1994 stock turbo rebuild help!

[tapdancewilly]

As you can see there is literally oil everywhere.

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[icanfixall]

Your not far from typ4 aka Russ. Not many members on this forum with more smarts around these turbos or trucks for that matter. I urge you to contact him. Have him look over what you have and give an honest assessment of what you have. Both Russ and Mel are honest as can be when it comes to customer satisfaction.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Oh *****, he has 2 threads going on the same thing, gonna be hard to keep track of.

Ask the MOds to delete the other thread, nothing important said there anyhow.

I copied and pasted this from the other thread. Gonna delete the other.
Looks like ya got a little work on your hands. It appears you have a K&N air filter, you don't need a new one, these are life time filters, just clean and re-oil. Change that top radiator hose ASAP, before it blows, bottom also. Take the truck to a car wash, and gentle spray all that crap off in the engine compartment, use some kind of degreaser where all the oil is. Looks like the PO used it for a Mud runner.

 

[OLDBULL8]

From the other thread.
Ok, so ya just got a 94 IDI. Your gonna rebuild the turbo. But why? Are the bearings froze up? Is there excessive play in the shaft? Does it show signs of scrubbing the side of the horn? Can you see lot of oil in it? Is there oil out the tail pipe? If the turbo is not spinning or is slow, it's possible the PO jacked up the IP (Injector Pump), that may be the cause of the smoke. If the turbo actually needs rebuilt, I wouldn't do anything else until it's back on, then see what might be wrong. Take a pic of the engine, post it on here. Could be the IP has been changed and it needs timing, IP timing is important. After 200K it needs to be re-timed anyhow.

 

[icanfixall]

Top radiater hose is leaking and there isn't anti freeze in the cooling system by the color of the rust at the top of the radiater hose connection. Also there is a missing bolt that holds down the turbo intake hat to the manifold. so oil vapor will flow out of there oiling up the complete top and bottom of your engine. find and install the bolt before you clean off the top of the engine with water. I'm betting thats your only big oil leak and no head gaskets are blown. You might really have a tight system after that problem is fixed. Russ could look it over and tell you whats needed easily. He is about 30 miles from you in Oregon. PM him.

 

[riotwarrior]

Hi and Welcome to the forum. Please understand what I'm about to say is not meant in any way negative however it is truth.

First, we understand the joy and pleasures that come from owning these trucks and how nice it is to be able to do the work one self. It is rewarding and comforting at the same time knowing you did it.

What you need to understand before jumping off the cliff of parts purchase is there are some important things to establish and know.

FIRST OFF.... READ the FAQ section THOROUGHLY then re read it, this way you will have a good basic understanding of these trucks from a theoretical knowledge.

SECOND OFF.... READ the TECH section THOROUGHLY then re read it, this way you will have an even better understanding of these trucks and how to do some of whats needed.

THIRDLY... READ the HALL OF SHAME section THOROUGHLY and learn where NOT to spend money!

Your enthusiasm for your truck is admirable and I like to see that in a young fellow such as yourself.

Take heed though that these trucks can be $$$$pendy if you are not wise young grasshopper and start tearing into stuff without a true grasp of all that's involved.

As previously mentioned, an open discussion with Typ4 would be in your very best interest. Sometimes, as much as we want to do something, having someone who has done it and does it well is better, for example rebuilding your turbo.

We are here and very willing to help you in anyway we can. The collective here far surpasses the general knowledge at the local dealerships and shops that service diesel trucks now a days, we specialize in these trucks pretty much like no other.

You have described your truck and mentioned it has been beaten. Maybe it's time to step back, get it down to a truck shop get it steamed off or pressure washed off thoroughly or do it yourself top to bottom front to back and get it clean and easy to see leaks and work on as well.

You mention leaks galore including HG how do you know the HG's are bad? What has brought you to this conclusion.

Please understand there is a lot going on, take the time to slow down, provide thorough and precise information and pictures too. We are much more able to assist with information when we have all the information.

Again welcome to OB read read read and once you have read lots, go back read more, there is tons here.

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Usually we feel on this forum that around 125,000 miles on the injecters and injection pump is about all we get. some get more but some get less. Replacing these parts is like a gas engine major tuneup. Now some ebay sellers and a few on this forum will tell you the G code injecters are what you want.. Not so. They are a detuned injecter made for emissions standards. My turbo engine ran them for years till I tried a set of Bb codes. It felt like adding 2 more cylinders to an already powerful idi. Russ also can sell injecters plus injection pumps plus he times these engines. nobody else in Oregon can or wil time these engines. This I know.

 

[tapdancewilly]

**** in already washed it down!
Where is the bolt missing?

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[riotwarrior]

**** in already washed it down!
Where is the bolt missing?

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that's not washed down yet...that's hosed down...

Missing bolt is in third picture in the sequence the thing that looks like a giant snail shaped HERSHEY kiss where the turbo blows into the intake manifold. See the hole there is a special bolt that holds that hershey kiss onto the engine. You may find it makes more power and smokes less with that bolt holding it in place. NO BOOST can be made from that!!!!

 

[typ4]

gary, try 130 miles.
Also those pics dont show me excessive oil, looks like my truck before I washed it. likely cdr hose and as said if the snail bolt has been gone that will hose down the entire engine bay with oil.

 

[tapdancewilly]

Haha no kidding.

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[tapdancewilly]

Any idea I could find that bolt? Besides a u-pull or auto wrecker

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[typ4]

3/8 x 16 x 2 1/2 inch long flange head bolt, if you cant find a flange head, use a regular bolt and a bonded neoprene flat washer, available at a good ace hardware.

 

[tapdancewilly]

Thanks! I will do that and let you all know if it fixed the oil leak!

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[OLDBULL8]

CAUTION With that bolt missing and you washed it down, you may have got a lot of water into the intake. DO NOT TRY AND START WITH THE STARTER, turn it over a full turn to see if it will hydrolock. A 15/16" socket will fit the damper pulley bolt, short extension and a breaker bar, turn it clockwise. if it locks up you will have to take the glow plugs out to relieve it.