7.3 Head Gasket Replacement-ARP Head Stud Install

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I have an aero turbine on my idi turbo and psd, they take the whistle away and quieter the truck down about 20%

 

[tbrumm]

So while everything was apart, I took the opportunity to mess around with "lengthening" the fan clutch spring in an effort to make it lock up at a lower temp. I got a good deal on a brand new fan clutch and was just going to put the new one in, but there really didn't seem to be anything wrong with the old one either. I thought if i broke the spring, I still had a new clutch available so I gave it a try. If I understand correctly, the "tab" on the spring that is held in the "pocket" with the rtv needs to be "shortened". Shortening up the spring tab "lengthens" the rest of the spring and deceases the spring tension. This allows the spring to act on the clutch shaft sooner and lock the fan up at lower temperature. Okay, so here is what I did:
I pried the spring tab out of the pocket.
That rtv also needs to be thoroughly cleaned out of there.

You must be registered for see images attach

You can see the spring tab is free from the pocket now.
I also cleaned the old rtv out of the pocket.

You must be registered for see images attach

I measured the spring tab before I started bending.

You must be registered for see images attach

I carefully shortened up the tab by relocating the bend with a pliers.
IIRC, I shorted the tab about 3/16" .

You must be registered for see images attach

I put the tab back in the pocket and secured it with fresh rtv.
I used Ultrablack because that is what I had on hand.

You must be registered for see images attach

I have no idea if this fan clutch spring mod was successful or not as the weather has been too cool right now and I haven't really worked the truck either. Thanks for looking.

 

[tbrumm]

Well, I ended up buying a Walker BTM. It is the longest (30") BTM with a 2-1/2" inlet and outlet. I know, it would be better if it were 3" or 4", but I was trying to keep the factory y-pipe and re-use the tail pipe. I ended up replacing the two intermediate pipes, and cut the tailpipe out of the original muffler so I could re-use the tail pipe. I found a 6" dia. "adjustable" muffler hanger on eBay, and that worked great and uses the factory muffler hanger brackets and isolators. Best part about that bracket though is that it is stainless steel. Maybe it will last longer than a year under there. I would say the BTM is just a little bit louder than the old original muffler, but does have a "deeper" sound to it. I have not had it out on the highway yet to see what in cab noise levels are, or if the installation has helped lower egt's. The new muffler certainly couldn't hurt as the old muffler was full of soot.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[icanfixall]

Great writeup and pics of the fan clutch mod. You make it look easy too. As for the muffler being full of soot.. That's what happens.They get very heavy too kind of like an old radiator that has plugged up with minerals. When I installed my Rodney Red 10 years ago it was all I could do removing the old copper core radiator by myself. I had to make several tries at it.finally ended up pinning it against the fan and got a lower hold on it to lift it out. Then it was so heavy it fell over on my head and chest till I could drop it. The new aluminum one was a one handed lift and install so much easier...

 

[tbrumm]

As for the muffler being full of soot.. That's what happens.They get very heavy too kind of like an old radiator that has plugged up with minerals.

Yeah, Gary - that old muffler was heavy!

 

[tbrumm]

Well, the BTM is slightly louder than the original muffler while cruising, but is definitely "throatier" when my foot is into the throttle - has a bit of a "whistle" then too. What is up with that? It does sound good though. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have lowered egt's, but maybe it will help very slightly with mileage.

 

[DaveBen]

The whistle is the turbo spinning. They make noise. I like it!

 

[tbrumm]

The whistle is the turbo spinning. They make noise. I like it!

If only I had a turbo!

 

[DaveBen]

Ok, now you have got ME!

 

[Agnem]

Nice job and great writeup! Congratulations.

 

[tbrumm]

Nice job and great writeup! Congratulations.

Thanks, Mel. And thanks for your original HG replacement write-up from way back when!

 

[riotwarrior]

You should copy paste that fan clutch mod into the tech section too....

 

[tbrumm]

Well, my truck is now a cold hearted mistress. One of the new heater hoses was weeping at a connection, so I got that fixed today. What I am more concerned with is the fact that, when I went to start the truck, the truck would fire and sputter a bit, but would not fire enough to start. I could smell fuel coming from the exhaust, so it seemed to be getting fuel and I don't think it was suddenly a case of air intrusion. It was about 10° out, and the WTS light stayed on about 14 sec. which is normal and would indicate the gp is working. Even, so I tooka test light and checked all gp's and all were fine. The truck would always start down to about 0° without being plugged in before, so I wonder what is different now? I normally plug it in on a timer when it gets below freezing anyway. It is just nice to know that when I get i n the thing after work on a cold night it will start even if not plugged in. Battery cables are in good shape, batteries are two year old Interstates, starter is new. My initial guess is that, even though the truck runs fine, the original IP is getting tired and is not building the pressure it needs to properly fire off really cold injectors.