firemedicmonkey
Erie Surf and Ski
I am thinking of using Auto-Rx on the Black Beater... looking for some updates from you guys that have used or are using it currently... Thanks
Auto-RX
- Thread starter tractorman86
- Start date
swampdigger
Full Access Member
Took me a while to find:
http://www.auto-rx.com/rms13/index-2.htm
This was on the intertubes a few years ago... Auto-RX has mirrored this dude's website as it was before. But it's a completely independent photo-gallery of before and after pics.
Story goes the guy who did this website actually asked Auto-RX for some free samples or something, and Auto-RX told him to get bent. So he went ahead, bought the stuff anyway and still went on with the photo comparison.
Pretty hard not to be sold after seeing the pics!
http://www.auto-rx.com/rms13/index-2.htm
This was on the intertubes a few years ago... Auto-RX has mirrored this dude's website as it was before. But it's a completely independent photo-gallery of before and after pics.
Story goes the guy who did this website actually asked Auto-RX for some free samples or something, and Auto-RX told him to get bent. So he went ahead, bought the stuff anyway and still went on with the photo comparison.
Pretty hard not to be sold after seeing the pics!
Not knocking the product, but I have seen rotella do the same thing for gas motors. I hadda 300 six in an old farm truck I bought that hadda bad valve cover gasket. When I opened it up I couldnt believe how bad it was sludged up, I mean it was FAR FAR worse than those pics showed. I dont think the oil was ever changed(it was only used to haul gravity boxes once and awhile and sat the rest of the time). So I closed it back up and my father at the time said to just run diesel oil in it for the next couple oil changes. Well I did and two yrs went by and I took the valve cover off to replace it as I never could get it to seal in the back passenger corner and I WAS SIMPLY AMAZED. It was as clean as could be, it looked as if it was new again. Rotella or any other diesel rated oil will clean a gas motor right out, its unbelievable. Since then I have run it in every vehicle I have, if the 15/40 is too thick, I run the 5/40 synthetic. Now for my diesels I just run the supertech 15/40, as its still the older formula and is cheaper. I dont think the newer spec cj4 matters as much in newer gasser stuff though.
ericboutin
Full Access Member
So do you have to run synthetic after the treatments or can you stay with the the trusty 15w-40?
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Unless the seals on the engine are complete gonners, that stuff will put them back like new to where they won't care what kind of oil you run, and if you put a synthetic in , synthetics continue to condition the seals so they will maintain that condition for a long time, if you run a dino oil, it's a good idea to run the maintmence dose of the auto rx , I think it's 2 oz per change to keep it from getting gunked up again and keep the seals pliable. Synthetics generally don't have this problem except for some of the cheap hydrocracked synthetics.
FordGuy100
Registered User
I use to burn about a quart every 500 miles. I did one dose of auto-rx. My trip to Texas....2500 miles...I burned 1 quart. I'm sold 
xekon
Registered User
Was considering purchasing some of this but the research I have done suggests MMO works just as good if not better than ARX at a fraction of the cost... http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/616604995/m/134100814
First thing I did when I got this truck was to give it an oil change, the oil was horrible! really really sludgey, the filter also looked like it had been on for a very long time.
I did a compression test on my new 93 7.3 IDI NA.
(fully charged batteries, engine was warmed up overnight with the block heater, radiator was hot to the touch.):
passenger:
1: 220-320-380-400-410-420
3: 200-290-340-360-378-390
5: 180-320-380-422-445-456-462-472-480
7: 220-310-360-390-400-410
drivers:
2: 200-300-360-392-405-420
4: 220-318-362-398-416-422
6: 220-316-358-390-400-410
8: 230-325-370-402-418-422
going to give MMO a shot and see how it does, ill do periodic compression checks at the flush intervals.
First thing I did when I got this truck was to give it an oil change, the oil was horrible! really really sludgey, the filter also looked like it had been on for a very long time.
I did a compression test on my new 93 7.3 IDI NA.
(fully charged batteries, engine was warmed up overnight with the block heater, radiator was hot to the touch.):
passenger:
1: 220-320-380-400-410-420
3: 200-290-340-360-378-390
5: 180-320-380-422-445-456-462-472-480
7: 220-310-360-390-400-410
drivers:
2: 200-300-360-392-405-420
4: 220-318-362-398-416-422
6: 220-316-358-390-400-410
8: 230-325-370-402-418-422
going to give MMO a shot and see how it does, ill do periodic compression checks at the flush intervals.
Without defining what's going on with your numbers I'm guessing that you are providing each compression stroke pule to max pressure achieved correct?
What really matters is that they balance on the main or first compression stroke which they seem to do quite well and attain near similar comp pressures in total.
Looks not too bad actually from what I"m seeing....
JM2CW
xekon
Registered User
Yes that's what I was doing, they went maybe 5-10 psi higher after 2-3 more strokes, so I only counted 6 strokes, except for cylinder #5 which went farther than the rest.
"A low compression reading on the first stroke followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes indicates worn piston rings."
looking at some other peoples compression results, they got:
Passenger side front to back
#1 - 300, 380, 400, 420, 420, 420
#3 - 260, 300, 380, 400, 400, 400
#5 - 300, 380, 420, 440, 440, 440
#7 - 300, 380, 400, 420, 420, 420
Driver's side front to back
#2 - 300, 380, 400, 440, 440, 440
#4 - 300, 380, 400, 420, 420, 420
#6 - 280, 350, 400, 420, 420, 420
#8 - 250, 300, 400, 420, 420, 420
so thats obviously healthier than my engine.... but then again when I changed my oil it came out with thick sludge, nearly all the oil, so I think with a good cleaning I will get some compression back.
"A low compression reading on the first stroke followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes indicates worn piston rings."
looking at some other peoples compression results, they got:
Passenger side front to back
#1 - 300, 380, 400, 420, 420, 420
#3 - 260, 300, 380, 400, 400, 400
#5 - 300, 380, 420, 440, 440, 440
#7 - 300, 380, 400, 420, 420, 420
Driver's side front to back
#2 - 300, 380, 400, 440, 440, 440
#4 - 300, 380, 400, 420, 420, 420
#6 - 280, 350, 400, 420, 420, 420
#8 - 250, 300, 400, 420, 420, 420
so thats obviously healthier than my engine.... but then again when I changed my oil it came out with thick sludge, nearly all the oil, so I think with a good cleaning I will get some compression back.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
It does work for cleaning, but my experience with it was in a bronco 2. This could have been completely unrelated circumstances, but what happened to me.
Engine overheated on the way home from putting it in. In the matter of no time. Gauge hit red and she locked up. Cooled off and everything checked fine. No noises or anything.
Week later, the engine chucked rods.
MMO is pretty good stuff though.
Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
Oops. edit; it was actually that zmax crap.
Auto-rx is good stuff.
Engine overheated on the way home from putting it in. In the matter of no time. Gauge hit red and she locked up. Cooled off and everything checked fine. No noises or anything.
Week later, the engine chucked rods.
MMO is pretty good stuff though.
Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
Oops. edit; it was actually that zmax crap.
Auto-rx is good stuff.
That sludge sounds like what I was experiencing, and I had issues with chuffing and massive soot contamination which equated to massive sludge!
Good luck with what ever choice you make.
Black dawg
Registered User
The problem with mmo in these engines, is that it evaporates very easily, and leaves with the blowby through the cdr only to be be burnt in the combustion chambers. After you add it to your oil, walk back to your tailpipe, you will smell it burning.
xekon
Registered User
sounds like you have tried it, will it help free up my rings? (give me better/quicker compression) should I get a road draft tube and use it while using the MMO? What all products have you tried and what are you experiences with them?
Black dawg
Registered User
I honestly dont think it will do anything, never did for me. I have never tried arx. The only thing I have found to free up rings is a big trailer for lots of miles. MY compression seems to fluctuate year to year from about 250-300 psi. Several years ago I had it loaded up good (about 30k gross). Immediately after that and for about a year later, compression was 400psi. now it is back to the same low compression ****.
this is an engine with 360k.
this is an engine with 360k.
