79jasper
Chickenhawk
Haha I had the exact same experience with clr.
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'90 F350 Crewcab 4x4 "BFTD" Project..
- Thread starter AcIdBuRn02ZTS
- Start date
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
I thought it was just my luck... at least I'm not the only one. lol
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
More progress...
Finished up building a new GP harness and got it installed...
So the truck this engine came from was sold, it wouldn't start and the guy was trying to chase it down. I think I found the issue tonight....
When I hit the key, the WTS light came on and stayed on for 10 seconds or so, then went out... however, the relay never made a sound. I would assume the controller itself is getting power and working as it should, but the relay is dead.
Anyways, I started the truck and let it run for a bit (which it started after 3 - 5 second cranks). I had the cold adv. hooked up for the first time and the truck sounded very harsh and it didn't want to idle. I pulled the cold adv. wire and it smoothed out but still sounded like someone was shaking a jar of marbles.. VERY harsh rattle.
I hadn't tested the snap-on timing light adapter that I scored off ebay a month ago. It looked pretty rough but for $40, I wasn't going to pass it up. Hooked it up tonight for the first time and grabbed the timing light. Slowly started bumping the advance on the light... 0 mark lined up with right at 15 on the light and no cold advance @ 1500rpm. Gonna need to back that down a bit.
I'm curious why its so high... perhaps the previous owner was grasping at straws for the starting issue..
Any guess on how much the pump will need to be moved to drop 7*?
Anyways, shopping list is growing... Hope to order a new gp relay and the radiator come friday.. hopefully funds allow.
Finished up building a new GP harness and got it installed...
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So the truck this engine came from was sold, it wouldn't start and the guy was trying to chase it down. I think I found the issue tonight....
When I hit the key, the WTS light came on and stayed on for 10 seconds or so, then went out... however, the relay never made a sound. I would assume the controller itself is getting power and working as it should, but the relay is dead.
Anyways, I started the truck and let it run for a bit (which it started after 3 - 5 second cranks). I had the cold adv. hooked up for the first time and the truck sounded very harsh and it didn't want to idle. I pulled the cold adv. wire and it smoothed out but still sounded like someone was shaking a jar of marbles.. VERY harsh rattle.
I hadn't tested the snap-on timing light adapter that I scored off ebay a month ago. It looked pretty rough but for $40, I wasn't going to pass it up. Hooked it up tonight for the first time and grabbed the timing light. Slowly started bumping the advance on the light... 0 mark lined up with right at 15 on the light and no cold advance @ 1500rpm. Gonna need to back that down a bit.
I'm curious why its so high... perhaps the previous owner was grasping at straws for the starting issue..
Any guess on how much the pump will need to be moved to drop 7*?
Anyways, shopping list is growing... Hope to order a new gp relay and the radiator come friday.. hopefully funds allow.
That is pretty advanced. How do the static marks line up between the pump and the gear cover? It may take 1/8'' to get 7*. The PO may have R&R the pump by removing the gear cover with the pump and got it a tooth off. The timing is set at 2000 rpm. You are missing a line clamp on the driver's side bank of injection lines.
Edit: My Haynes manual states 2* dynamic timing is approx .030 inch of timing mark offset.
Edit: My Haynes manual states 2* dynamic timing is approx .030 inch of timing mark offset.
Last edited:
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
So most likely a dimes thickness... which is a common amount that people advance the pumps. A kid owned the truck so he most likely just bumped the timing up for "mo powa"...
Yeah.. gonna back that down.
I know the clamp is gone. I've got a extras and will be putting it on before it gets driven. Thanks
Yeah.. gonna back that down.
I know the clamp is gone. I've got a extras and will be putting it on before it gets driven. Thanks
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
One step forward... Two steps back...
Seems to be a common theme with this truck. What I thought was an exhaust leak at the Y pipe ended up not being an exhaust leak at all. I hung the exhaust on the truck and the sound traveled with the exhaust.. the tap tap tap was coming from the exhaust.... Yay.
Looks like the heads will be coming off. Thankfully, I believe I've found a set of rebuilt heads that are within the budget so perhaps this wont have to go on the back burner for a few months. The heads I'm looking at have been pressure tested, new valves, look to have new springs, guides, etc.. He is looking for the paperwork from the machine shop to verify what all they did.
Anyways... I did get my 4 core champion radiator ordered friday so it should be in this week. If I can get the heads in by next weekend, I might be able to get it pulled apart and back together by early next week. Hopefully all works out with these rebuilt heads.
Also got all the wiring done and my coolant filter mounted (not plumbed yet)
Seems to be a common theme with this truck. What I thought was an exhaust leak at the Y pipe ended up not being an exhaust leak at all. I hung the exhaust on the truck and the sound traveled with the exhaust.. the tap tap tap was coming from the exhaust.... Yay.
Looks like the heads will be coming off. Thankfully, I believe I've found a set of rebuilt heads that are within the budget so perhaps this wont have to go on the back burner for a few months. The heads I'm looking at have been pressure tested, new valves, look to have new springs, guides, etc.. He is looking for the paperwork from the machine shop to verify what all they did.
Anyways... I did get my 4 core champion radiator ordered friday so it should be in this week. If I can get the heads in by next weekend, I might be able to get it pulled apart and back together by early next week. Hopefully all works out with these rebuilt heads.
Also got all the wiring done and my coolant filter mounted (not plumbed yet)
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AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Well.. finally some good news (I think...)
Got a set of heads that were rebuilt by Harts Machine for a steal... Guy had them rebuilt a few years back for his son's truck and afterwards, found the block to be cracked so they ended up finding a used engine and putting these on a shelf in the pole barn. After some talking, just over $200 for the pair shipped to my door.
I'll know how good of a deal I got when they get here... guy seemed pretty honest but you never know these days.
Also got head gaskets coming... rockauto had felpro single gaskets on wholesale discount for $15 each so got 2 of those coming (all the other gaskets that came in the kit I had just replaced... no point in buying them twice). Now I gotta find a valley pan for a reasonable price... If I can swing that, I'll swap heads come next weekend and hopefully be back on track yet again.... Not sure if I can swing it though.
Anyways... more to come.
Got a set of heads that were rebuilt by Harts Machine for a steal... Guy had them rebuilt a few years back for his son's truck and afterwards, found the block to be cracked so they ended up finding a used engine and putting these on a shelf in the pole barn. After some talking, just over $200 for the pair shipped to my door.
I'll know how good of a deal I got when they get here... guy seemed pretty honest but you never know these days.
Also got head gaskets coming... rockauto had felpro single gaskets on wholesale discount for $15 each so got 2 of those coming (all the other gaskets that came in the kit I had just replaced... no point in buying them twice). Now I gotta find a valley pan for a reasonable price... If I can swing that, I'll swap heads come next weekend and hopefully be back on track yet again.... Not sure if I can swing it though.
Anyways... more to come.
Waystro
No Class
Sounds like a good price for the head gaskets wonder if the 7.3s or cheaper?
Waystro
No Class
Is that a blazer I spy in the background? Dad has a 86 jimmy.
jhenegh
Truck Still Earns its Keep
Bet that guy is glad to have em sold! Glad I saved that number 
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Nah... that was my first truck. Its an 83 K10 I've had since I was 15... Now it sits
That truck was my first engine build... first automatic trans build... had a lot of fun in that truck and got in a lot of trouble.. I really should sell it before it rots to the ground but I hate to see it go.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Cylinder heads, valley pan, and head gaskets are on the way.
I called the machine shop that rebuilt the heads and they told me what all was done to them. They were pressure tested, springs tested, exhaust valve guides replaced, intake guides inspected (were in spec), new exhaust valves, surfaced, and a full valve job.
So... as long as they arrive in 1 piece... they should be good to go. Planning to tear it down thursday night after work and get it back together over the weekend. Hopefully it'll be running good again soon.
I called the machine shop that rebuilt the heads and they told me what all was done to them. They were pressure tested, springs tested, exhaust valve guides replaced, intake guides inspected (were in spec), new exhaust valves, surfaced, and a full valve job.
So... as long as they arrive in 1 piece... they should be good to go. Planning to tear it down thursday night after work and get it back together over the weekend. Hopefully it'll be running good again soon.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Had some spare time tonight so I went on and stripped the accessory drive off... Now hopefully wednesday night I can get a couple hours to pull the heads and maybe, if all goes well, sit the new heads on thursday evening. I'll have a few hours thursday night and then a good bit of the afternoon sunday so I'm hoping I can get it running again by then.
Anyways.. I'm a picture ***** so...
Now... it was pretty quick coming apart (now that I've done it half a dozen times...) however I broke 2 torx drivers trying to get the idler pulley to break loose. I ended up being able to pull all of it as a unit (took some creative maneuvering).. But I'd like to get it broke loose while its off so if it needs to be replaced in the near future, it wont be a complete PITA.
Anyways... more to come as parts roll in.
Anyways.. I'm a picture ***** so...
You must be registered for see images attach
Now... it was pretty quick coming apart (now that I've done it half a dozen times...) however I broke 2 torx drivers trying to get the idler pulley to break loose. I ended up being able to pull all of it as a unit (took some creative maneuvering).. But I'd like to get it broke loose while its off so if it needs to be replaced in the near future, it wont be a complete PITA.
Anyways... more to come as parts roll in.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Quick question.... would it be ok to reuse my injector crush washers? I've only had them in the engine for a couple weeks and 2 or 3 short run times. I'm replacing the heads this weekend and don't want to have to order them and wait on them.
I'll be replacing injectors in a few weeks if the engine runs good with the new heads...
Thanks for the insight.
I'll be replacing injectors in a few weeks if the engine runs good with the new heads...
Thanks for the insight.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Should be fine. Make sure they're smooth.
I know @icanfixall talked about filling them flat.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
I know @icanfixall talked about filling them flat.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
