 87 extra cab. Will I get lucky and a regular cab driveshaft go right in or will I need to get mine cut?
 

towcat

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I'm just needing the extra highway gear. At 65 mph she's really wound up. Also, my truck is an 87 extra cab. Will I get lucky and a regular cab driveshaft go right in or will I need to get mine cut?
you will want to get one cut/made. imho, it's too long without the carrier bearing.
 

jaluhn83

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The GV may shift at lower speed, but that doesn't mean you *should*. The GV system uses a hydraulically shifted spring return movable cone clutch, with the hydraulic pressure provided by an input shaft driven pump. Obviously the faster you're driving the more volume the pump puts out, and below a certain speed it woln't put out enough volume to build pressure properly. Likewise, the lower speed means less volume which means slower shifting. The long and short of this is that it may *shift*, but that doesn't mean the pressure isn't too low to fully apply the clutch, with the result that it may be slipping, and likewise the shift may be slower than optimal leading to more slippage ie wear. With as expensive as the clutch is I wouldn't risk it.

The US Gear/Doug Nash does not go between the engine & trans, it goes aft of the trans but before a t-case if on a 4wd.

My $0.02 is that both units could fail and strand you. It sounds to me as if most failures on the DNE/US Gear are electrical - failed shift motors/control which will almost certainly not strand you. The only way I could see it would is if it fails mid shift which would be highly unlikely, and even so could be fairly easily overcome by removing the motor or side cover and rotating the screw by hand.

Total mechanical failure would strand you in either case but it seems unlikely. The DNE/US Gear is a quad contershaft design and while it does seem to have weak thrust bearings, you'd have to do some serious damage to totally destroy it. Even a bearing failure or similar I think would leave enough intact that it could be driven, apt slowly and noisily.

Wear parts for the US Gear/DNE seem pretty easy to get. I've located sources for about half the bearings (including the commonly failed thrust bearings), both seals, shift motor & switch for reasonable prices. I'm fairly confident that the sliding shift collar and fork are common manual trans parts and could be found with a bit of research and the proper catalogs, and I'm 95% confident that the remaining bearings could be easily found. About the only parts I'd expect to be irreplaceable are the gearset, shafting & case. Same is true of pretty much any trans though, and none of those are really wear items.

My parts/info thread:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?65234-US-Gear-Dual-Range-Doug-Nash-Info
 

johnnyb1

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What I hope to end up with is leave it in "direct" until I get to highway speed ( 55 or more ) and then hit an "0D" switch. Just use "OD" when needed. If that's not going to work I may want to go E4OD or 5 speed. I just like the reliability of the C6 and not have the expence and work of changing to the ZF5. Am I on the right track?
 

rockbender

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That's exactly what you can do with the GV. In fact, you have the option for it to automatically engage at 45 MPH too. It will then remain engaged until your speed drops below 15 mph or you manually disengage it.
 
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franklin2

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What I hope to end up with is leave it in "direct" until I get to highway speed ( 55 or more ) and then hit an "0D" switch. Just use "OD" when needed. If that's not going to work I may want to go E4OD or 5 speed. I just like the reliability of the C6 and not have the expence and work of changing to the ZF5. Am I on the right track?

Do some figuring on the E4OD/ZF versus the overdrive as far as costs if that's important to you. Sometimes you will break even going either way and sometimes it's cheaper to go with the factory OD.

I was in the same situation, and found it was cheaper to go with the ZF, IF you do the lucky mod like I did for the flywheel.

If you get a rebuilt E4OD and a controller to go with it, you will probably be the same price as a new GV unit installed, and you will not have any torque convertor slip and the heat it produces.

If you go with the ZF and get a new DMF to go with it, you are probably at the same price point also. But both factory installs will be much cleaner and simpler than the GV install.

If you want to scrounge like I did and buy a donor truck with a ZF in it, then you can get off pretty cheap by the time you sell all the other parts off. You could even put the c6 in the donor and sell the whole truck, if you don't mind bench pressing trannys. It is nice keeping up with traffic now with the 4.10 gears.
 

jaluhn83

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Honestly I'd bet a E4OD would be more cost effective. Yes, a rebuilt one would probably be more, but you're getting a rebuilt trans vs the old trans with a (probably unknown condition used) overdrive box. On the other hand, you also now have an electronic wonder that may or may not be as reliable as the C6. (Honestly a properly rebuilt trans is probably just about as good, used might be more iffy)

Swapping in a ZF is a whole other animal. This is what I did, but not just for the od, but also cause I wanted a stick.

Personally for me I'm looking as a DNE box mainly as a gear splitter with the ZF. I'll actually probably stick an underdrive box on there.
 

vegas39

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I'm pulling the ZF out of my truck tomorrow morning to start my C6 conversion and Gear vendors addition. I like the C6 for its durability and because I have 4.10 gears, the GV unit will be nice for freeway cruising.
I originally thought about going with the E4OD but had a few people talk me out of it.
 

franklin2

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I'm pulling the ZF out of my truck tomorrow morning to start my C6 conversion and Gear vendors addition. I like the C6 for its durability and because I have 4.10 gears, the GV unit will be nice for freeway cruising.
I originally thought about going with the E4OD but had a few people talk me out of it.

You said you like the c6 for it's durability, and I agree it's a tough tranny. But I hated the way it interacted with the diesel. It's sluggish on take off. The idi has so much to offer at lower rpms, but you can never use it with the c6, the torque convertor always lets the engine rev way up more than it needs to.

I didn't realize this till after the swap. I have a very steep gravel driveway. When I started out with the c6 I would give it throttle, but when I got to the steep part with the c6 I always had to go ahead and give it at least 3/4 throttle, and then the torque convertor would kick in and I would get wheel spin in the gravel. So I always had to get a running start with the c6. Now with the zf, I put it in 1st gear, let out the clutch, and I am on my way. I can give it a little bit of throttle and the truck reacts instantly now the engine is directly connected to the rear tires. Big difference and I really like it.

P.S. I drove a 96 powerstroke with the E4OD in it the other day, and to tell you the truth, in the lower gears the E4OD seem to react much the same as the c6, requiring the engine to rev way more than it needed to. But it might work better with a turbo engine to get the turbo kicked in sooner.
 

PackRat239

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Torque converters don't "kick in". You had the wrong converter in the truck. Waaaay too loose. Probably a gasser trans.
 

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