Below Zero Starting without a block heater

[cleithau]

So I found out today that in winter there will be nowhere to plug my truck into heat it up before starting. I know its early but I want to get it figured out before its freezing cold and I'm starting my truck with a can of ether everyday when I leave. I have heard of some city busses that start on propane and then switch to diesel? Has anyone done this with an IDI. What would work to start it without a can of ether?

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

As long as your IP is timed and you have a good set of glow plugs, you should be able to start it without plugging it in.
I've had em kight off at 6 below without plugging them in. Even started up faster than an 03 6.oL.

 

[cleithau]

It does need some work. Glow plugs are new Berus. It will start at zero but doesn't like to. Would new injectors help? I have know idea of when they were replaced. The IP seems good but never have had it timed. Seems to run good and get decent milage, except when towing.

 

[hesutton]

Good injectors that atomize the fuel well is also important. I can tell a difference in starting my truck with the DPS stage 1's. They just kind of "***" fuel into the precup which is not a big deal runing down the road. But, starting and at idle is where you pay the price. Your rig should start at those temps, but the block heater will make easier.

Heath

 

[Diesel JD]

I wonder if there's any possible way it could be cost effective to use a solar panel or something of that nature to run the block heater. Also not a bad time to consider 10W-30 mineral or 0W-40 synthetic motor oil to give it the best shot.

 

[cleithau]

A solar panel wouldn't do much good on most days up here since it will be cloudy and snowy. With the condition of the engine I couldn't imagine having good oil PSI with 10-30. Maybe some new injectors would help. Has anyone used Quickstart? Its ether injection, but at least I wouldn't have to pull the air canister everytime I left work.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

It would take a very large solar panel to produce enough energy to heat a diesel engine.

I think that an ether injection system is the least expensive, reliable method.

I killed my glow plugs last winter when trying to start at @ 15*F without ether. I guess cycling the glow plugs for longer and longer wasn't the answer!

 

[Diesel JD]

It may be a false economy to think of the oil pressure in this case, 15/40 or SAE30 might be so thick that the bearings would effectively get 0 oil pressure until the engine heats up some. Also I'll bet you might surprise yourself and still have acceptable oil pressure going down the road. The 10-30 of course will act like a 10 weight when cold so you aren't wasting precious energy to spin the engine over but it will be like SAE30 at operating temp, still very good protection and when I ran 30wt my oil pressure was not much less than with 15W-40 maybe 5 psi or so down. I think that and maybe having 8 good glow plugs, perfect timing and a strong battery/starter/cable set should get you going most days and use an ether system when you have a real cold day, ether or propane flame thrower!

 

[hheynow]

Good working glow plugs, good batteries, winter weight oil and something like this to prevent gelling or blend with kerosene. I use Stanadyne Performance Formula to lower the gel point.

 

[Agnem]

There is a company out there that makes a little furnace for your truck, that circulates coolant via your heater core circuit. Uses fuel from the tank. Forget who/what/where. Would be a good option for you.

 

[cleithau]

My glow plugs are only 6 months old, they are the Beru's, battery are only 1 year old, Might try the 0W-40. But I too kill some glow plugs last winter on a really cold day, don't wanna do that again.

Probably going to get some new injectors since they aren't too expensive and I have no idea how old they are. The owner before me hadn't replaced them and neither have I so I guess its time. What is a good place to get some that have already been pop tested. New or rebuild is fine, just want the best injectors for the money, bone stock engine, no turbo. But I wouldn't mind getting injectors that would work with a turbo if I ever can afford it. Wouldn't mind spending more on injectors if I will see and performance gains.

 

[hesutton]

I'd go with new injectors. B, BB, C, D, or E code will work fine and there is not much difference between them. The G code are IDI turbo injectors, but they have a higher pop pressure which will retard your timing.

Either way you go, new/rebuilt, I'd get them tested at a local diesel shop for pop pressure and spray pattern. Even new ones can be bad right out of the box. I'd also get the motor timed. New injectors or new IP........get it timed to 8.5 BTDC using the pulse method.

Heath

 

[cleithau]

I live out in the middle of nowhere, so there is no local diesel shop, that's why I'm hoping to find some injectors that have already been pop tested.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I live out in the middle of nowhere, so there is no local diesel shop, that's why I'm hoping to find some injectors that have already been pop tested.

If ya were'nt so dang far north, I've got access to an injector tester.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I live out in the middle of nowhere, so there is no local diesel shop, that's why I'm hoping to find some injectors that have already been pop tested.

It sometimes sucks being 150 miles from a decent sized town, don't it ??

People assume that there is every convenience just around the corner, whereas if it weren't for UPS and Parcel Post, I would still be living in the twenties.




I believe the company that makes the diesel-fired circulating coolant heaters is WEBASCO; of course, I could be wrong about that and they might not make them at all.


From what I hear from others that have them, especially those in the frigid far North, they are the thing to have.


Where many miss the point on cold-weather starting is it is not how quick and easy the engine fires, but just how much damage it is doing to the engine and it's components to be started at such cold temperatures.


Depending on where you work and your own situation, I would consider a simple gas-fired (diesel would be better but many dollars) generator to plug the engine into and crank it up an hour before starting the truck; this remedy may not be acceptable in some work environments.


Another remedy is a device that starts, runs, then shuts off the engine, automatically every hour; those that have these also swear by them as life-savers.(or you can simply walk out there and start it yourself)


If no means of heating the block is available, I would route the fuel-solenoid wire through a dash-mounted toggle-switch, such that I could crank the engine without it being able to fire.

I would install at least TWO Group-30/31 preferably stud-type batteries just prior to winter setting in.

Before attempting to start the engine, I would turn OFF power to the fuel-solenoid and crank over the engine several revolutions.

I would also have a toggle that would kill power to the glow-plugs; there is no need for them to be cycling during this initial cranking.

I would attempt to start with the plugs; but, if it failed to fire quickly, I would kill power to the plugs and hit it with a squirt of ether.


A 5/8" hole can be strategically located in the air-intake AFTER THE FILTER, a tubeless farm-tractor tire valve-stem be installed (with a cap), and ether be sprayed directly into the airstream through that.

If you have a naturally aspirated engine, the hole can simply be drilled into the breather lid and the stem installed in it.

This little modification lets you use ether without all the hassle of having to remove parts, spray, start, and put the truck back together.


Ether, used sensibly, never hurt anything; it's idiots with ether that tear stuff up.