'90 F350 Crewcab 4x4 "BFTD" Project..

[laserjock]

Its like a washer on a banjo bolt. My experience with copper gaskets (primarily on vacuum systems) has been that if they aren't crushed too bad they will seal back up. What happens is that the copper will work harden. You can anneal them but unless its an expensive (read large) gasket we usually don't bother and throw it away when it quits sealing.

 

[riotwarrior]

Crush washers are not expensive..buy new ones.

Lots of MARINE grade anti seize on bolts when assembling accessory drive stuff....try to abate the dissimilar metal corrosion as best uou can.

Really sounds like you are making some big steps.

Please try to confirm valve depths somehow since ground....they need to be in spec...or catastrophic results MAY occurr

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

As far as the crush washers are concerned, it's not the money.. It's the wait. It would be next week before I can get them.. Planning on new injectors in a couple weeks before I start really driving the truck anyways so just want to make sure it's gonna run.

That's the reason I want to get the accessory drive apart while off the truck. Everything is in good shape now... But I want to put some antisieze on everything to make potential roadside disassembly much easier. I'll put a bit of heat on the mount and get the bolts out. The idler is the problem... Broke both of my good for bits.

Anyways, heads and gaskets will be here tomorrow. Hoping to pull the heads tomorrow after work. Get everything cleaned up and the new heads on Thursday night... Then button up everything come the weekend.

A quick question.. What would be a good way to make sure the valves are at the right depth without pulling them?

 

[riotwarrior]

A depth mic would be ideal....or...let me think on a cheat

BTW.....pullimg em wont do chit..they need be seated to measure how deep they are.

I am thinking outloud here....this is cheating at the farthest level.

Take a dial i dicator and mag base...zero it out at head level....now reset it compressed to MAX allowable valve depth...now set it on head and measure each valves reccession...i am realy simplifying my idea ...i understand what I mean but likely camt tinfoil head drunk tra spose that for anyome else but I bet another here can finger out my rambling

***** i need stop reading OB when deep deep into heavy beer

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Heads came in and look to be in good shape. They were ran for approximately 6 hours before they discovered the block was cracked. Doesn't look to have any odd wear or any valve contact with anything that they shouldn't be contacting... lol

Going to clean them up when I get home. Just glad they made it safely out of fedex's hands.

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Headgaskets are at the house... radiator will now be delivered friday... got a 1/2-13 bottom thread chase, 6 gallons of ELC, and a few other things now... Everything is on schedule thus far.

 

[homelessduck]

Man, you stole those heads ! Shipping had to of been at least $100. Good score.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Man, you stole those heads ! Shipping had to of been at least $100. Good score.

Shipping was $137.. lol

They had a price written on them in paint marker from the machine shop... 781.00

I certainly couldn't have afforded that and the truck would have probably been parted out if that was the case.. that or another engine. I'm glad the guy was willing to take a hit on them as he did.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Made good progress tonight... about 2 1/2hrs and the heads were on the shop floor. Would have been sooner but we ran into some issues that I was afraid of. The severe rust on this engine had eaten away the points on a couple of the lower outermost head bolts to the point where they were round/smooth. Had to get creative.

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Cylinders and pistons looked good. No odd wear or scoring on the cylinders and all still had a distinctive crosshatch.

Creative head bolt modification...

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Found some bent pushrods...

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Found a good bit of crusty nastyness under the passenger side valve cover which happened to be the side with bent pushrods and a bad valve guide.

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Not sure if you can see the movement... but there was ~ 1/8" of side to side play on the #3 exhaust valve with the valve still seated under spring pressure. All of the others had a very slight movement (could feel it but not see it). #7 had the bent pushrods which I'm curious what causes that in these engines....

http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v75/AcIdBuRn52383/F350%20Crew/VID_20160316_192920912_zpsnixvxvs7.mp4

Plans for tomorrow evening are to chase all the holes and clean everything up then hopefully set the heads in place. I'm going to pull a few head bolts and pushrods out of the original engine and use the best ones. Other then that, the engine looks to be very healthy and should have a lot of life left.

More to come.

 

[riotwarrior]

Looking good.

Making fantastic progress, but what about the headbolts are you goimg to replace those custom ones?

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Looking good.

Making fantastic progress, but what about the headbolts are you goimg to replace those custom ones?

I'm going to pull a few out of the original engine from the truck along with pushrods and use the best ones.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Made some progress but not as much as I hoped... Have to order 2 alignment dowels in the morning as mine were fubared.

Anyways... 1 head is on and buttoned up.

Surface prepped... holes chased...

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Back together and everything torqued to spec. All head bolts torqued to 110lb. ft. using moly thread paste. Torqued in sequence 30-60-90-110-110.

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If I can find the dowels in town, I'll get the other head on tomorrow hopefully.

 

[crash-harris]

Hey, while the driver's side head is still off, would you mind taking a look at the plug on that side of the block (on top near the head, between cylinders 6 & 8)? I'm trying to find out what size it is while mine isn't here.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Are you needing thread size or what? Is it a pipe plug or...?

I'll take a look after work tomorrow and let you know. Not sure if I'll be much help as most of the external fittings are extremely corroded and may not be removable to check.

 

[crash-harris]

Yup, even if you can just eyeball it. It's a pipe plug with a square head. It's between cylinders 6 and 8 (right side of engine when facing it) bergen the exhaust manifold and block deck.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Just went and checked... Neither of my engines have a pipe plug in that area. There is a plug on the head between 6&8... The only plug on the block is the cooling jacket drain...