38 gallon rear tanks....

opusd2

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I was wondering if anyone was going to address the idea of sealing the inside of the tanks. It really does work. My brother and I go to the tractor salvage yards and pick up used tanks. Usually there is rust or whatever and there are ways of dealing with that, but instead of going into that I will say that a new tank just needs to be be etched/primed with the one material, and then comes the coating. Completely worth it.

Ok, a used tank is often assisted with a chain thrown into the tank and just shaken, rolled around, tossed, scraped as much loose stuff as possible out before getting mean. That I don't share. But then it's treated as clean after a good cleaner going through the tank. But a sealant can be used to make a rubber boat work for you. Kinda
 

opusd2

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But plastic tanks have their merit. Just not banging into something in the damn cold.
 

79jasper

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I was wondering if anyone was going to address the idea of sealing the inside of the tanks. It really does work. My brother and I go to the tractor salvage yards and pick up used tanks. Usually there is rust or whatever and there are ways of dealing with that, but instead of going into that I will say that a new tank just needs to be be etched/primed with the one material, and then comes the coating. Completely worth it.

Ok, a used tank is often assisted with a chain thrown into the tank and just shaken, rolled around, tossed, scraped as much loose stuff as possible out before getting mean. That I don't share. But then it's treated as clean after a good cleaner going through the tank. But a sealant can be used to make a rubber boat work for you. Kinda

Is there a "kit" you buy?
Or is it some top secret concoction that you're not willing to share?
I like the chain idea though.
What did you mean in the last sentence?
 

opusd2

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You can buy some cleaning kits, but like everything else I mix up my own batches of spirits and different wonderful stripping agents.
 

opusd2

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That last sentence made no since. I was half into a show on Alcatraz when I wrote it.
 

79jasper

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That last sentence made no since. I was half into a show on Alcatraz when I wrote it.
Must've been something said in the show. It fits. Pretty interesting stuff.

I'll have to see if I can find that stuff at Atwoods. It's been awhile since I saw it, but it was near the transfer tanks. Then read the ingredients and see what I can make.
 

1466IH

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I have been in the same boat many times with equipment I always use 1/3 muratic acid (used for cleaning concrete and can be bought at any hardware store) but be careful this stuff is pretty mean it eats concrete almost instanly and 2/3 water. Plug off drain or if it is an automotive tank there is no drain then fill to the top and let it set overnight. Drain the next day and thouroghly flush with water. The next step os very important! Coat the entire inside with wd40 or it will rust in hours just from humidity. The inside of the tank will be bright, shiny, mirror like steel. You will also find any leaks in the tank. They will be very visible from the outside no matter how small the hole. I have never used a sealer afterwards because everyone I have talked to says there is nothing good for diesel fuel
 

riotwarrior

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Hey...how bout create yer own thread.....tank sealants...instead of hijacking mine...;Poke

Just sayin.....
 

Dave Barbieri

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Hey...how bout create yer own thread.....tank sealants...instead of hijacking mine...;Poke

Just sayin.....

Just think, Al - one thread fits all! You're a visionary genius!! :rotflmao

Back in 2005, I bought a 38 gallon tank from Car Parts Wholesale. Delivered price was $180. It was for an 85/86 F350 gasser with auto trans. It's been in my truck for 8 years and I've never had issues with fuel contamination or pump clogging. I had the pump rebuilt a year ago and there was nothing odd about the insides. Had the tank cleaned and lined this past summer with the same results - nothing weird inside. Back when I did the tank swap, there was nothing going around the FTE website that warned of galvanized doom. :dunno I did the swap and went happily down the road. The only downside is that my gauge only works for the middle half of the tank. I go about 180 miles before it comes off Full, and after it hits Empty, I can go a LONG way. The swap has sure worked for me!
 

CSARebel916

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What about your sending unit? I really want to put a bigger tank in my CC, but I have to have my fuel gauge working. I saw one thread on here about someone who did lengthen theirs, but it wasn't much of a write up. Do you plan on doing anything for this issue??
 

riotwarrior

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What about your sending unit? I really want to put a bigger tank in my CC, but I have to have my fuel gauge working. I saw one thread on here about someone who did lengthen theirs, but it wasn't much of a write up. Do you plan on doing anything for this issue??

I'm thinking that I'll lengthen the arm on the float, I need to do some testing of throw and determine what I need from bottom to top of tank.

I"m sure I can fab up / mock up something and play with the rod length then get the fab done and test on my out of truck setup.

I'll show what I do in a pictutorial for sure!

Al
 

snicklas

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Another option I had thought of was the tank from an Excursion. They are 44 gallons, and poly. I love the distance I can run on mine, just don't like the bill to fill it all the way up. A excursion has the tank in the same location as the rear tank on the trucks.
 

Blind Driver2

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Another option I had thought of was the tank from an Excursion. They are 44 gallons, and poly. I love the distance I can run on mine, just don't like the bill to fill it all the way up. A excursion has the tank in the same location as the rear tank on the trucks.

Are the framerails of similar width?
 
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