Anything to be concerned about?

[Ford86]

Hi guys. I'm really close to putting in my 7.3 turbo into my 86 f350 (waiting on parts) and I've just been looking at the engine and I found a few spots that I can't tell are just dirty or may have a little leak. Nothing looking worthy of dripping just a little wet. I have pictures before I washed the engine. I'm just wondering if it's anything I should be concerned about or if I should be fine to run it. Also do these drain bolts come with a gasket on them? Mine has a tiny drop so I drained the oil and there was no gasket on the bolt or stuck to the drain pan. Nor was there a washer. I think I am going to pull the oil pan and re seal it with RTV just so I can sleep easier at night haha. Thank you!

 

[79jasper]

Where do I start? Lololol
Looks like your rear main, front seal, fuel pump (ditch it, go electric. IMO), maybe valve cover gaskets.
Yes the oil drain plug should have a washer. Usually copper. Can get it at most parts stores.
Also when you go to put the flywheel back on, use a sealer on the bolts.

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[Ford86]

Not exactly what I wanted to hear lol. Will it hurt anything for the time being? I plan on rebuilding the engine later down the road in a few years hopefully. The truck won't be towing daily or have a lot of stress on it just a summer daily with the occasional tow. Also what sealer would you recommend?

 

[Waystro]

Rtv.
Go ahead and do the hard stuff while its out it'll save you alot of trouble.

 

[TahoeTom]

You may want to reseal your oil cooler. It's much easier with the engine on a stand. For the rear crank seal, International sells a seal with a wear sleeve. The sealing surface on the crank gets a groove worn into it and won't seal if just a seal is replaced. According to the instructions, you don't need to remove the rear cover. I'll get back to you after I scan the instructions. You could probably run it as is. The rest of the "leaks" don't look like deal breakers. I think if a leak just collects grime and doesn't actually leave a pool of oil wherever you park, while not ideal, is not a huge issue. These engines seem to get pretty filthy unless you are constantly cleaning them.

 

[no mufflers]

is that oil pan new? it should be gray. the worst part of a leaky engine is it gets the truck all dirty, so if you want to keep the truck clean I would fix the leaks. if the motor has been sitting for a while once you run it and put some miles on it the leaks get even worse. that's what happened on my truck, it sat for a long time and leaked no oil but once I got it on the road in a year or two it leaked from every spot possible. by the time I pulled the engine out to re seal it the truck was a oily mess, and so was I.

 

[Greg5OH]

do front main, rear main and oil cooler. dont worry about the rest IMO.
I swear all diesels just end up leaking. i put brand new nice rubber VC gaskets on, torqued everythign within a month they started leaking again. I just leave it.. But those big O ring type seals are important. I blew an ol oil cooler seal once dumping oil all over the ground almost lost the engine.

 

[79jasper]

I think @icanfixall recommends using the copper rtv with the rubber valve cover gaskets.
The one I had was the other way around, it leaked until I put some miles on it.

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[Ford86]

So front and rear main seals and oil cooler. I just want to prevent anything catastrophic. All diesels leak at some point it seems like lol. Is the oil cooler pretty easy? Also i bought the engine off a friend who got it off a family friend of his. He said he's had it for a few months and now I've had it for a few months so its prob sat for a month. He said the previous owner put a new oil pan on it. But you never know what's actually true. I'm going to pull the oil pan off and re seal it as well. also does anyone ny chance have a diagram on the oil cooler and front seal that one for the rear seal is great thank you!

 

[TahoeTom]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?44702-Oil-cooler-reseal
This was in the tech threads at the top of the page. Lots of good info to be found there. I think Victor O rings are the ones you want, or else from Ford or International. I have heard the black O rings that come with complete gasket sets don't last. There are usually some on ebay.
I am not convinced your front seal is leaking. The front of your oil pan would be oily. Maybe if it has been replaced the pan is clean.

 

[Ford86]

I'm just gonna do front and rear Main seals and re seal the oil pan. Ford quoted me 70$ for the rear and 20$ for the front. The guy told me that the front dosent come or need a wear sleeve like the rear. Is this true? Also does that seem way to expensive? My flex plate is gonna be in this week but my exhaust is back ordered till the following week so I should have this week to get those seals done then in she goes!

 

[TahoeTom]

Those prices from Ford seem correct. The front seal rides on the shaft of the damper. You will need to pull the damper and see if it needs a sleeve. You can buy a sleeve or look on Rock Auto for a seal and sleeve combo. If you haven't already bought from Ford you may get a seal/sleeve for the rear for less from Rock Auto, but I don't know if those sets can be installed without removing the rear plate. If you install the rear seal/sleeve from Ford, do it with the oil pan in place. I did mine with the pan off and the rear plate wanted to bend without the pan glued to it. When you replace the front damper put some RTV under the washer to keep oil from leaking past the keyway. Use thread sealant on the flexplate bolts to keep oil from leaking past them.