I live out in the middle of nowhere, so there is no local diesel shop, that's why I'm hoping to find some injectors that have already been pop tested.
It sometimes sucks being 150 miles from a decent sized town, don't it ??
People assume that there is every convenience just around the corner, whereas if it weren't for UPS and Parcel Post, I would still be living in the twenties.
I believe the company that makes the diesel-fired circulating coolant heaters is WEBASCO; of course, I could be wrong about that and they might not make them at all.
From what I hear from others that have them, especially those in the frigid far North, they are the thing to have.
Where many miss the point on cold-weather starting is it is not how quick and easy the engine fires, but just how much damage it is doing to the engine and it's components to be started at such cold temperatures.
Depending on where you work and your own situation, I would consider a simple gas-fired (diesel would be better but many dollars) generator to plug the engine into and crank it up an hour before starting the truck; this remedy may not be acceptable in some work environments.
Another remedy is a device that starts, runs, then shuts off the engine, automatically every hour; those that have these also swear by them as life-savers.(or you can simply walk out there and start it yourself)
If no means of heating the block is available, I would route the fuel-solenoid wire through a dash-mounted toggle-switch, such that I could crank the engine without it being able to fire.
I would install at least TWO Group-30/31 preferably stud-type batteries just prior to winter setting in.
Before attempting to start the engine, I would turn OFF power to the fuel-solenoid and crank over the engine several revolutions.
I would also have a toggle that would kill power to the glow-plugs; there is no need for them to be cycling during this initial cranking.
I would attempt to start with the plugs; but, if it failed to fire quickly, I would kill power to the plugs and hit it with a squirt of ether.
A 5/8" hole can be strategically located in the air-intake AFTER THE FILTER, a tubeless farm-tractor tire valve-stem be installed (with a cap), and ether be sprayed directly into the airstream through that.
If you have a naturally aspirated engine, the hole can simply be drilled into the breather lid and the stem installed in it.
This little modification lets you use ether without all the hassle of having to remove parts, spray, start, and put the truck back together.
Ether, used sensibly, never hurt anything; it's idiots with ether that tear stuff up.