tbrumm
Full Access Member
As some of you know, the driver's side hg on my truck was seeping coolant at the rear of the head. Not much of a leak really, but annoying nonetheless. Russ (typ4) suggested trying the Irontite sealer in the blue lettered bottle, and that did seal up the small leak quickly. However, the water pump shaft seal has also started leaking out the weep hole, so now I need to replace the water pump. I know that leak is only going to get worse and the bearing will eventually fail, so I purchased a new Motorcraft PW-454 water pump. Since I am going to have the coolant system drained and the front serp. drive all torn down for the WP replacement anyway, I decided to go further and replace the HG's as well. I have been acquiring parts in advance of the project, but I am still a few weeks out from actually tearing into this, so bear with me. I thought I would begin to document this project as I go and take the opportunity to ask some questions of you guys as well. So, here we go!
I purchased one of these plastic "valve train parts organizers" to make sure I keep the VT parts in the correct order for re-installation. Figured I would put this thing in a big Rubbermaid container to keep the dirt off the oily VT parts. I have done the cardboard/drilled 2x4 thing in the past and wanted something better.
As Al would say, "in for the penny, in for the pound" so I decided to install heads studs rather than new head bolts, so I placed an order with R&D IDI Performance for the 7.3L ARP head stud kit. R&D has the best price on the studs by far ($435.00 shipped) but does not include the special moly torque lube. I just bought a few packets off of e-Bay.
I found a NOS OEM Ford "valve grind" gasket set for a good price. This set includes the new Valley Pan, HG's, exhaust manifold gaskets, valve stem seals, cdr grommet/seal, VC gaskets, tube of silicone sealer, etc. The date on the box is 1998 so I assume the HG's are the "latest and greatest" design????
Obviously, the threaded holes in the block for the head bolts will need to be cleaned in order to install the new studs, so I purchased a couple of tools to do that. I got a set of bore brushes for my cordless drill. I also bought the expensive ARP thread "CHASER". Should be the "right tool for the job" as it is not a TAP. It is supposed to "clean up" the threads and not "CUT" threads like a standard tap would.
While the heads are off, I am going to do the oil cooler reseal. The tube of the OC on my truck is badly rusted (darn midwest winter salt), so I may need to replace the tube. Once I get it off, I will sand blast and inspect and make the decision then. FarmerFrank sold me a spare tube, so I have that on hand just in case. I bought the OEM Ford header gaskets and o-rings for the reseal.
The dipstick tube on my truck is also badly rusted, so figured I would replace that as well while everything is torn down. Fortunately these parts are still available from Ford, and aren't horribly expensive.
I am using Mel's (Agnem) HG article on TDS and Tim's (The Warden) article on his 6.9 head stud install for my inspiration.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?6.9L%20Gasket%20and%20Turbo%20Install
http://www.dieselwarden.net/ford/project18.html
Thanks for reading! More to come.
I purchased one of these plastic "valve train parts organizers" to make sure I keep the VT parts in the correct order for re-installation. Figured I would put this thing in a big Rubbermaid container to keep the dirt off the oily VT parts. I have done the cardboard/drilled 2x4 thing in the past and wanted something better.
You must be registered for see images attach
As Al would say, "in for the penny, in for the pound" so I decided to install heads studs rather than new head bolts, so I placed an order with R&D IDI Performance for the 7.3L ARP head stud kit. R&D has the best price on the studs by far ($435.00 shipped) but does not include the special moly torque lube. I just bought a few packets off of e-Bay.
You must be registered for see images attach
I found a NOS OEM Ford "valve grind" gasket set for a good price. This set includes the new Valley Pan, HG's, exhaust manifold gaskets, valve stem seals, cdr grommet/seal, VC gaskets, tube of silicone sealer, etc. The date on the box is 1998 so I assume the HG's are the "latest and greatest" design????
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Obviously, the threaded holes in the block for the head bolts will need to be cleaned in order to install the new studs, so I purchased a couple of tools to do that. I got a set of bore brushes for my cordless drill. I also bought the expensive ARP thread "CHASER". Should be the "right tool for the job" as it is not a TAP. It is supposed to "clean up" the threads and not "CUT" threads like a standard tap would.
You must be registered for see images attach
While the heads are off, I am going to do the oil cooler reseal. The tube of the OC on my truck is badly rusted (darn midwest winter salt), so I may need to replace the tube. Once I get it off, I will sand blast and inspect and make the decision then. FarmerFrank sold me a spare tube, so I have that on hand just in case. I bought the OEM Ford header gaskets and o-rings for the reseal.
You must be registered for see images attach
The dipstick tube on my truck is also badly rusted, so figured I would replace that as well while everything is torn down. Fortunately these parts are still available from Ford, and aren't horribly expensive.
You must be registered for see images attach
I am using Mel's (Agnem) HG article on TDS and Tim's (The Warden) article on his 6.9 head stud install for my inspiration.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?6.9L%20Gasket%20and%20Turbo%20Install
http://www.dieselwarden.net/ford/project18.html
Thanks for reading! More to come.