Pulled heads little bit of carnage
- Thread starter Waystro
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Glow plug dented that pistong but another piston has both the intake and exhaust vles have hit it slightly.
Waystro
No Class
Thanks.
I'm no expert so sorry for the stupid questions.
So it looks like time for new Pistons?
so now I'm looking at a full rebuild.
I'm no expert so sorry for the stupid questions.
So it looks like time for new Pistons?
so now I'm looking at a full rebuild.
if it's not a Beru,it just wont do.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58883&d=1440457087
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58883&d=1440457087
Waystro
No Class
Yep pulled out all autolites that where swelled up one is still hanging out in the passenger head 
So the plan now is to get new piston and rings not planning on machining but that could change when I tear into it more. The cylinder bored look good no cracks or pitting
the heads have been off before. Fel Pro gaskets.
Oh yeah can't forget the rusted head bolts. Pics later.
So the plan now is to get new piston and rings not planning on machining but that could change when I tear into it more. The cylinder bored look good no cracks or pitting
the heads have been off before. Fel Pro gaskets.
Oh yeah can't forget the rusted head bolts. Pics later.
KnockKnock
Registered User
Hey man, looks like you've got some work ahead of you. I figured now would probably be an appropriate time to re-share THIS LINK in hopes you can use it to your advantage.
If you do have to machine, there's a guy on Dallas CL that has two sets, one .020 & another .040 over (hopefully you would only need the .020's), but he wants more $ than RockAuto... but I myself wouldn't be too good to point that out & try to use it to get 'em for even less - worth a try anyway.
Good luck with the build & as always, 'preciate the pics.
Waystro
No Class
Cool thanks for the link definitely seems like the best deal.Hey man, looks like you've got some work ahead of you. I figured now would probably be an appropriate time to re-share THIS LINK in hopes you can use it to your advantage.
If you do have to machine, there's a guy on Dallas CL that has two sets, one .020 & another .040 over (hopefully you would only need the .020's), but he wants more $ than RockAuto... but I myself wouldn't be too good to point that out & try to use it to get 'em for even less - worth a try anyway.
Good luck with the build & as always, 'preciate the pics.
Today I'll tear into the passenger head and see what's going on over there
Heads look like they may have been redone at some point.
Lots of pics to come.
Theres also a so a hypermax turbo kit up there too.
Waystro
No Class
stealth13777
Full Access Member
With valves kissing like that already, if you machine the heads or deck at all, it'll cause problems. Obviously ensuring the valves are in spec (they may not be) might help, but you should be looking at pistons with reduced height (what's the technical term?). They do exist. The alternative is to machine the Pistons, but since you are buying new anyway...
Personally I wouldn't put it back together even the way it sits knowing that has occurred.
On the flip side, none of that damage from glow plugs appears to be on the edge of the Pistons. You could theoretically take some off the Pistons and reuse, depending on how far you plan to go with this rebuild. If just re-honing and not boring, not a bad option. Budget/ build dependent.
Just my opinions.
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Personally I wouldn't put it back together even the way it sits knowing that has occurred.
On the flip side, none of that damage from glow plugs appears to be on the edge of the Pistons. You could theoretically take some off the Pistons and reuse, depending on how far you plan to go with this rebuild. If just re-honing and not boring, not a bad option. Budget/ build dependent.
Just my opinions.
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Waystro
No Class
The plan is to have the heads redone ie new valves etc
then I guess have the bores Rehoned stock size Pistons going back in. trying to keep this on a budget
Every part I remove will be replaced with new.
EDIT: if I have the bores honed and get stock Pistons will I still need to do the shorter Pistons? I'm thinking I'll be fine but then again I've never done anything of the scale before.
then I guess have the bores Rehoned stock size Pistons going back in. trying to keep this on a budget
Every part I remove will be replaced with new.
EDIT: if I have the bores honed and get stock Pistons will I still need to do the shorter Pistons? I'm thinking I'll be fine but then again I've never done anything of the scale before.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Taking 15 thousands off any piston is fine. Clearly you have some valves hitting for some reason. Might be the heads were done and someone did not recess the valves correctly so the hit.
stealth13777
Full Access Member
Just about everything I know was learned from guys on here (and much of it from icanfixall) during my build. Either the valve recess, or the heads/ deck have been cut. I forget the spec but the valves and pistons come awfully close when stock. Mess with any of the tolerances and they can kiss. Kiss much more than you had and that nice new engine is no more.
I would want to know I got more clearance from somewhere. If you can prove the valves were not set properly and fix that, you're golden. If not, gotta get it from somewhere, and the Pistons would be the next logical choice. In my motor, I was about six thousandths off from being comfortable, so I took ten thousandths off my Pistons. Iirc, there are replacement pistons out there that come already set up (not cut down) to be ten thousandths lower.
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Sorro71
Full Access Member
When I replaced the pistons on mine. I bought some 010 reduced height pistons that were 020 oversize from Endurance Power Products in Nebraska.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
These pistons have the anodised coating on the top. It reflects heat very well. A reduced height factory piston is commonly know as a low compression piston. The way they are made is the wrist pin is made into the piston 10 thousands higher up in the piston. So that drops the piston that 10 thousands in the bore at top dead center. It works very well. I used low compression pistons in my build but I also milled 14 thousands more off the tops. Then ceramic coated them. So essentially they are 24 thousands low in the bore now. Read my build as to what they ended up protruding up out of the cylinders when I was down. The pistons above appear to me Mahle factory pistons. That is the Mahle product number. The HAWR means Hard Anodised With Ring 20 thousands oversize. Hope this help others understand the secret codes some manufacturers place on parts like this. One you know it this no longer seems like rocket science.020
since you lowered the compression on your engine, what was the final compression ratio? Is there a noticeable power difference with lower compression?
