Banks power Drain tube leak
- Thread starter Spun4Fun
- Start date
It was not the Oil sending unit ext , it was again the dip stick tube 
, Had my wife REV it pretty good and could see the oil pouring out . i pulled the tube out , cleaned it real good with break cleaner , cleaned the tube going to the oil pan , added nice O ring to the tube along with Copper RTV and snug it back in place, will let it cure over night and hope for the Best
, Had my wife REV it pretty good and could see the oil pouring out . i pulled the tube out , cleaned it real good with break cleaner , cleaned the tube going to the oil pan , added nice O ring to the tube along with Copper RTV and snug it back in place, will let it cure over night and hope for the BestHere we are again .. The Banks Turbo drain tube going to the VP is leaking all over , WHAT A F poor design ....
Can i cut safely a hole in the oil pan without removing to install a weld on bung , Then rout a drain line from the turbo or it is much easier to do it to the driver side valve cover so i can get away with that old POS banks drain tube
Can i cut safely a hole in the oil pan without removing to install a weld on bung , Then rout a drain line from the turbo or it is much easier to do it to the driver side valve cover so i can get away with that old POS banks drain tube
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Are you running an electric fuel pump? Reason I ask is if you are, you can use the hole in the block where the mechanical fuel pump was for a oil return. Would be easier than either option you list above..... Just a plate with two bolts and a pipe fitting welded to it.
Now a word. Make SURE you have a large enough line for the oil drain. You do not want any restriction in that line and have oil backing up into your turbo! Rather err on the side of "too big" if at all possible. And the longer of a drain hose you have, the more bends/curves in the hose you may have, the larger the hose needs to be.
JM2CW
Now a word. Make SURE you have a large enough line for the oil drain. You do not want any restriction in that line and have oil backing up into your turbo! Rather err on the side of "too big" if at all possible. And the longer of a drain hose you have, the more bends/curves in the hose you may have, the larger the hose needs to be.
JM2CW
Still running the mechanical OEM lift pump .This is ******* me off and coasted me to rebuild my OEM starter while back from Oil soaked . Is there any other place i can tap into to return the oil rather ..! What size return hydralic size hose you suggest
Please take a look at Page 1 as you will see the cheep backward solution drain tube to VP that bank offered back in the day .
Will converting to a electric pump is the only Alt solution ....? I see that this will be way far run for the turbo return and how would i route it accurately and safely to be effective
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Found this thread http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?33913-Oil-return-line-for-turbo
I think tapping in the valve cover side will be the easiest .. I can weld the bung to it
I think tapping in the valve cover side will be the easiest .. I can weld the bung to it
Drew2010
Full Access Member
Not understanding the difficulty here?
When you say you "ice picked" the valley pan, are you doing this through the CDR hole? I always punched them out from the bottom, which requires removal of the valley pan, I always used new. Not saying you cant do it from the hole, but I am wondering what kind of holes you were able to get through that small hole at an awkward position in the engine bay, especially under the turbo?
This banks drain tube is used on thousands of trucks, if you have it sealed up at the turbo flange, and inserted in the valley pan with a grommet, then I don't understand how your having such trouble. Did you ever leak test the tube itself? if it is pushing oil back up past the grommet, then your valley pan is not draining enough oil....
I dont understand the whole reinventing the wheel thought process here? Maybe I'm the only one?
When you say you "ice picked" the valley pan, are you doing this through the CDR hole? I always punched them out from the bottom, which requires removal of the valley pan, I always used new. Not saying you cant do it from the hole, but I am wondering what kind of holes you were able to get through that small hole at an awkward position in the engine bay, especially under the turbo?
This banks drain tube is used on thousands of trucks, if you have it sealed up at the turbo flange, and inserted in the valley pan with a grommet, then I don't understand how your having such trouble. Did you ever leak test the tube itself? if it is pushing oil back up past the grommet, then your valley pan is not draining enough oil....
I dont understand the whole reinventing the wheel thought process here? Maybe I'm the only one?
You made a very good point .. I punched mine from that awkward position ( CDT Hole ) , I am not sure how well the holes and i know i put at least 4 good ones . My problem seems like it's not draining fast enough , I tested the tube so many times, I put diesel in it , stood it up right for over a day and ZERO leak , Bone dry under the tubo flange soaked by the VP , Oil vapor reaching the turbo hat , wast gate actuator unless i got another problems
. Down pipe looks dry from outside and not soaked with oil stain so am guessing my seal is good but . So i am reinventing the wheel to meet my application that's all
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Kinda random, but I would take a look at your cdr. Clean it or replace.
Maybe it's clogged, pushing oil mist out the valley grommet for the oil drain.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Maybe it's clogged, pushing oil mist out the valley grommet for the oil drain.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Brand new CDR with 5k miles on it , However it worth checking sir
i see your problem here.remove the turbo,and the drain tube.this time grab a large flat head screw driver and smack it down in through the valley pan 5 or 6 times.your issue will be behind you.
there are no known issues with the turbo drain tube.
there are no known issues with the turbo drain tube.
had to refresh myself with whats going on..lol
i dont like those bendable lines, one bit, but its just my opinion.
i dont like those bendable lines, one bit, but its just my opinion.
once he punches enough larger holes down through the pan,there wont be any issues with the drain tube leaking oil because it wont hold any pressure.it will just flow back down his engine like a funnel and his starter will become bone dry.
i made the same mistake and had this same exact problem installing my first kit on chip truck.once i had some real holes,issue was completely gone and she's been dry for years since.
when installing my second kit on log truck,i didn't make the same mistake twice.
as for the concern someone mentioned above about not being enough room.
the turbo needs to be removed.with the turbo and drain tube out,there's all kinds of room to angle a large screw driver every which way to punch holes all over in there with ease.he was simply far to bashful with his ice pick.
i made the same mistake and had this same exact problem installing my first kit on chip truck.once i had some real holes,issue was completely gone and she's been dry for years since.
when installing my second kit on log truck,i didn't make the same mistake twice.
as for the concern someone mentioned above about not being enough room.
the turbo needs to be removed.with the turbo and drain tube out,there's all kinds of room to angle a large screw driver every which way to punch holes all over in there with ease.he was simply far to bashful with his ice pick.
I punched about 6 holes with a cheap #2 Phillips head sharpened to a point. 3/16ths holes or so. I have had no problems with oil drain back. Slathered some rtv around the tube base when I stabbed it in the grommet. Dry up to this point!
