Best 6.9 block

[built4tq1]

I'm looking at an 85 f250 with a 6.9l in it. I got two questions for your smarts out there. The truck has a production date of 2/85 I've been trying to find when the castings were upgraded on the early engines. I have seen reports of some saying 85 and others saying 85.5 up I heard the early 6.9's were natorious for cracking around the block heater's. And I have moved to utah and the weather gets down right nippy so she will be plugged in a bit. Another question is the engine has coolant in the oil and the owner now said he thought it was the oil cooler itself. The truck starts and runs and does not blow white and or blue smoke out the exhaust. Could this be a sighn of the cooler itself I have not done any test's on the engine myself to verify but the gentlemen only wants 300 bux for the entire outfit However im not sure i want to purchase it if the block is a week unit for i plug my current idi in much as it is. Thanks for your help guys

 

[Diesel_brad]

Just buy my 86 6.9 then you will have nothing to worry about

 

[87crewdually]

Just buy my 86 6.9 then you will have nothing to worry about

Are you saying your 86 is for sale for $300?

 

[Diesel_brad]

Are you saying your 86 is for sale for $300?

The engine and trans for 1000

 

[The Warden]

You'll want to find the block serial number. It's just to the driver's side of the injector pump gear housing, and you'll probably need to clean it off to read it. If the truck has a/c, it may not be easy to read.

If your block number is below 6.9D U2U 173828, it's an early block...if it's #173828 or above, you're good to go. This serial number break corresponds to about halfway through the 1985 model year, but I can't tell you what month of manufacture the cutoff point is at. FWIW, even with an early block, you could use an aftermarket heater element that goes into (IIRC) the lower radiator hose...this way you don't have to play Russian Roulette with the factory block heater and still be able to heat the coolant up.

Hope this helps...good luck!!

 

[built4tq1]

Thanks warden just shortly after posting this it came to the realization about installing an inline heater. which pushes me more closer to this purchase

 

[icanfixall]

Several reasons come to mind about coolant in the oil. Usually it is the oil cooler but... It could be the head gaskets too... If these are the original head gaskets that too might be the reason for the coolant issues Usually these blocks don't crack and cause coolant to oil mixing and the heads needs plenty of heat to crack. A cracked head usually means white sweet smelling smoke out the tail pipe. So if the owner has coolant in it that kinda tells me he was trying to take care of it. He also seems to know why the coolant is in the oil too. Thats something you don't want to stay that way too long.... Coolant reacts harshly with the crank and rod bearings....

 

[dyoung14]

The engine and trans for 1000

1000 are you serious i paid 150 for a running engine down here

 

[built4tq1]

He said as soon as he noticed coolant in the crank-case he parked the truck. Which i know for sure is true for i have a friend that works with him. Only problem is whose to say how long the oil was in there before he noticed. I would think he should have known very quickly. Now if tihs truck turns out to be the thinner casting of blocks does that mean they should be ran at a finer amount of boost than later castings? For i do plan on boosting the engine to about 12 psi.

 

[Diesel_brad]

1000 are you serious i paid 150 for a running engine down here

Yup. 1000. And it runs good! Not some worn out POS. O yeah, clutch bellhousing, t-19 and most likely 1356

 

[dyoung14]

Yup. 1000. And it runs good! Not some worn out POS. O yeah, clutch bellhousing, t-19 and most likely 1356

Umm the 150 dollars engine i bought i installed in my buddys truck we put new injectors in it and new glow plugs, it cranks and runs like a brand new truck everyday,

But wait isnt it you who is always complaining about how low in power your engine is? its probly real worn out or the ip and injectors are about shot

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Umm the 150 dollars engine i bought i installed in my buddys truck we put new injectors in it and new glow plugs, it cranks and runs like a brand new truck everyday,

But wait isnt it you who is always complaining about how low in power your engine is? its probly real worn out or the ip and injectors are about shot

in a yard around here in pa a 6.9 goes for around 600-800 bucks. so with everythign he has, a grand isnt to bad. probly sell better seperate but who knows.

 

[dyoung14]

in a yard around here in pa a 6.9 goes for around 600-800 bucks. so with everythign he has, a grand isnt to bad. probly sell better seperate but who knows.

Thats rediculous i can buy running driving trucks for that much money

 

[Dieselcrawler]

same here. one of the reasons i wont get a yard motor. lol. i am getting a 6.9 from a buddy, motor only with 88000 on it for 300 bucks, but i think i can trade some things stright up for it.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Umm the 150 dollars engine i bought i installed in my buddys truck we put new injectors in it and new glow plugs, it cranks and runs like a brand new truck everyday,

But wait isnt it you who is always complaining about how low in power your engine is? its probly real worn out or the ip and injectors are about shot

Well it just towed a 12k excavator and ran a 19.8 in the 1/4 so i guess it is not to low in power. just low in power compared to a powerstroke. beside i got 5 *** about the engine last night so i guess it isnt too bad of a deal

Sorry to derail your thread built4tq1