AIR! new strange symptom(s)...

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Been a bit since I was on. Work, and the winter of discontent just won't stop. It's almost April, and I have 3 feet of hard pack snow out back that all 198lbs of me can walk on.

I have searched for my symptoms before posting on here, to no avail...

Last time i was on, I had just finished a project where I and some other folks here came up with a circuit diagram design to put a thermostat relay on the GPC to limit glow plug heat-up to only when the block (coolant really...) was cold. Long story short, that all works fine. Tested many times since...

While doing this, I also did: returns, orings, gp's, harness, and new champion radiator install. All good. oh... and a gear reduction starter. (man, do they make a difference!) ;Sweet

Recently, and with increasing intensity as time goes on..., I get the sputter and cloud that the air was giving me before, but the symptoms have changed. When it was the returns leaking, the sputter was VERY time sensitive. Overnight would be a starting issue every time gp's or not, but 5 min in the store and a restart would go fine. Diagnosis: slow air intrusion.

Now it's different... -cuss

I can leave it overnight, and she fires RIGHT up every time now (even in -15 with no block heater... thank you BERU!), but seems to have a large bubble of air somewhere that gets to the injectors after prime is used. I suspected at first it's pre-filterhead air... Now not so sure, since I put clear tubing from filter to cap #.... uh... the one with the rotunda... and another clear line from the frontmost driverside cap into the IP. When I crank, these two clear lines stay full of fuel the entire time, every time...... and I just don't ever see air in them EVER.

Also, I can go in to a store for LITERALLY a minute or two, come back out, and when I start her up... there's that smoke!!! But if it was a minute or two, a couple revvs, and she's not smoking any more.... So basically, the air is getting in quick, but only so much gets in, and then the process stops it seems...

Which leads to the part I'm dreading: From what I have read, I have gleaned this: IP's have a shelf life of about 130k with decent use... I'm at 165k on the original IP... Also, there was a period right AFTER I did all that work, and BEFORE I started using the highly recommended Stanadyne blue bottle additive where this issue was minimal if not non existent...

So yeah....., my theory: the Standyne detergent in the blue formula cleaned the **** out of my overdue IP, possibly removing deposits from somewhere where they were doing something good: keeping air out of my IP.

Before I go asking a ton of random follow-ups as I work this out, I'll just ask one: does this sound correct/possible?

I don't want to do the IP if i can help it...

Oh yeah.... one more symptom i noticed: after full warm up, i give her a couple good revvs almost to redline, and on the stomp... a little black, but when I let off, as soon as the rpms peak, and start to go down...... a little PUFF of white/blue smoke! EVERY TIME. Right at the top of the revv, no matter where on the rpm band I go to....

As always, thanks in advance...
 

Josh Carmack

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I know of TONS of IDI's that have over 300,000 on the IP, mine currently has over 200,000 never heard they only had a useful life of 130,000.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Maybe I worded that too strongly... I heard they are considered likely to be "worn" by 130k. Two PO's, so I got no clue how they ran it....

I'll try to snap some pics in the AM of the IP.... just for shitzngiggles. Thanks for the gasket tip. It's a place to start...
 

Zaggnutt

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I know of TONS of IDI's that have over 300,000 on the IP, mine currently has over 200,000 never heard they only had a useful life of 130,000.

Hang around here for a while. It is considered common knowledge on this site.
 

redneckaggie

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I can say that I know of several idi's with over 200k on them and no ip replacement, are they loosing a little performance by then... maybe, but I wouldnt immediately blame the ip. I have 130k and 23 years on mine and it does fine
 

Josh Carmack

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Well, maybe I consider dead to be a little more dead than others LOL. If it cranks, runs smooth and builds usable power then I'll drive it.
 

79jasper

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Try a clean line from the return fuel from the pump. The one coming out the top of the pump.


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N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Update: Found no wet spots anywhere in my front tank loop... or near the IP. Starting to think I just have a crap lift pump. It's stock from 94, so I might as well replace it anyway... It's on the list.

However... I'm in the middle of swapping another bed onto her, and the back tank was ****. Including the sending unit. The 90 degree send line tube had a big hole in it and flopped off when i touched it, and the 90 degree return tube was rotten as well. I didn't SEE a hole... but I'm sure there was one...

Could this possibly let air into the system while she sits, even if I am only ever running the front tank?
 

Josh Carmack

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Absolutely, the ford FSV are known to bleed, some from suction, some from return, and some from both. I have had one valve dump an entire tank of fuel out on the ground going down the interstate.

Also, if it's a leak on the suction side it is very possible you'll never see a wet spot.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Awww man.... that's awesome to hear. That might also have something to do with the fact that she starts differently when she's parked facing uphill than when she's facing downhill... I forget which, but one scenario produces way more sputter on startup.

will report back after good rear tank is in...
 

79jasper

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Inside of the fuel line fittings are two orings. Probably a good idea to replace them.
Don't know the sizes though. Just pull them from the return and feed lines and get the same size.


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icanfixall

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The return line running from the firewall to the tanks is a 5/16 line. All the supply lines are 3/8 line. The rubber hose at the mechanical lift pump is 3/8. The hard line from the lift pump to the filter head is 3/8 line and the top fitting has a seal called an olive in it. The feed line to the injection pump is 5/16 line and it has an olive in each end of it too. If your return off the top of the injection pump is a hard line it too will have an olive in the 3/8 line at the brass fitting at the pump.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Everything from the hard line/filterhead connection olive to the return caps has already been replaced, inspected, and is performing great. Caps, hoses and olives. (thanks again for the kit, typ4...)

I will however check everything between the lift pump and the tanks... Thanks for the sizes.

One other thought I had too... I have clear lines from the filter to the rotunda cap, and the IP to cap #1... They NEVER have air in them. Not after she sits, not when I start her up... Air doesn't come in while it's running either, the lines always look primed, and always with just fuel... This is what made me think that maybe it was a bad seal/air intrusion somewhere in my IP. I figured if this were true, it would explain why I always see fuel and ONLY fuel in the pre-IP lines, but air is still getting in before the injectors......

Am I way off in this logic?
 
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