New to me 300sd

[tgatch]

Stock with a good transmission and good tune the car is good for 95 to 100 WHP. So at BEST you are looking at 10 to 15 HP gain over stock. Trust me I would LOVE to have 110HP versus the 71.5 HP my Mercedes Dynoed at a couple months ago. Heck, I'll be tickled with the stock HP numbers.

You can all you want, fact is to make noticeable gains beyond stock you have to spend big money to get a reworked injection pump. The MW pump with the stock plunger elements that are in it is at pretty close to max as it is. Now having said that, there is a member over at Schumans that is working on manufacturering larger plunger elements for the MW injection pump that is on the OM617.95x engine that could open the door to more power.

I just wanted to make sure that people were aware that the videos you posted were not the OM617.95x engine we are talking about in this thread.

 

[The Warden]

I just wanted to make sure that people were aware that the videos you posted were not the OM617.95x engine we are talking about in this thread.

I just want to concur with this statement. Those Finnish diesels are either OM603's or OM606's, which are aluminum-head 3.0l inline-6 engines. Complete different animal from the OM617.

It's possible to get more power out of a 617, but as tgatch pointed out, it isn't easy or cheap. An intercooler would probably be your best bang for the buck, and if you add a pyro and boost gauge, playing with the ALDA will help some as well. If you want to go much beyond that, IMHO it gets to the point of being more $$ than it's really worth, unless you're trying to make a statement...it'll get expensive and your fuel economy will take a nosedive. And, tweaking the ALDA some will make the engine wake up.

Also, you might want to check the throttle linkage. When I got my first M-B (an '85 123), I found out after about 3 months that pushing the pedal down all the way wasn't giving me full throttle...the hammer on the injector pump had another 1/8" or so to go. I adjusted the throttle linkage accordingly, and it was like night and day...you'd think that that little bit won't make a difference, but it does!

 

[tgatch]

Also, you might want to check the throttle linkage. When I got my first M-B (an '85 123), I found out after about 3 months that pushing the pedal down all the way wasn't giving me full throttle...the hammer on the injector pump had another 1/8" or so to go. I adjusted the throttle linkage accordingly, and it was like night and day...you'd think that that little bit won't make a difference, but it does!

X2 on that... I discovered the same thing with my 82 AFTER I laid down a monster 71.5 HP on the dyno.

 

[72f2504x4390]

Also, you might want to check the throttle linkage. When I got my first M-B (an '85 123), I found out after about 3 months that pushing the pedal down all the way wasn't giving me full throttle...the hammer on the injector pump had another 1/8" or so to go. I adjusted the throttle linkage accordingly, and it was like night and day...you'd think that that little bit won't make a difference, but it does!

Yup, mine was that way. Already fixed it. That was the first thing I looked at when it wasn't giving me much power and I saw it was linkage.


Ok, I see the term ALDA referenced quite a bit. What is it?


tgatch, you must work with a dyno or something huh?

 

[BENZIN]

atomospheric adjustment for the injector its on top of the injector pump it sorta resembles a mushroom .

 

[tgatch]

Yup, mine was that way. Already fixed it. That was the first thing I looked at when it wasn't giving me much power and I saw it was linkage.


Ok, I see the term ALDA referenced quite a bit. What is it?


tgatch, you must work with a dyno or something huh?

Here is a good read on working with the ALDA and related items such as the Banjo bolt on the back of the intake that clogs up pretty bad.

We have several Dyno Events per year hear with our diesel club. So far I am the only one to dyno diesel vehicles that weren't trucks. My wife's beetle and my Mercedes.

This year I will be doing a valve adjustment, installing gauges, checking my timing and making sure that my boost is where it is supposed to be. After that there are a few things I will look at doing to increase the fuel a little and advnce my timing some. I'd really like to get this thing up into triple digits on the rollers.

 

[72f2504x4390]

I am rebuilding my water pump. This is one of the few times when your water pump is bad that time is not a factor. So what the heck I will rebuild it myself. I am amazed that I got it apart without breaking the impeller, being cast iron.
The bearing is still good, but the shaft is pitted since they are integral shaft bearings I guess it will get a new bearing. I have never had a water pump apart before. Pretty simple. Probably won't save any money as the chain stores sell new replacements for $40-$50. Guessing the bearing is going to be $20+ and the seals probably $10. Hopefully its not too hard to get them.

 

[72f2504x4390]

This year I will be doing a valve adjustment, installing gauges, checking my timing and making sure that my boost is where it is supposed to be.

Hey what is the boost supposed to be at?

 

[The Warden]

Hey what is the boost supposed to be at?

The wastegate should limit it to about 15 psi. You can adjust it, although I wouldn't recommend putting too much more pressure in. These are IDI engines with a 21-1 compression ratio; IMHO too much more than 15 psi and you're looking at shortening the engine's lifespan.

Re: the water pump, any chance of taking some pictures of it apart? I'm curious to see...

 

[tgatch]

10 psi is where they were set from the factory. 15 psi is about the limit from the factory Garrett T3. 12psi is about it if you have the *** turbo. There are a few guys that have run 20+ PSI, and the head gasket SEEMS to be holding. There have been some really knowledgeable guys indicate that much over 15 psi is useless due to the fact the Stock injection pump just can't deliver enough fuel.

 

[72f2504x4390]

Yea, I don't really plan on doing any upping the boost. At least not now. Just want to know what it should be for troubleshooting if I need to when I get it back together.

Heres a photo of the pump apart. The flange will still need pressed off the shaft. Waiting to bring it to work to press that off.

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[72f2504x4390]

Went to the bearing shop. No dice. They had a bearing with the shaft 5/8" on both sides, but these have a larger diameter shaft on the pulley side then it steps down to 5/8" when it comes out of the flange. Thought about making a new flange. Just not worth it.
Autozone $43 for a new one. Looks just like the factory one, even has a cast impeller not sheet metal.

So I got it all back together after adjusting the valves, throttle linkage and changing the water pump.

Sure does run better. I should have adjusted the timing when I had it apart but I kind of forgot to.

Before I couldn't tell the turbo was kicking in, sure can now.

So, its running on the cool side. Ran it around the block twice and let it sit and idle for about 10 minutes and it was holding @ the mark just above the 40. I didn't change the thermostat so going to have to do that. Any recommendations for that? I know on the Ford they are a bit picky.

Still has the horrible slipping in first gear, as soon as the turbo kicks in it slips like crazy. If you just baby it till it gets in second then hammer it, it is fine. Very lazy going into gear also. Going to do some searching for some kind of write up about adjusting the bands. I know they are out there, I came across some when researching about benz's before I bought this one.

 

[72f2504x4390]

Hey thanks Warden for the hood hinge drain tip. It was full of crap.

Found a tag in the door cubby with the name, location and date of original sale. Funny. The car never left town. Sold right here in spokane. Out of the 10+ cars that I have cared to or been able to track the history of, this is the first sold here.

 

[tgatch]

When you get the thermostat make sure to get the 80*C one and make sure to get one that come with the correct gasket. The one I got from NAPA was not correct.

THIS GASKET is not correct:

You must be registered for see images

This gasket is correct:

You must be registered for see images attach

Note the bump in the gasket at about 5 o'clock in the picture. There is a small hole in the bump for some coolant bypass capability.

 

[72f2504x4390]

So after a bit of research, my car shows signs of the B2 piston problem in the trans. Sounds like its fairly simple to fix, but man the parts are not cheap. Probably going to rip it apart tonight. Tires go on it tomorrow, so the trans and oil pan is the only things keeping it off the road.