You do not want them too low on the frame. Unlike most e pumps , these things do not like to be force fed from the tank, quite the opposite, if you get them low enough to where they can siphon from the tank, the positive fuel pressure on the suction will cause pump cavitation and the pump will cease to draw fuel. THey always to best at least slightly above the fuel level of the tank, a few feet is great, up in the engine compartment works great. I had mine up there for a few years till I went to two separate pumps so I could have a redundant system , one for each tank, then I had to get tricky, and I have one mounted below high on the frame for the rear stock tank and the one for the 150 gal bed tank is mounted above it high on the headache rack( I really like that one because I can see the trash separator bowl in my rear view mirror and I can tell when I need to clean it, which is good with a tank that size, I can go days, sometimes weeks in between fuel ing with that monster ), in this case both are before the selector valve and switchable via a dash switch.
Carrier Pump Group Buy
- Thread starter GenLightening
- Start date
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
so this would help quite a bit on keeping steady fuel? And i do not need to disconnect the mech pump?
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
You will need to bypass the stock pump. Or you can remove it and install a Chevy 454 blockoff plate. If you try to push fuel through the stock pump you risk rupturing the diaphragm and filling your block with fuel.
The factory mechanical pump in good working order doesn't need a boost, it'll put out like a fire hose. THe problem lies in when you work on the fuel system, or worse when you run out waiting too long to switch tanks , or have a clog and have to change a filter out on the road and have to crank and crank to re prime the system all by yourself. The mechanical setup doesn't always cooperate and many times you wind up with dead batteries, in very bad places, then just try to convice folks that the alternators in their toyotas are twice as big as the one on your truck trying to get a jump , good luck, all they see is those monster batts and an engine bigger than their whole car and they run away screaming, so you end up using one of your two calls to the AAA for the year for a lousy jump.
Another nice advantage these Carrier/Duralift pumps have is the pre filter screen/ water separator bowl. You can easily see when it needs cleaning and the screen catches a ton of stuff that would be clogging up your main filter so it extends your main filter life by an insane amount ( dang near too long, last one was good for so long, I finally changed it before going on a long trip for the heck of it and I had a time getting that thing off
Another nice advantage these Carrier/Duralift pumps have is the pre filter screen/ water separator bowl. You can easily see when it needs cleaning and the screen catches a ton of stuff that would be clogging up your main filter so it extends your main filter life by an insane amount ( dang near too long, last one was good for so long, I finally changed it before going on a long trip for the heck of it and I had a time getting that thing off
i might be going this way, tired of the holley going out on me.
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
The factory mechanical pump in good working order doesn't need a boost, it'll put out like a fire hose. THe problem lies in when you work on the fuel system, or worse when you run out waiting too long to switch tanks , or have a clog and have to change a filter out on the road and have to crank and crank to re prime the system all by yourself. The mechanical setup doesn't always cooperate and many times you wind up with dead batteries, in very bad places, then just try to convice folks that the alternators in their toyotas are twice as big as the one on your truck trying to get a jump , good luck, all they see is those monster batts and an engine bigger than their whole car and they run away screaming, so you end up using one of your two calls to the AAA for the year for a lousy jump.
Another nice advantage these Carrier/Duralift pumps have is the pre filter screen/ water separator bowl. You can easily see when it needs cleaning and the screen catches a ton of stuff that would be clogging up your main filter so it extends your main filter life by an insane amount ( dang near too long, last one was good for so long, I finally changed it before going on a long trip for the heck of it and I had a time getting that thing off
But when maxing the pump or adding a moose this isnt the case from what i read?
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
The factory mechanical pump in good working order doesn't need a boost, it'll put out like a fire hose. THe problem lies in when you work on the fuel system, or worse when you run out waiting too long to switch tanks , or have a clog and have to change a filter out on the road and have to crank and crank to re prime the system all by yourself. The mechanical setup doesn't always cooperate and many times you wind up with dead batteries, in very bad places, then just try to convice folks that the alternators in their toyotas are twice as big as the one on your truck trying to get a jump , good luck, all they see is those monster batts and an engine bigger than their whole car and they run away screaming, so you end up using one of your two calls to the AAA for the year for a lousy jump.
Another nice advantage these Carrier/Duralift pumps have is the pre filter screen/ water separator bowl. You can easily see when it needs cleaning and the screen catches a ton of stuff that would be clogging up your main filter so it extends your main filter life by an insane amount ( dang near too long, last one was good for so long, I finally changed it before going on a long trip for the heck of it and I had a time getting that thing off
But when maxing the pump or adding a moose this isnt the case from what i read?
The moose is a different critter and for that you're in the right place for a pump. They didn't match the factory pump to output enough to keep up with those critters, but a carrier /duralift pump puts out a bunch more.
badaceds650
Full Access Member
Just let me know when you're ready!
so anytime I want one what will it cost? or do i need to wait for a group buy? probably could find out but that would require me reading 10 pages to find out thanks.
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
They're $78.00/shipped and I can get them anytime you're ready. Just PM me.
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Im ready. PM sent.
SWS
SWS
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
thank you Doug.
does anyone have a good quality pressure regulator to recommend?
how will the pump handle being reduced down to approx half it's pressure of 4.5-5 psi?
i ask because:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34636&highlight=FACET+DURALIFT
"A rough way to remember it is about a 1 pound change results in about a quarter of a degree at idle."
so 6 lbs over 5 (with a max 11 psi from this pump) could roughly = 3/4 advanced of a degree at idle.
i don't want another degree of advance on top of a cold start with timing advance already on.she's already got enough rattle to 'er and id like to keep my glow plugs.
.
does anyone have a good quality pressure regulator to recommend?
how will the pump handle being reduced down to approx half it's pressure of 4.5-5 psi?
i ask because:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34636&highlight=FACET+DURALIFT
"A rough way to remember it is about a 1 pound change results in about a quarter of a degree at idle."
so 6 lbs over 5 (with a max 11 psi from this pump) could roughly = 3/4 advanced of a degree at idle.
i don't want another degree of advance on top of a cold start with timing advance already on.she's already got enough rattle to 'er and id like to keep my glow plugs.
.
Last edited:
My holley is getting long in the tooth and will just put out 2.5 to 3 psi at idle now. Forget it when getting on the throttle with the Moose IP/injectors.
I'll PM you when the time is right.
Heath
I'll PM you when the time is right.
Heath
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