4WD Question

[mu2bdriver]

I had to pull a wreck up an incline on wet grass and mud, locked the hubs, put it in 4 HI and eased it up. At first, both rear tires and the front right spun on the mud but the left front tire wasn't turning. After I got going, naturally, all 4 spun and up it went. I was under the impression that with the manual hubs locked and in 4WD, both front tires should spin like a limited slip rear end. I never looked at the tires spinning and never had problems getting where I wanted to be before but I was expecting to see the tire turning as it worked to get traction.
Right, wrong, pending maintenance, other?
Thanks in advance.

 

[rockbender]

Only if you've got a limited slip front differential. Otherwise, the front end is just like a regular (non LSD) rear end.

 

[riotwarrior]

4 wd with NON posi front and rear means 2 wheel drive in slippery conditions...tyre with least traction wins and spins...

4 wd with Posi rear non posi front means pseudo 3 wheel drive depending on how tight that rear posi is, in slippery conditions you get two rear tyres going and one front...however if one rear tyre gets tremendous traction and one is say super slick ice or mud...you may be back to 1 rear spin 1 front spin

4wd with posi front and rear means pseudo 4wd where all four wheels will bite all time, but again it's a clutch posi and can and will slip if there is enough of a traction difference.

4wd with LOCKER in front and LOCKER in rear means true 4 wheel drive...all four wheels turn, however this can be a brute to steer.

Best option, as usual most expensive, air lockers both front and rear, you can turn them on and off with flick of switch.

don't know what an air locker is? Google is your friend, don't know what detroit locker is? Google,

I've got a two lunch box lockers for my D60/10.25 don't know what lunch box lockers are google...

Wife's truck has a Detroit True Trac in front and a Posi in rear and for street drive/ occasional off road this is likely the best drivable option out there for getting all 4 wheels going! Oh...don't know a detroit true trac ...Google

Hope this helps it's JM2CW

Al

 

[RICHARD CRANIUM]

I've got a two lunch box lockers for my D60/10.25 don't know what lunch box lockers are google...

What lunch box lockers are you using for the 60/10.25 and are you happy with them?

 

[riotwarrior]

Spartan Front Lock rite rear...getting installed no idea how well work...

 

[mu2bdriver]

Awesome, thanks guys. I'll have to check the door jamb placard and the axle code. I'm just trying to narrow down whether I don't have it or have it and something needs repair.

Separately, I carried about 3 truckloads of green bucked logs this morning. To give you a comparison, this truck replaced my 2000 Ford Explorer which carried at least 100 cord of logs in the back with the rear seats down over 5 or 6 years. I only busted a rear quarter window once. Needless to say, this has been a huge upgrade.

 

[79jasper]

Was a factory option, but very very very rare. Iirc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[drinkypoo]

Was a factory option, but very very very rare. Iirc.

In the last conversation I was in on this someone looked in their book and found Dana 44 LSD but no Dana 50. So it seems most likely to have been available on non-super-cab F250...

 

[mu2bdriver]

My axle code is C5N. I decode that to be: Ford full float Sterling 10.25 4.10 (single rear wheel) with limited slip differential
I've read elsewhere that the 'N' denotes a limited slip front axle?

 

[franklin2]

Look at the code on the door jamb tag. Most axle codes with letters are limited slip. If it has a number it could be limited slip, you have to list the number and we can look to see if it is.

Don't get your hopes too high though, most of these trucks are pretty old now, and the factory LS clutches are usually worn and don't hold as well as they did new. So even if you do have a limited slip, it may not do you much good. If you want to see what you have, block the wheels, put the transfer case in neutral, and jack up one rear wheel, leaving the other one on the ground. Turn the wheel that is off the ground. If it's pretty hard to turn, the "limiting" part of the rearend is still working.

You can do the same with the front, and just leave the transfer case in 2wd to test the front. I will tell you if you have a limited slip front and it's still working, you already know it, or know something is up with your truck. I had a limited slip front under a f150, and it was a challenge to say the least to drive it in deep snow. The problem came when turning into a lane or off a main road to a side road. You pretty much have to stop or it won't turn and you end up in the ditch. Going straight though it's pretty much unstoppable. You can be going down a snowy road and move the steering wheel back and forth, and the front of the truck will do nothing, but the rear of the truck will be swaying from side side each time you turn the wheel. It's weird.