Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
GOing to redo my ac system. Has new evaporator. Got 3 cans of refridgerant and a 3oz of ester oil. What else right capicity?
Air conditioner
- Thread starter Cincinnati Guy
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alienturtle
Human
I am not sure how true this is but i have heard that SOME cans of freon have added "sealer" in them that is supposed to seal any leaks but has been known to clog the a/c system. And in 1 case at the dealership my dad said it has gummed up the a/c machine when he did the sucky outy part (cant think of the name) I have never used the cans before as my dad has a big a/c machine at his dealership. but I'm just throwing that out there.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
What do I need to remove oriface tube? It in the line next to that canister thing right? Sorry dont know the terminology...at the quick disconnect
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Should be there before the evap unless it broke off then it's in the evap nearby an you can dig it out with a pick or needle nose, or blow it out. just pull it out
Then upgrade to a vov for better idle performance
Then upgrade to a vov for better idle performance
jonathan
Full Access Member
also unhook the lines going to the pump and the big thing by the fire wall on the p side. then pour some rubing achool into the ac line and blow the lines out until all of the nasty looking **** stops coming out. if you dont have a ac manifold set up ,let dry for a few minutes. if you you have the ac manifold let it suck on high side for a few min and make sure it holds vacume if it dont you have a leak
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
The longer you vac it the more water will boil out. Weaker venturis and such need more time anyway
Your system calls for 32oz refrigerant, 7oz pag46.
Pull a vacuum and shut the valves and let it sit for 30 minuts, it should hold the vacuum, if not, you have a leak, if no leak, continue vacuuming overnight to boil all of the moisture out, in the morning, when you change out to the refrigerant , it will suck teh first can without turning the engine on ( hint purse the air out of the yellow line to the gauge head with the can turned upside down , OK to let it get sucked in that way while engine off too, but flip it while engine running.Open the valves SLOWLY! when beginning to charge a ford system, that goofy seal setup on the back of the compressors will blowout in a heartbeat if let pressure go from neg to pos too fast. It doesn't hurt to dribble in a bit to the high pressuer side at first, then letsome into the low side ( this is all before starting the engine) this helps balance out the system and prevents problems from popping up
If refrigerant goes in too quickly, you will pop the seals on the rear of the compressor, and if you bought one of those vehicle specific oring sets, they only come with enough for one installation, so you will need to get another ( yet another reason why I get all that stuff in bulk )
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Should I replace all orings first? Do I need a manifold to do this or one of those ones you screw onto the top of the can?
It doesn't hurt to replace all the orings, they are getting pretty old. Make sure to NOT use the PAG or ester oils to lube them or you will get leaks very soon, you need to get a bottle of Nylog for the orings or a can of old r12 mineral oil to make sure they seal properly.
You can get a set of manifold gauges fairly cheap that will do the job for occasional use usually around $35 ( if you have one of the harbor freight 20% off coupons, you can get off pretty cheap ), much better than guessing what's going on. Youlll spend at least $12 on just a can tap, why not get something that will work. Pawn shops are usually a dead end. gauges are usually broke or the hoses need new seals which can be hard to find if you don't have an HVAC supply nearby, besides, they usually want twice what the things are worth.
damac
Full Access Member
I am going to be doing this soon as well and think I have all the parts and orings but after all the reading I have done, I still don't have a clue if I should use old r12 cans or just convert the system to the new stuff.
Another thing I didn't even think of until I came across somebody elses post by accident is, what about a working but used compressor and all of its seals. It sounds like its best to start fresh if you are with everything else and you can get a kit for the orings and seals and you can replace them by breaking the unit down?
I haven't looked up that info yet, but it sounds like we are in the same boat and it would probably be best to do that.
Oh and another thing is I blindly bought some air compressor based vac puller, but now that I think about it, I doubt my home unit has enough power to run that sucker for any length of time?
Another thing I didn't even think of until I came across somebody elses post by accident is, what about a working but used compressor and all of its seals. It sounds like its best to start fresh if you are with everything else and you can get a kit for the orings and seals and you can replace them by breaking the unit down?
I haven't looked up that info yet, but it sounds like we are in the same boat and it would probably be best to do that.
Oh and another thing is I blindly bought some air compressor based vac puller, but now that I think about it, I doubt my home unit has enough power to run that sucker for any length of time?
Flagship
Full Access Member
Subscribing.. Want to see how this turns out.
Pop a variable orifice valve in there and stick a small pusher fan on in front of the condenser and there is no reason you can't get r12 temps with r134a without all the hassle and extra cost. I avoid using r12 except in cases where it's a simple top off .If you spring a leak with that stuff, it gets expensive fast.( this is unless you just happen to be sitting on a case of old R12 cans already, then by all means, go ahead and use them)
REbuilding compressors is a loosing proposition, and buying rebuilt ones an even worse one, you can buy brand new ones for around $200, usually less than what rebuilt ones go for. Used, you never know the history. Was it ever run in a system after a seized compressor and the system not flushed and filters not installed? All you really know is it was running then, maybe.
Those air powered vacuum pumps will work, but you need a WHOPPER of a compressor to power the things to where they will pull enough vacuum to do any good. People mistake the purpose of pulling a vacuum. It's not just to remove the air from the system, it is to remove water. To boil water at ambient temperature requires a very hard vacuum ( in the way that putting a pressure cap on a radiator raises the boiling point of water above 210 degf , putting water under a vacuum of at least 27in will make it self boil at ambient temperature and the steam goes out with the pump suction. JUst barely making 27in means it will take a VERY long time to boil off the moisture in an opened system, where a stout pump that draws 30+in will boil the moisture out very quickly. THose air powered jobs , if run with an insufficient compressor will fire up at 27in but soon fall off to where they are only pulling maybe20in , and they cansit there and do that all week, but it's not going to get the moisture out.
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