Self Flushing Coolant Line

[Scotty4]

Well she’s in there. Took a bit of searching locally to find the 1/2npt x 5/8 barb fittings Lowe’s was out so I caved and bought on Amazon. Thermostat area cleaned up well and everything fit nice. All coolant lines are now new and there is fresh coolant finally.

Lower hose is 8092 and upper is 8100 with the normal cooling and no A/C. Most connections had good amount of corrosion on them so I cleaned every pipe up. Color coordination will happen when I finally build my shop and can bring her inside.

Thanks everyone for the tips and help! Took about 8 hours total if I include flushing. Anyone in the Kitsap area need help with this I am more than happy to meet up.

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[Cubey]

I have thought about a coolant filter but in the RV, it would have to go on the frame rail somewhere. There's no room in the engine bay. But... then I could run hose to the water heater's heat exchanger for free hot water. I had a 78 Dodge Class B set up that way from the RV company. Saves on propane. Like tonight, I had to burn propane to take a shower. If engine coolant had been running through the heat exchanger, I would have already had hot water from driving through DFW today.

 

[Scotty4]

Sounds like you have a fix and just need to make it happen there @Cubey !

 

[dgr]

That would be a cool project

 

[Cubey]

Sounds like you have a fix and just need to make it happen there @Cubey !

Money is the object. It has to be run to the drivers side, just in front of the rear axle, with a 176" WB. Just running cheap hoses teed into the heater hoses would run at least $50 including tees and clamps. High quality hose would make it even more expensive. It has to have supply and return all that way.

 

[chillman88]

Money is the object. It has to be run to the drivers side, just in front of the rear axle, with a 176" WB. Just running cheap hoses teed into the heater hoses would run at least $50 including tees and clamps. High quality hose would make it even more expensive. It has to have supply and return all that way.

Might be able to find some pipe or something cheaper than hose. If I was going to do that I'd see how much a section of steel hydraulic line would cost. Sure it might be more expensive, but I'd want to check anyway. I wouldn't want quite that much rubber hose in the cooling system anyway, but that's just me.

 

[Scotty4]

Might be able to find some pipe or something cheaper than hose. If I was going to do that I'd see how much a section of steel hydraulic line would cost. Sure it might be more expensive, but I'd want to check anyway. I wouldn't want quite that much rubber hose in the cooling system anyway, but that's just me.

Would lose a good amount of heat in his system without insulation on pipes with a long run like that.

 

[chillman88]

Would lose a good amount of heat in his system without insulation on pipes with a long run like that.

True but the return line that would be a good thing. I'd imagine you'd still have a good bit of heat loss with uninsulated rubber hose. Not as much as steel but still.

 

[chillman88]

If you really wanted to be ballsy, you could run PEX with insulation over it I wouldn't recommend it but it would work

 

[Cubey]

If you really wanted to be ballsy, you could run PEX with insulation over it I wouldn't recommend it but it would work

PEX has a max working temp of 180F. Yeah, I already thought of that.

 

[chillman88]

PEX has a max working temp of 180F. Yeah, I already thought of that.

It's really that low? Wow. I know it's used for hot water service so I expected it to be rated a little higher. Not that I expect home hot water to be higher, just impressed by lack of "safety margin" on spec. I wonder what the max temp is if max working temp is 180.

 

[Reggie f250]

I work with pex a lot so ioked it up. Pex for radiant heating is good to 200 degrees at 80 psi. I think it might work.

 

[chillman88]

I work with pex a lot so ioked it up. Pex for radiant heating is good to 200 degrees at 80 psi. I think it might work.

Well it might but our cooling systems run over 200 regularly. It's not abnormal for these to be around 212 when pulling hard.

 

[Scotty4]

Well it might but our cooling systems run over 200 regularly. It's not abnormal for these to be around 212 when pulling hard.

Could just isolate the shower portion until ready to use. If one is hauling up a pass on a good incline, I would assume no one is showering.

 

[Cubey]

Could just isolate the shower portion until ready to use. If one is hauling up a pass on a good incline, I would assume no one is showering.

Too much hassle. I'd have to remember to turn off valves. Better off running hose that can handle the high temperatures than dealing with valves and pipe that might melt. Iron pipe would be more reliable. The hose size could be smaller than 5/8 to save money, since it would be branched off from the heater core lines, not a vital engine cooling section. The flow would be lower but it wouln't matter.