berus dead in 6 months

towcat

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Mine don't get eaten away at the tips tho, they simply stop working one day. Not all of them either, and IIRC never the same cylinders.
my beru's lasted a year and a half. pulled a few out and noticed every single one had their tips eaten away. put them back in and disconnected the GP controller. compression starts easily down to 35deg F. gets a sniff of ether on cold mornings to keep things happy. may not be everyone's cup of tea, but it works for me.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Well, upon closer inspection, my #4 has a hole in its tip. #8 was the other wan that died, but there is no tip damage there. I can back off the timing some, and probably should anyways as my pump is currently maxed out in its slots...
 

hayisforhorses

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Well spring has sprung and it is time to get back at trying to wake the beast up from a winter of hibernating. Much to my surprise my damn test light was buggered new test light shows all 8 berus working boy does that make a fella feel dumb!!! never checked the damn test light!!! however problem still exsists so I removed the yellow wires from the soleniod on the fender solderd new ends on 4.5 feet of #1 battery cable (can you say overkill) and replaced the yellow cable on the controller and still click click click. It has to be the controller even though it was a new IH controller less than 6 months old when it quit working
 

Goofyexponent

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Wait a second.

Lets make SURE that it's the controler. That clicking MIGHT just be the relay bad.

If it IS the controller, let me know. I am not far away and we can try mailing you one.....I say try, as when I tried to send one across the border to Dyoung14 it came back from customs looking like a dog ******* a football!!

Now, back to to finding out it IS the controller.

You must be registered for see images attach


Make damn sure that the controller has a SOLID GROUND!! That's the black wire.

And make sure all the connections are CLEAN and TIGHT!

What causes that thing to click on and off is a lack of resistance.

The yellow wire and the green wire on the controller sense voltage differences on either side of that Z strip (resistor) Make sure that these are tight and clean or else it won't fire.

Now, you say you modded the power wire by adding a large wire from the GP relay directly to the battery? GOOD! That was my next suggestion!

Are you getting a solid current to the little red wire from teh keyed side of the ignition? Make sure of this. If it is weak or intermittant, it will snap on and off too.

Make sure that the little white wire makes good contact with the relay....this is the controllers way of closing the relay circuit.

Finally, make sure you have good, solid contact with the relay on the GP's. Check that you are getting 12V through to the plugs which is sounds like you arent.

My bet is on a loose/dirty contact or the relay is shot.
 

hayisforhorses

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Goofy the power wire i modded was from the fender to mounted relay to the glow plug controller
 

hayisforhorses

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thanks for the info goofy be a couple days before i can look at it again. work gets in the way at the most inconsiderate times
 

86ford69

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I had lots of gp trouble this summer. I went through prolly 5 sets. Tried autolites, Bosch, and berus. Brent em all up. The berus lasted about 3 months. Then they just went out one day. Did a lot of research and found that AC60gs would work. Only this I needed was some some pipe tape and they have lasted 6 months. You can burn these plugs for 30 seconds with no problems. My gp is prolly on it's way out but it still works. I read 12.5 volts at the spade connectors. These plugs don't get as hot as the Berus but they work great.
 

yARIC008

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I don't trust the controller... I had mine hooked up for a while for my remote start to work, but one day I got in and the volt meter was real low like the plugs were still on and it stayed that way for a while. I shut down and disconnected the controller then the volts came back up. I've been push button ever since...

It's also an added safety feature. No one will steal my truck as no one will be able to get it started... Also, been on the same plugs with the push button for about 7 years now.
 

rhkcommander

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I don't trust the controller... I had mine hooked up for a while for my remote start to work, but one day I got in and the volt meter was real low like the plugs were still on and it stayed that way for a while. I shut down and disconnected the controller then the volts came back up. I've been push button ever since...

It's also an added safety feature. No one will steal my truck as no one will be able to get it started... Also, been on the same plugs with the push button for about 7 years now.
This x100

I trust my finger over a computer and no one else touches the truck so pushbutton works perfect. It's nice being able to glow em even if one burns out too ;)
 

hayisforhorses

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This x100

I trust my finger over a computer and no one else touches the truck so pushbutton works perfect. It's nice being able to glow em even if one burns out too ;)

From my understanding (and your sig) the 6.9 controllers failed allot and failed on as you described but the 7.3 is suppose to be more reliable.......but i guess i might be living proof they aren't:rotflmao
 

rhkcommander

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From my understanding (and your sig) the 6.9 controllers failed allot and failed on as you described but the 7.3 is suppose to be more reliable.......but i guess i might be living proof they aren't:rotflmao

Everyone says the 7.3 is more reliable. I dont mind pushing a button though. A button is more reliable than a computer I reckon, and it isn't much of a hardship to push the button either LOL
 

Goofyexponent

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10 seconds.....then if she don't light off, try another 5 - 7,8 seconds and try again....this is why I don't like manual plugs.

With automatic plugs, ANYONE can hop in my tank and tak it up the road. Great in an emergency where the difference between life and death is a truck starting or having dead batteries.
 
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