I have an EGT gauge which is well possible that was the plug for the EGT Probe , However i don't see why that drain hole should be spitting oil backward ( assuming that is what happening ) like you said in the passenger side which is my case in fact i also see it slightly by the driver side and it's not the fitting for the turbo oil feed ....
Banks power Drain tube leak
- Thread starter Spun4Fun
- Start date
I done a few reading and found out that the purpose of that plug like you mentioned Oil, fuel and water to the rear of the block( it's not part of the baffle it self it vent or act act as a passage to the out side . it's all coming together Now , The oil tube must not been lined up correctly AGAIN 
and still causing oil to gush out and drain to the back of the Eng unless i have other serious problem ..
Its time to re route the turbo drain line once for good to the Valve cover .
and still causing oil to gush out and drain to the back of the Eng unless i have other serious problem .. Its time to re route the turbo drain line once for good to the Valve cover .
Holy crap, hope you read my last PM to you.
The pic of the valley pan is the new style, the hole to the far right is where the drain plug goes. The baffle is totally different (the big hump) on the new style, on the old style, the baffle is kind of rounded and goes the full length back to the drain plug, but not over it.
You should have a fitting that goes on the front of the IP gear bolt access hole right under the oil fill, the long hose from there, goes back to the CDR, the CDR lays on it's side and a short hose goes into the air intake.
Can't show it but, the oil return flex tube from the turbo goes into the hole right behind the turbo where the CDR use to be. That is the hole you have to go thru to punch holes in the VP baffle.
The grommets was furnished by Banks. The grommet for the oil return fits the CDR hole but the hole thru it is small to fit the flex tube.
Your EGT sensor goes into the exhaust manifold between #6 and #8 cyls. Without seeing the sensor you have, can't tell you how to mount it there, usually have to drill a hole and maybe tap it 1/4"NPT, some have a band to hold it in a non tapped hole.. Banks has a fitting for the sensor on the turbo, someplace on the exhaust downpipe side.
The pic of the valley pan is the new style, the hole to the far right is where the drain plug goes. The baffle is totally different (the big hump) on the new style, on the old style, the baffle is kind of rounded and goes the full length back to the drain plug, but not over it.
You should have a fitting that goes on the front of the IP gear bolt access hole right under the oil fill, the long hose from there, goes back to the CDR, the CDR lays on it's side and a short hose goes into the air intake.
Can't show it but, the oil return flex tube from the turbo goes into the hole right behind the turbo where the CDR use to be. That is the hole you have to go thru to punch holes in the VP baffle.
The grommets was furnished by Banks. The grommet for the oil return fits the CDR hole but the hole thru it is small to fit the flex tube.
Your EGT sensor goes into the exhaust manifold between #6 and #8 cyls. Without seeing the sensor you have, can't tell you how to mount it there, usually have to drill a hole and maybe tap it 1/4"NPT, some have a band to hold it in a non tapped hole.. Banks has a fitting for the sensor on the turbo, someplace on the exhaust downpipe side.
Attachments
Last edited:
OLDBULL8 .. I got your PM and responded , My set up exactly the same and even with few holes punched in the VP i think there could be some dirt or something restricting the flow causing it to build up and gush out.
My EGT is working and in place with no issues , I now have a great understanding of this rear drain plug , VP and grommet . However i am going to reroute this turbo drain to enter the Valve cover with Bung fitting and be done with this mess .
My EGT is working and in place with no issues , I now have a great understanding of this rear drain plug , VP and grommet . However i am going to reroute this turbo drain to enter the Valve cover with Bung fitting and be done with this mess .
reklund
Full Access Member
Spun4Fun-
I fully understand your desire to eliminate the oil leak, but I think you should take another look at making the Banks drain tube function properly. There are thousands of them on the road working well, something must be amiss with yours if it's continually leaking. Re-engineering it seems to me like perhaps the wrong thing to do. Maybe your drain tube is bent funny and not sealing against that grommet properly? Can you pour oil into the valley pan hole with a funnel and monitor how fast it drains? Perhaps some more holes in the valley pan are necessary- I had to punch 8-10 in mine when I installed my ATS turbo.
Just my $.02
Ryan
I fully understand your desire to eliminate the oil leak, but I think you should take another look at making the Banks drain tube function properly. There are thousands of them on the road working well, something must be amiss with yours if it's continually leaking. Re-engineering it seems to me like perhaps the wrong thing to do. Maybe your drain tube is bent funny and not sealing against that grommet properly? Can you pour oil into the valley pan hole with a funnel and monitor how fast it drains? Perhaps some more holes in the valley pan are necessary- I had to punch 8-10 in mine when I installed my ATS turbo.
Just my $.02
Ryan
reklund ..I usually reserve re-engineering things as last option . I think you mentioned few key things for me to try , Perhaps 2 holes did not cut it , Maybe the tube ..etc . I might give it a shot withe more holes punched in the VP and poor some oil and watch it like you said
Just ran into this looking for something else.
Detailed instructions on installing a Banks Turbo. Scroll down in it and look at pic #10, shows valley pan grommet hole.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...urbo-sidewinder-kit-(w-instructions-amp-pics)
There is so much info in the IDI Tech Articles.
Detailed instructions on installing a Banks Turbo. Scroll down in it and look at pic #10, shows valley pan grommet hole.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...urbo-sidewinder-kit-(w-instructions-amp-pics)
There is so much info in the IDI Tech Articles.
reklund
Full Access Member
Use a touch of RTV inside the groove of the valley pan grommet and around the drain tube before you install into the grommet. I like the Toyota black FIPG sealant- it seals really well. It's like $20/tube at the Toyota dealer if you want to try some. Folks have had good luck with the Permatex ultra grey too. The key is cleanliness. Clean the valley pan and grommet and tube really well with brake clean or the like before applying the sealant...
Well like you said reklund as far the way the tube was bent . i took a close look at the tube and the way it was bent , Looking at it quickly it looks perfect , However when i previously fitted the tube inside the grommet i always had enough gap up top by the flange that i had to pull it up to reach when installing the bolts . So after you comment i questioned the length of it . I stretched a little and now the tube setting all the way inside the grommet . I manged to draw a bold out my hand and punch extra 2-3 holes in the VP .
I added RTV to the tube but i did not remove the grommet since i just recently installed it . I am letting the RTV cure and won't be able to test drive it yet as i have other stuff to do before i run the truck .
.I added RTV to the tube but i did not remove the grommet since i just recently installed it . I am letting the RTV cure and won't be able to test drive it yet as i have other stuff to do before i run the truck .
Well finally after so many trial and error i was able to align the tube and she's bone dry when it reached op temp on idle . Took it for a drive and the VP remain dry
But oil leak and smoke coming from the passenger side header .. did i over torque my new valve cover gasket because it's wet with fresh oil by the bolts close to the bolts by the Dip stick . So i figured oil run back wards and over the header some where
So i ordered new gasket and this time i put only 6-8lb ft of torque and used thin layer of cooper RTV on the VC side
If i can get to drive this truck as much as i been working on it , I would be the happiest owner of the OBS IDI ever . But this Old beast don't like things to be messed with that's been settle on it's own way
But oil leak and smoke coming from the passenger side header ..
did i over torque my new valve cover gasket because it's wet with fresh oil by the bolts close to the bolts by the Dip stick . So i figured oil run back wards and over the header some where So i ordered new gasket and this time i put only 6-8lb ft of torque and used thin layer of cooper RTV on the VC side
If i can get to drive this truck as much as i been working on it , I would be the happiest owner of the OBS IDI ever . But this Old beast don't like things to be messed with that's been settle on it's own way
Ok guys Test drive fail ..We got an oil gusher still plenty of oil like maybe 2 glass shots coming by the driver side covering the starter and down the ground , Valve cover sealed tight with no oil that pouring out of it to cause this much i even had some one rev the truck as am under it watching the valve covers also checked the oil dip stick tube .
No oil sign in the Valley pan like before when i rev it up but i have slight damp VP from IP that i been monitoring ( I checked and made sure it's oil not Diesel on the ground)
I exhausted all my thought ..Any where to go from here beside my app with the repair shop . I know it's not a head gasket . head gasket won't let oil poor out like that .I also done a head gasket test from Rad before i bought it ..Hmm I am just ranting
Could it be oil sending unit ???
No oil sign in the Valley pan like before when i rev it up but i have slight damp VP from IP that i been monitoring ( I checked and made sure it's oil not Diesel on the ground)
I exhausted all my thought ..Any where to go from here beside my app with the repair shop . I know it's not a head gasket . head gasket won't let oil poor out like that .I also done a head gasket test from Rad before i bought it ..Hmm I am just ranting
Could it be oil sending unit ???
Could buy yourself one of these.
http://t.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908
I have one I use for work and love it. Let's you see I. Those books and crannies!
http://t.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908
I have one I use for work and love it. Let's you see I. Those books and crannies!
Yah i borrowed an ACdelco one from my friend and it wasn't all that great maybe if i get a better quality one it will do the job ..!
Would a loose Oil sending unit extension housing could do it ..Just thinking ( do they have an o ring in the fitting that thread to the block ) . I have an after market turbo so they relocated the sending unit on the turbo but they left the extension and plugged the top with a bolt from what i see the base of the bolt dry but the by feel the bottom of the ext to the block is caked with soot and crud
What component in that area could cause such an OIL leak beside the obvious
Would a loose Oil sending unit extension housing could do it ..Just thinking ( do they have an o ring in the fitting that thread to the block ) . I have an after market turbo so they relocated the sending unit on the turbo but they left the extension and plugged the top with a bolt from what i see the base of the bolt dry but the by feel the bottom of the ext to the block is caked with soot and crud
What component in that area could cause such an OIL leak beside the obvious
